Just rebuilt the carbs on my 1988 Evinrude 150XP...idles great...bogs down

The serial # is R1818087
Model # E150STLCCA

I followed the rebuild instructions to the T. Now I can't go more than about 9mph.

I've heard of a "Link and Sync" procedure from other posts. I'm sure this is probably what I need...but would like some input before I pursue taking it to a crooked boat mechanic here in the Dallas, Texas area.

So, it idles great, revs in idle great. But if you floor it (WOT), it will just bog down and die. I'm sure it is flooded.

Please advise, I have the Evinrude manual...but I don't seem to find anything about the linkage....maybe I have missed it.

PLEASE HELP! So much work....horrible results.

Did you check for spark on all 6 cylinders? http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/popcorn.gif

Well, I did an ohm test for every coil and every wire. I found one bad wire, replaced it before going to the lake.

but I didn't check any other way.


Modified by stakultexsun at 7:23 AM 8/31/2009

Just got off the phone with a service guy. He recommended I soak the carberuators in a vat or carburator cleaner.

I seem to recall the manual specifically saying...."don't do that". I especially know that you don't want to with any rubber parts.

Any input?

The only thing I had a little concern of was the float setting. I did make the float parallel with the bowl per the instructions, but that seemed "too easy".

To vat, or not to vat? That is the question.

If you have the oem service manual the syc and linc is in another section, just follow the instructions exactly and you'll be fine. The timing and the carbs must open at the same time, maybe the timing could be a little ahead, I mean just enough that you can't tell for sure, but not the other way around.

Jerry

No vat. Did you check float drop? Sync n link is in section 1 of the OMC manual for your motor. Make sure that all the linkages are in their holes properly and make sure that the throttle roller is touching the short embossed mark on the cam follower.

On these carbs my procedure was, a short soak, flush with water, dry with air hose, check all passages with rubbing alcohol(fit a large shringe with a small hose and flush passages), install jets and needle and seat, set float level with guage(bowl gasket off), set float drop. I might have left something out but you get the idea. The float level is parallel with the carb body. Make sure that the two small brass tubes in the venturis are touching the side of the venturi, you must not disturb these tubes they are loctited in place but can be moved. Make sure that all three carbs open at the same time and are closed at idle, then sync and link. If you don't have a stuck needle and seat you shouldn't have a flooding problem. Do you think you might have another problem that prompted you to think it was carburation?

Jerry

My other problem before this was idling really rough on a cold start...seeming to only be running on 2 or 4 cylinders (out of 6). Once it got warmed up....it would run pretty good, with the exception of dying every now and again when you put it in gear.

Also, approaching full throttle, it would some times bog down.

I could also see the middle carburator leaking fuel out of the bowl. So I figured, what the heck? I might as well rebuild when I remove them.

Did I mention, I found out afterward, that one of the spark plug wires was bad?

I actually did not do the 1 and 1/8" drop measurement for the floater, as I wouldn't even know how to adjust that?

Lastly, one of the needles was making a "clicking" sound as I lifted the float (while inverted). The movement didn't seem restricted...but the other 2 carbs did not make that noise!

I'm going to pull them off agin.

Thanks guys!