Results 1 to 16 of 16
  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Location
    Petaluma/California
    Posts
    29

    foam water log signs

    I am starting a restore of a 1985 Champion 19' Champ. while taking off the old transducer just to the right of the drain plug water came out when I removed the screws. there was no water in the bilge area and the area where the srews were is in the foam filled part that is sealed by fiberglass. Has onyone experienced this before? is the foam water logged? if so what is the fix, will it dry out does it need to be exposed, torn out and replaced? this is my first fiberglass restoration so any help is greatly appreciated.

  2. Member
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    19
    #2
    can you post some pictures?

  3. Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Hartselle Al.
    Posts
    250
    #3
    It will not dry out. I had to remove the top cap and dig out and replace the one I had but it was not a champ.

  4. Banned
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Posts
    490
    #4
    contact "grout-scout" on here. he has dealt with this

  5. Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Location
    Petaluma/California
    Posts
    29
    #5
    I will try to post some pics. But for now I drilled a couple of 1” holes and found the foam definitely has water in it. Question. If I let it bake in the sun will the foam dry out or is the only way to cut up some floor and pull it out?

  6. Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    371
    #6
    It won't dry out. Need to rip it out and replace it.
    2004 Tracker Avalanche with 150 Mercury XR6

  7. Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Location
    Petaluma/California
    Posts
    29
    #7
    I came to the conclusion that I going to pull the cap and get everything that needs to be redone done. Planning on investing some real money into this restore with all new electronics and new outboard. I don’t want to have the boat come up short on life after the investment. Thanks everyone for the input. I will be post the restore process as it goes.

  8. Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    371
    #8
    Look forward to seeing the progress!
    2004 Tracker Avalanche with 150 Mercury XR6

  9. Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Location
    Petaluma/California
    Posts
    29

  10. Member HaulinBass's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Springfield
    Posts
    6,323
    #10
    Subscribed
    Larry Eby, 2004 ChampioN 188 Elite/2003 200 Hp Vmax OX66
    "Romans 10:9"

  11. Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Highland, Illinois
    Posts
    2,738
    #11
    I'm in! There's several videos on youtube about mixing and pouring foam. I'm undecided about putting it back in.

  12. Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    371
    #12
    Definitely recommend putting the foam back in. It can add rigidity and support as well as reducing noise.
    2004 Tracker Avalanche with 150 Mercury XR6

  13. Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Chesterfield VA
    Posts
    3,402
    #13
    Glad to help in whatever way I can. Did a cap off restore on my 2000 191, so kinda been there, done that. Mine started with identifying a soft floor in the trolling battery compartment (aft port side) which led to cutting a section out to see what was up, which led to finding termites in the wood and foam, which led to more digging and finding a completely rotted out stringer and cross member, and the rest is history. We did find a fair bit of water in the lower foam filled areas between the stringers, not gallons but enough to make stuff wet and lead to rot over time. Mine had a rotted out transom that the previous owner had fixed by a shop with experience using seacast. They had also grounds out the knee braces and filled them with seacast, so I assume they were at least wet. So IDK if some of the moisture we found originally came from that. The boat shop I had help me out said in his experience over the years he would expect nearly every boat out there with foam filled areas to have moisture in there. In his mind, with changes in barometric pressure, humidity levels, condensation and what not, over time, moisture will get in.

    I thought very strongly about not putting foam back in, but he was concerned about it from a safety point of view. I figured if we sealed the areas well it wouldn't swamp if the boat got swamped, but he was not comfortable with that and worried that if it ever did get swamped for some reason, without foam, there is increased risk that it could go to the bottom. So we put foam back in. My boat is not kept in the water and after all this work, as long as I own it, will be very well maintained, so I guess I'm less worried.

    Everything we tore out was replaced with coosa, so now only the forward 1/3 to 1/4 of it has any wood in it, the rest is composite of one form or another. It's going to be a big job, but in the end, you will have a real gem.
    Kevin | 2000 Champion 19​1 | 2000 Yamaha OX66 200hp

  14. Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Location
    Petaluma/California
    Posts
    29
    #14
    Thanks for the good info. At this point the transom looks to be good but we will see once I get it open this weekend. More pics to follow.

  15. Member webertime's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Georgia, Vermont
    Posts
    254
    #15
    any updates?
    0G886873 Mercury Serial Number
    2000 Bass Cat Pantera III with 200 Merc

  16. Member
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Kiln Mississippi
    Posts
    837
    #16
    You can cut into the flotation pocket without pulling the cap to access aft flotation foam in a Champion. It is a thin skin in the bilge area to cut out. The foam still must be dug out, no avoiding that.