Which power wrapper do you guys recommend?

I'm looking for a quality unit and I assume that the wrapping machine would do the drying also. Is that correct?

I personally wrap all of my rods by hand from a system that I built myself. I never got the hang of using a power wrapper after 30+ years doing it without one. I'd suggest that you get a seperate rod dryer. You can make one very easily by purchasing an 11-18 rpm motor on line and using rollers for supports, made from casters for the bottom of chairs. If you'd like to see a picture of my setup, I'd be glad to send one to you.

If you have any more questions about making your own set up, just let me know.

Best regards.....George

Hi George! A picture would be great. My email is 4jlockaby@gmail.com.
So, it sounds like you are recommending a manual wrapper. That would be O.K. with me if that's the case. I just want to purchase what I need from the beginning and not buy something that I'll want to replace in a few months.
Thanks, Johnny

Johnny...

I'd be glad to do that for you. The power wrapper is good if you are building a ton of rods and then, it would be the best place to start. For me, I started with the manual set up and since I've used it for so many years, I find that I'm faster that way than fiddling with a power wrapper.

Take care.....George

I started with a manual wrapper and used it for the last six years, worked great. I bought the PacBay RW-3XL over the winter mainly because I wanted to have a rod lathe so I could turn on it and power wrap between split grips. It took me about a month to get used to it but no I find that I can wrap guides, do inlays, tiger wraps, etc. MUCH faster with the power wrapper. I use it on a low speed, but it allows me to have my hands free to manipulate thread if I need to. It is by no means a required tool, but I love mine.

If you decide to get one I would go with the RW-3XL that has the aluminum chuck, it is much better than the plastic chuck. This unit runs between $300-400 depending on when you can find a deal on one, it has a dryer built in, but I would still recommend having a seperate dryer so you can do mulitple rods.

A little off topic here, but does anyone know where I can find either Fuji MKSG #3 or #4, or Batson micro guides & about what they cost?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by weighinalimit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A little off topic here, but does anyone know where I can find either Fuji MKSG #3 or #4, or Batson micro guides & about what they cost?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Call Bob McCamey at Custom Tackle Supply. He has the Batson's in stock. I think they around $0.67/per guide. This is for the black stainless frames and H ring.

I have an Renzeti lathe with all the trimmins that i've had for 30 yrs now and i still wrap basically by hand. the lathe is multi purpose and i use it for shaping cork and fly seats and also drilling so it gets plenty of use.

Ron http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/mug1.gif http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/USA1.gif

I have 2 Clemens lathes with all the bells & whistles. One is nigh 30 yrs. old, the other is 7 yrs old. Both are wonderful. I'd say the Renzetti is the closest thing to it nowadays.

I discourage the drying of finish being located in the same area as the other stages of rodbuilding...you just can't keep that area clean enough !

If space is a problem, then you are forced to do all the steps in ther same area. SO, then, I'd save finishing for the days when there is no other work being done in the shop area.

I've evolved to doing all grip work outside ( even in winter) http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/cold1.gif on a Grizzly "Mini-lathe" to keep the dirty work out of the shop http://xs-s.com/zf/images/smile/emthup.gif

Before I bought my first lathe, I built a lot of rods on an old wooden pop crate with V-notches, & the thread running thru an old book with weight piled on top for tension adjustment http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/eyes.gif

I have a Jett mini-lathe that I use for turning my EVA. I still shape / sand my cork split rear grips by hand. If I am building a rod with a solid rear grip, then I'll chuck the handle and sand that on the Jett, too. I recently turned my first zebra wood insert for an 18 mm skeleton seat, as they don't readily offer inserts for that size. I followed Andy Dear's instructional DVD and it turned out really well. Thanks, Andy!

I have my lathe set up in the garage and my rod building shop is adjacent to that. I also agree that I will try not to do any more cork work in the shop than I have to. Those cork particles can get in your wet finish and make a mess. Once you find it after it dries, you just have to trim it out and apply another coat of finish.

George

Thanks for all the helpful information.
Johnny

I don't know how to post pictures on here, so please email me if you'd like to see what I use. Johnny...I already emailed them to you. Let me know if you have any questions.

George

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+1 http://xs-s.com/zf/images/smile/emthup.gif http://xs-s.com/zf/images/smile/emthup.gif

If I could justify it, I'd be all over the Renzetti. That is one hot looking wrapping machine, but realistically I don't "need" one. Just want one. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/eyes.gif

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TonyMc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I could justify it, I'd be all over the Renzetti. That is one hot looking wrapping machine, but realistically I don't "need" one. Just want one. http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/eyes.gif </TD></TR></TABLE>

Same here, that's why I bought the pac bay