Mercury Optimax 225 has prop shaft move in and out of about 1mm

My outboard is a 2000 Optimax 225, serial number OT136125. The lower unit leaks oil. I found there's a fishing line wrapped around the shaft behind the prop. I checked the prop shaft movement, and it can move in and out of about 1mm. I put it in gear and it still moves. I'll need to replace the seals. Is that prop shaft movement normal? Should I replace the bearings in the bearing carrier, or can I just leave the whole bearing carrier and gears as is, and only replace the seals?
Thank you in advance.

This is not a do it your self job, high dollar special tools required as well as a special skill set

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Originally Posted by lpugh

This is not a do it your self job, high dollar special tools required as well as a special skill set

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Is this a sarcasm statement? I didn't ask if it's an easy job or a tough job from the way you said it. Lol. Please don't it personal.
I've seen videos of how the entire lower unit is rebuilt. It's not very hard in my opinion. For the tools, there're only 2 special tools are needed. I can even fabricate those tools. The rest is common tools.
I've done a lot to my motor, boat, and trailer, and I can gauge when I should do or not do. I just don't want to do more than needed to have it work reliably.

I haven't checked the total prop shaft movement but that's probably OK. Your manual will tell you the specs. That being said removing the carrier and replacing the seals aren't that difficult. Make sure they go back in the same way they came out. It's a double seal. I use a seal driver kit that is available at most tool outlets. I get mine from Clark Tools in Shawnee Ks.

movement is normal , there is a installation tool for the seals( thats 2 separate) to install them to the correct depth in the carrier.

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Originally Posted by JOE54

movement is normal , there is a installation tool for the seals( thats 2 separate) to install them to the correct depth in the carrier.

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This is correct... and those will set you back a bit. A factory service manual is also considered a necessity for the project.

Steve: Leon wasn't being sarcastic nor making it personal. He actually put it quite nicely, because here's the general standard:

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Originally Posted by EuropeanAM

We do not normally recommend gearcase repairs as a DIY item due to the number of specialty tools, and knowledge/skills required.

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That being said- Bearing carrier wrench, Carrier seal driver, Seal Kit, Service Manual, some 2-4-C and High-Perf gear lube should be what you'll need (other than hand tools).

Note: DON'T (PLEASE DON'T) rely on "tube" videos as your service guide. Many of them are just downright painful to watch because the folks "producing" them aren't overly worried about you picking up a bad habit or following something they did wrong.

I'd like to thank you for all of the suggestions.

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Originally Posted by stevechumo

Is this a sarcasm statement? I didn't ask if it's an easy job or a tough job from the way you said it. Lol. Please don't it personal.
I've seen videos of how the entire lower unit is rebuilt. It's not very hard in my opinion. For the tools, there're only 2 special tools are needed. I can even fabricate those tools. The rest is common tools.
I've done a lot to my motor, boat, and trailer, and I can gauge when I should do or not do. I just don't want to do more than needed to have it work reliably.

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I think you took this wrong way, not meant to be personal or demeaning in any way, I have no idea what skill level or experience you have, this is not the same as replacing axle or pinon seals on a light truck which most on these forums would not and should not attempt,
If I offended you, I do apologize for that.
First thing you should have is a service manual for your motor, procedures and tools required are in there, you be the judge.
Too many attempt this with poor results causing further damage. For the price of the tools you could have done
If you have the skill set to fabricate those tools, I would not consider you as the average do it you it yourselfer. :beers:
The shaft is common and normal.

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Originally Posted by lpugh

I think you took this wrong way, not meant to be personal or demeaning in any way, I have no idea what skill level or experience you have, this is not the same as replacing axle or pinon seals on a light truck which most on these forums would not and should not attempt,
If I offended you, I do apologize for that.
First thing you should have is a service manual for your motor, procedures and tools required are in there, you be the judge.
Too many attempt this with poor results causing further damage. For the price of the tools you could have done
If you have the skill set to fabricate those tools, I would not consider you as the average do it you it yourselfer. :beers:
The shaft is common and normal.

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I'm cool. Thanks Leon for the suggestion.

I couldn't find the outer seal with complete metal lip. I could only find the seal with half metal and half rubber exposed that's matched the part number. The new seal will sit deeper into the carrier. Is that ok to use the new seal with half metal and half rubber?

lips face out on rear seal , make sure it fits carrier ,never seen line cutter seal on 3.0 gearcase may have aftermarket carrier

Seals are set with a special driver that places them at precisely the correct depth. First seal faces LIP IN. Last seal faces LIP OUT.

Use only the correct (OEM) seals for best results.

Thank you.

I replaced the bearing carrier with the new seals and o-ring. The newer bearing carrier isn't brand new, but in good used condition. It has the bearings of 9 balls instead of 10 balls from my old carrier. I think it's from the Mercruiser. The propeller doesn't spin at neutral now as it used to spin at neutral before. Is that ok for it not to spin at neutral?

Are you positive it’s in neutral in the lower unit and shifter?

I can always spin my prop in neutral. I perform this test after installing the lower unit, I always remove it in neutral. This is part of lower unit test I read on here.

Forward: Prop locks counterclockwise
Neutral: Prop spins freely in both directions.
Reverse: Prop locks clockwise.

Steve- while there are SOME common components, you can't just start swapping out Sterndrive parts into your 3L Gearhousing. Fix it right if you want it to live.

I'm sorry if I didn't clarify a few things. The motor runs fine. It shifts forth and back normally. What I meant was at when it runs at idle at neutral, the prop doesn't spin automatically as it used to be. I can spin it by hand easily. I took it out for fishing last weekend and it ran fine.

The bearing carrier part number that I bought is listed the same as from Mercury marine. It's exactly the same inside out as from my old unit. The only difference is the bearings has 9 balls instead of 10 balls. Both have same dimensions :)

Steve- while the OD and propshaft OD may be the same, they are NOT the same part, and I would not recommend interchanging them as there are definite differences in the gearcases and setup between the sterndrive and your outboard.