Ford F150 owners - 2004-2011 rear wheel well liners available

http://www.ruggedliner.com/mis...n.pdf

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by mikesxpress &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote"> http://www.ruggedliner.com/mis...n.pdf </td></tr></table> http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/thumbsup2.gif Hey Mike--Who made those floor mats you had?

Rugged Ridge.

http://cdn.autoanything.com/images/p...a6adf186a58396

http://www.autoanything.com/fl....aspx


Modified by mikesxpress at 2:10 AM 8/26/2011

Hey Mike do you know how much they cost?

For the well liners, I'm still waiting for an on-line retailer to post them up. Should be the same as the GM version. $150.00

Thanks! http://www.bassboatcentral.com/smileys/thumbsup2.gif

Got a set for my 2011 EcoBoost and set for my son's EcoBoost . $105.00 off HWY17 TruckNAmerica.

http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/e...2011/Liner.jpg

Couple pointers to save a little time installing these.

1. You DO NOT need to take the wheel/tire off.

2. There is a drivers side and pass side. DS marking is barely legible on the top of the insert.

3. Trim the excess out of the two semi-drilled holes in the insert prior to installing.

4. Get the front of the insert (shock mount) inside the wheel well 1st and then work the back in with a flat tip till the lip pops inside.

5. I used clear silicone to seal inside the area between the insert and the truck well lip. That should keep road crud and salt from getting behind it?

6. A 2nd trim plug goes in thru the back of the liner on the passenger side. *Same place where the gas vent hose was R&R'd.

Tools:

Razor knife

Med flat tip screw driver

3/8" drive ratchet/ 4" extension/10mm socket

*Optional clear silicone.

I also got some 18" wide black rubber faced coveyor belting and finished the enclosure job by attaching it to the back of the liner and running it back above the shackle to the inside of the bumper. Based off my other trucks and what I can see on this one, the road crud/mud slings back and builds inside the cavity along the bed and inside the bumper then rust starts.