921 integrated wiring - isolating electronics

Can anyone who has separated their electronics from their main cranking battery point me to a diagram or tell me which wires I need to isolate and hook to my dedicated electronics battery? I am thinking I should be able to remove the positive and negative wires from the system feeding the electronics and move it to the new electronics battery so I will have the capacity to run all day and not worry about killing my cranking battery. My Garmin bow graphs and black box currently are hooked to the fuse panel in the rod locker. The dash graph was powered using the available power supplied which I assume runs back to the fuse block.

Any help is appreciated.

you can run a 6g to 8g from the battery to the pos post that mounted near the fuse block to replace the existing 8g that if power end from the switch

Well I isolated the orange wire that is running all my electronics and I have 16 V to the electronics everything seems to be working fine. The part that is confusing me is if the power switch at the drivers seat panel is not on the electronics do not have power, and that same power switch turns the power on for all the other switches pumps etc. Pumps and acc are all still on 12v. Are there a bunch of relays and stuff that is allowing that drivers seat switch to control both circuits? what am I missing?

Not sure if this helps:
On my 919, When the main power switch in the bilge is Off, at least one bilge pump is hot.
All my electronics are run from the panel in the rod locker.
When the power switch on the drivers panel is off there is no power to anything, including the fuse panel in rod locker.
When the power switch on the drivers panel is on, there is power to the panel in the rod locker. The fuse panel is not split or switched differently. It is either HOT or NOT

There is a relay connected to the fuse panel in the rod locker, but I have no idea why there is a relay and not just a POS and NEG to switch.

the relay is there to isolate the power to the bottom half of the fuse block to prevent interference , the top half of the fish block is powered by the power switch, when the switch is on it kicks on the relay rrntergising the power from the 8g wire to the bottom half , you will need keep the factory wire connected to the wire going to the fuse panel under the console

see wiring diagrams
https://drewcraft.com/wp-content/upl...ing-page-7.pdf

https://drewcraft.com/wp-content/upl...ing-page-5.pdf

Are you planning to add a 2nd battery or just a small lithium for your electronics? If adding a 2nd battery, just connect it in parallel with the cranking battery and you'll not have any issues. I have 2 agms connected, that power 4x12" units, livescope and 360 and voltage never drops lower than 12.5 to any unit.

I actually had 2 24v in parallel and would run low on power by noon. I will be putting in a 80-100 ah 16v for all the electronics.