I just noticed this crack over the weekend and wanted to know the best way to fix it. It appears to be the weld that is cracked so maybe just removing it and re-welding will work. Anyone else dealt with this before?
Thanks for your help!
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I just noticed this crack over the weekend and wanted to know the best way to fix it. It appears to be the weld that is cracked so maybe just removing it and re-welding will work. Anyone else dealt with this before?
Thanks for your help!
I think they all crack there, mine is worse than that. Been considering welding a brace up to distribute the load a bit across the beams, there's a lot of concentrated stress there.
I enlarged all 3 pics to get a good look and I personally WOULD NOT run that boat again until you get that fixed. Yeah it might be fine but I'm seeing a totally failed weld that goes beyond just a stress crack in the paint. Serious question and I need you to be honest...what are your driving habits in rough water? Knowing people who have worked as welders for aluminum boat companies here in Arkansas they all say that if you're a "F**k it send it" driver you're probably going to be getting welds redone sooner than later. I owned a 2016 175txw for 7 years and it was an amazing budget boat but I knew it probably wouldn't hold up over time in some of the water I was bouncing around in and I was doing my best to baby it.
Thanks for the reply Michael - I talked to the boat mechanic I use and he's putting me in touch with a guy he uses to weld aluminum boats for his clients. He told me not to run it again until I get it rewelded.
Hey Chris - my mechanic told me the same thing. Thanks for the advice on this...and yes, I run the rough water at speed, trying to stay on top of them waves. Every now and then the spacing doesn't work out and we get a little air.Quote:
Originally Posted by Highcentered
Oh boy, when in doubt let that sharp V on the front half of the boat cut. The goal is to come back with everything (and everyone) unharmed and ready to immediately turn around and go back out. No fish or possible tournament winnings is worth a busted hull or a busted human. I know sometimes it's just about impossible but keep that ride as soft as possible. I had to throw the nose of my 175txw up in the air and do 17mph at 3000rpm more times than I care to count but it sure beats a busted weld. Just keep in mind that a Tracker IS NOT a pad boat or a performance hull so it needs to be driven like the type of boat it is. Not trying to be an a-hole. Just trying to pass along tips and tricks I've learned over the years from people I've talked to who work in the boat factories. And the guy that taught me how to drive a boat in rough water has also had a bad back since he was a teenager so keeping the ride soft was mandatory.Quote:
Originally Posted by TxBassin
Yeah, that driving style is a recipe for overstressing the boat. Every device has a limit. Good luck with the repair.Quote:
Originally Posted by TxBassin
Appreciate your comments, Tom, and thank you for your service!Quote:
Originally Posted by Goldstar225
I would take it to a dealership. My (2012) hull split wide open and was shipped back to the factory and fixed correctly. Yes, it was five years out of warranty but BPS fought for me and the boat was repaired at no charge. I was in BPS last week and they have a 2016 that is cracked and they are putting up a fight to have it repaired as well. Just a thought.
Thanks for the thought, Kenneth. I'll check with them and see what they say since I have a jack plate and that might change things a bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Topwater 2