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  1. #1
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    Jul 2019
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    Petaluma/California
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    1985 champion Resto

    I am restoring a 1985 Champion bass boat. the pedestal seat bases are a flush mount and I don't know how they can be removed. Does anyone know how these bases are attached under the decks and how they can be removed? What they might be attached to under the deck?

  2. Member cart7's Avatar
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    Sep 2004
    Location
    Arnold, missouri
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    6,430
    #2
    You might want to post a pix. Most Champions of that vintage used the round wedge type base plate.

  3. Member
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    May 2015
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    Kiln Mississippi
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    837
    #3
    Mine was through bolted, and glued in with carpet installed over the top. I had to cut mine completely out. Since I'm doing a full restoration it was pretty painless. Here is a link to where I cut mine out. Scroll down the the "Aft Deck Redo" for a picture of the underside of the seat base.

    http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=934664&page=2

  4. Member
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    Jul 2019
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    Petaluma/California
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    #4
    Thanks guys. I actual found that the bases were set into a recess of the decks and had been filled with a semi playable Bondo to flush the deck. I was able to scrape out the filler and unscrew them and then they popped right out. I will post a pic later

  5. Member
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    Jul 2019
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    Petaluma/California
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    #5

    Resto Update

    been awhile since I posted an update. started on the trailer. long story short, new axel, springs with hardware and fenders. Will be painting gloss black with new Rims and new electrical. I have already popped the cap from the hull. once the trailer is complete I will lift off the cap and begin the complete restoration of the hull with all new stringers, transom and floor using coosa instead of plywood with new floatation foam. I will be making a few changes to the inside design by removing front live well, extending the front deck all the way back to console and adding a center rod locker. I also am hoping in changing the fuel tank to an under the floor belly tank instead of the 2 tanks located in the rear as I do not like that the factory fuel tanks completely cover the bilge area and pumps. has anyone changed to a belly tank in their boat?
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  6. Member
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    May 2015
    Location
    Kiln Mississippi
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    837
    #6
    My 171SC didn't have room for alternative fuel tank location. On the VL100 I looked hard at putting a belly tank in it. Space is really a premium in a narrow 15ft boat. I would need to fabricate a custom tank and loose a bit of volume to make it work. I have cut decks to remove aluminum tanks because of pin hole leaks for customers. Not fun. I only install poly fuel tanks. On the 171SC I bought a 27Gal, it is 1in too wide so when I get to replacing the last of the stringers they will be set just a little wider. Interesting thing, I'm adding a bow livewell tank since I crappie fish and your removing yours. Some view all the work that goes into a custom restoration as not worth it but We both obviously disagree. I'm trying to figure out how to mold rod tubes into the Champion now before I go any further. Visualizing a good design has not come as easy as usual so I'm stuck until I get it. 9ft jig poles are my go to length, I solved a inboard storage method in the VL100 I'm fishing in while restoring the other. I can carry 6 9ft rods. 2 11footers, 2 10 footers, and 4 9footers, will be built in to my 171SC. The saltwater guys mold PVC tubes in between the liner and hull. I've got to figure out a way. Keep posting your progress.

  7. Member
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    Jul 2019
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    Petaluma/California
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    #7
    made more progress on the the trailer this weekend. primed and painted the trailer. Installed new wiring harness and LED lights. most of the diamond plate for the steps are cut and fitted. next step will be to finish the steps and install new bunk boards. the spare tire mount was jacked up, so i cut off the lag plate and cut a small piece of the old axel and welded on as a step. the diamond plate will be painted red as will the wheels.
    IMG_3041.jpgIMG_3040.jpgIMG_3049.jpgIMG_3058.jpgIMG_3074.jpg

  8. Member
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    Apr 2012
    Location
    Pacific, Missouri
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    939
    #8
    DO NOT CHANGE FROM THE REAR TANK!!

    Many hours were spent by the Champion guys to make that hull one of the best performing bass boats ever made. A key to that performance was the balance and center of gravity, and that will be destroyed if the tank location and all that weight moves. Sorry for the all caps, but go to the champion board and read a little about the boat you have, and you will understand why moving the tank is a very very bad idea!!!

    good luck with the resto!

  9. Member
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    Jul 2019
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    Petaluma/California
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    #9

    Trailer Update

    Trailer rebuilding almost finished.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. Member
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    Jul 2019
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    Petaluma/California
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    #10
    Well, with some extra time on my hands, I started the tear down of the 85 184 champ. So far every time I take something off it shows me the idea of a complete rebuild using Coosa was the right decision. I am planning on having it down to just the hull shell by the end of April. this should put me in good shape to get it put back together by the end of summer. i will be updating often during the next month or so. As you see in the Pics the Costco Canopy worked great for hoisting the Front of the cap while the cherry picker took the majority of the weight in the back. I am sure OSHA would not approve, but a mans gotta do what a mans gotta do! LOL. with the cap off I recorded all the measurements of the floor in the back compartment. On the cap the front live well is going to be removed as the deck extension in the center will be the new rod locker. I plan on making some layout changes as to incorporate a built in cooler/live well heat ex-changer. i am also thinking of moving the batteries to a recess battery compartment in the center front of the rod locker to off set the weight distribution change of the motor on a jack plate. maybe just the 2 or 3 batteries for the trolling motor and leave the 2 small main start batteries in the back. i will have to do some figuring out of the weight distribution changes that will take place on this rebuild. i know the Coosa for transom. stringers and floor will weigh a little less than the plywood that is coming out did. the deck extension i plan on building in fiber glass with fiberglass hatch cover will put some weight back in. Has anyone had to experiment with weight changes in a rebuild? any help or advise with this is greatly appreciated as this is my first rebuild of a fiberglass boat.
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  11. Member crank68's Avatar
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    Mar 2011
    Location
    Kenly, NC
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    17,416
    #11
    Man that’s a ton of work !!!
    BULLET 20 XRD/250 Merc Sport XS
    www.ncboatguy.com

  12. Member
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    Jul 2019
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    Petaluma/California
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    #12

    and it continues!

    just like yesterday, found more proof I am making the right choices. got the rest of the deck up and found the starboard side stringer was completely rotted out 4FT back from the bow. multiple rotted spots in the decking. water in all the foam compartments. got most of the foam out. used an ice scrapper shovel to remove foam, that made quick work of it. looking forward to getting the stringers and transom out over the next week.
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  13. Member
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    Aug 2016
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    northeast maryland
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    #13
    wow good job finding all that rot and lots of work. keep at it man a year from now I cant wait to see her. are you gonna remove all that wood and put in fiberglass stringers if thats posssible. or do you think you can just lay glass over the wood.

  14. Member
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    Apr 2018
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    Windham,NH
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    #14
    That is so much time and work, the trailer came out awesome can't wait to see the boat finished.

  15. Member
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    Jul 2019
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    Petaluma/California
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    #15
    I am Planning on using Coosa board instead of wood. all the wood on this boat is going to be removed. I don't want to have to take it apart ever again. I will be bringing this boat up to date on options. New 175 HP motor, 4 new fish finders, Hydrolic jack plate, Garmin trolling motor, hydrolic steering, Hydro Wave. with all that money going into it I want to make sure the boat hull is absolutely done right for the rest of my days.

  16. Member
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    Jul 2019
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    Petaluma/California
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    #16

    She wants More, More, More!

    I have made some good progress in the last two weeks. Transom wood is out, stringers are out. Removing the transom was not to bad, but the stringers were not fun. When I first cut the stringers they were tough going with the sawzall. the wood was incredibly wet and would just jam up any blade i tried. once i cut them 2/3 of the way down i had to use a roto-hammer on just hammer with a dull chisel bit. the roto-hammer made things a lot easier. It was able to get under the wood and break the peanut butter bond to the hull with no hull damage. it also made things easier on removing the transom wood. with every cut was more proof of this all being necessary as water would pour out of the cuts. i will keep updating as often as i can.
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  17. Member
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    Jan 2012
    Location
    Houston
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    1,165
    #17
    I used an oscillating multi tool a lot in my restoration. Bi metal blades. Could make flush and plunge cuts easily. Looking great!
    90 Shadow 20' Mod V w/ 200 Merc - Total resto and loving it!
    Here's my build from cap-off to boat in the water.
    http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=336645

  18. Member
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    May 2007
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    Colonial Heights Virginia
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    #18
    +1 on oscillating tool..

  19. Member
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    Jul 2005
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    Norfolk Virginia
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    #19
    I have to commend you for taking on that project. For most folks that boat would be yard art!