Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    11

    Argh..thought it was fixed...

    Hey guys -- I've held off posting this question hoping I could find the answer with some research, reading other posts, etc. But I'm just confusing myself more and more.

    This is the ZX225 I posted on previously with a porpoise issue. Per the suggestions and advice here, I got it mostly corrected. I'm running a 27-M 3-blade Yamaha prop. I've had this boat about a month. First time out was on big water and it was moderately rough. Two passengers. It was porpoising a lot and prop would spin out when trying to drive in the rough stuff.

    I lowered the jack plate and motor is approx. 3.5 inches below pad. Tested on a local lake and it's been great. Very good hole shot, smooth riding at virtually any speed. I do have to have it trimmed down for the most part but, at higher RPMs/speeds I can trim up some and make it easier to steer/handle. But it always seemed tighter to steer than my previous boat/engine.

    Then I added a passenger and it's not great. The prop spins out in the hole if I try to really hit it and get on plane quickly. During turns, the prop will spin out. It doesn't porpoise like before so that's good. But it still feels like that motor is high...I can sort of hear the difference in the engine on plane with a passenger. When turning, there's way more of a rooster tail than I had on my old boat. And I'm guessing on rough water, I'm going to have the same issue of the prop tearing out too often. Which isn't going to work because I'm fishing big water way more often than small.

    So...I think I have to go with a 4-blade prop. Everyone I know on St. Clair/Great Lakes runs them. There must be a good reason. And I can't understand why the addition of a passenger would make it spin out? I'm just struggling to understand if with additional weight in the passenger seat, the stern wouldn't be lower in the water and thus less likely for the prop to spin out? It would seem the prop would only do that when losing contact with the water?

    Anyway...I'm looking at a Solar HR Titan 4, 14-23 or a 14-25. I'm not against taking the boat somewhere and letting someone set it up correctly, but I really have no idea where around here to do that. I'm in southern Michigan. There is D and R Sports in Kalamazoon and Lake Drive Marine in Coldwater...I believe Lake Drive is a Skeeter dealer. But I've never really heard of anyone having dealers like that address issues like this. Maybe it's common work for a dealer and I just don't realize?

    Anyway -- any advice would be greatly appreciated. Here's the options I'm looking at:

    1. Leave the 3-blade 27-M on and lower the jackplate again and test. I'm not sure if 4" below pad is getting to be too low...
    2. Order the 4-blade prop and hope it works...(this option makes me nervous of course because props aren't cheap)...
    3. Find an outlet and take the boat to them and have it done right once and for all. I like this but I don't know where to go and I paid cash for the boat so I don't have a pile of cash in reserve for this.
    4. Leave the 3-blade on and go with a good cav plate/foil. Not sure on this option as I have almost no experience with them.

    Thanks again guys.

  2. Pat Goff
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Seadrift TX
    Posts
    10,942
    #2
    5. None of the above.
    The more you learn about your boat the happier you’ll both be.
    When it comes to setting motor height you need to find out what too high and what too low is. You moved it once and hitting the panic button?

    Patient will be your challenge.
    So keep coming down until you lose speed at wfo.
    Now with that said here’s what you’re going to find out.
    That 27 is too much prop. 25 Yamaha M or 25 Merc Tempest will both give better all around results than the 27. I’ll wager at full throttle and trim you are probably at 5,200 or less rpms. It needs to be at least 5,600.

    Skeeter hulls need all the bow lift they can get, when they can compress air under the hull they will wake up and go. If the prop is too high it won’t lift.

    Let the boat tell you what it wants. If you’re at wfo and the boat is running flat, roostertail is higher than the motor cowling and it’s really stiff making a left turn you are too high.

    Or save your self some time and recruit a seasoned pilot to run it hard and see what it needs

    Internet diagnostics is tricky we get guys here who leave out details that you can’t see that would change everything.
    Pat Goff

    Two degrees from center
    of nowhere.
    Smithwick TX.

    [SIGPIC][<a href=http://www.bbcboards.net/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=583&dateline=1498828542/SIGPIC] target=_blank>http://www.bbcboards.net/image.php?t...828542/SIGPIC]</a>

  3. Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    11
    #3
    Thanks — I agree the 27 is too much, that’s why I’m inquiring about the 23 or 24. With the way this boat is used it’s a little different set of needs maybe. As I mentioned, I’m not opposed to having it looked at or set up...but not aware of any shops here that would be worth paying. With additional weight I. The boat, what causes the prop to spin free (aerate Or cavitate?)? It would seem logically it would do that with less weight I. The stern not more. To clarify...I’ve adjusted plate height 5 times. Settling on current height. But that was without passenger.

  4. Banned
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Skiatook, Oklahoma
    Posts
    7,952
    #4
    Always set up with a tournament load...two adults, full of fuel, and full of gear.

    You adjust your set up loaded and get it fine tuned to run to the hulls best performance possible. When your set up heavy then when you do run light it will be even better. If you set up light then add any weight your preference goes to crap.

  5. Pat Goff
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Seadrift TX
    Posts
    10,942
    #5
    Five or fifty. You gotta find what too low and too high is. Only way you find just right.

    Your prop wants to run in clean water
    Cavitation is from air disturbing the prop. If it’s over venting from the prop just cover them up with duct tape and see if it helps. If it works just jb weld the culprit hole and go fishing.

    Now just to make sure you’re not chasing ghosts. Do you have anything sticking in the water like a transducer that could be causing bubbles getting to the prop? Major culprit if you do.
    Pat Goff

    Two degrees from center
    of nowhere.
    Smithwick TX.

    [SIGPIC][<a href=http://www.bbcboards.net/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=583&dateline=1498828542/SIGPIC] target=_blank>http://www.bbcboards.net/image.php?t...828542/SIGPIC]</a>

  6. Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    11
    #6
    Just an update...prop change made huge difference. Solas 23 pitch, 4-blade. It's perfect now. Was on Lake St. Clair over the weekend. Normal pleasure boat chop and was able to control the bow with ease. Exactly what I was looking for. Never went total WOT but near to it was about 4900 RPM. Cruises on plane with zero porpoising at 20 mph. Top speed I saw was 68, again never went WOT but fairly close I'd say. Thanks for the advice guys, I appreciate the help. Not have one other issue to iron out (will start different thread) and hopefully I'm dialing it in.

  7. Pat Goff
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Seadrift TX
    Posts
    10,942
    #7
    Glad you’re happy.
    Pat Goff

    Two degrees from center
    of nowhere.
    Smithwick TX.

    [SIGPIC][<a href=http://www.bbcboards.net/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=583&dateline=1498828542/SIGPIC] target=_blank>http://www.bbcboards.net/image.php?t...828542/SIGPIC]</a>