Mercury xr6 part identification

[f150black0]

Hey guys can anyone identify this part?
The wire is chafed down to bare metal and I want to replace it.

Also I'm noticing some oil in the lower cowl I'm assuming I need to replace the check valves. Some help in this matter would be great. I'm assuming the chafed wire is what is causing a mild chirp at full rpm every once in a while

[OldTimer57]

Looks like a head temp sensor to me. Been a long time since I owned a 2.5 however... but I would bet that is it.

[jrh_67]

I agree! Looks like the head temp sensor that sets off the alarm when the engine overheats.

[Stubborn Hook]

Look at the carbs and front of the air box to see if there oil residue. If so you might need to replace the gaskets in the carbs. Good time to clean them, replace the needle valve and seats and readjust the floats too.

Pro-tip, do not mess with the idle mixture adjustment screws. If you must remove them, then take pictures of their positions and count how many turns in they are so you can return them to the exact settings. The idle mixture screws were balanced at the factory and it'll be next to impossible to re-adjust them to the optimum settings if you lose the settings.

[EuropeanAM]

If you would, please take a moment to review the Announcements at the top of the Forum, and be sure to provide the Required Info when posting. Thanks!

That wire may or may not be the cause of the "mild chirp" you mentioned. It would have to touch a metal/grounded object and short to ground in order to do that.

Oil level in oil tank is just as plausible an explanation. Are you running Mercury/Quicksilver Premium Plus oil?

[f150black0]

Hey guys thanks for the input. I put a pic of the serial number of the motor thinking that would be ok.
There was some oil residue on the carb mouths so I took off the attenatour box and noticed the 3 gaskets where toast. I'm also changing the oil check valve and gas check valve.(they are original so I figured it time)
I'm thinking to just extend the chafed wire so it stop chafing in the spot and reroute it.
Boat still runs great,5400 rpm and dojng 58 to 60 mph on 05 zx190.

I've only ran amsoil since I purchased the in 2010.

[Stubborn Hook]

After I rebuilt my leaky carbs (and replaced the toasted gaskets between the attenuator and carb mouths), the engine runs a lot smoother and has more power. It even sounds more mellow and not harsh and tinny like it was running lean before. I think those leaky gaskets were allowing air into the carbs which was leaning out the air/fuel mixture.

[JOE54]

[moetorola]

Hmmmm, would those three gaskets make that much a difference????? Mine look like crap also.

As far as that wire, that very well could have been the problem, I would reroute it and heat shrink it.

Goog call on those check valves, especially the one at the fuel and oil tee. Mine failed, luckily caught it before anything was damaged.

[OldTimer57]

Make that much difference? entirely possible. Removing that big plastic silencer on the front of the carbs will make it run lean. From experience...

[moetorola]

Make that much difference? entirely possible. Removing that big plastic silencer on the front of the carbs will make it run lean. From experience...

I realize that, being on that cover there is a warning decal that says "Do Not Run with out cover above idle may cause engine damage" in my engine.
I was more curious about the gaskets.

[JOE54]

could disturb a lil air flow to venturi if they are missing and cause different sound, bet repairing internals of carbs made the most diff on HOOKS mtr though

[moetorola]

could disturb a lil air flow to venturi if they are missing and cause different sound, bet repairing internals of carbs made the most diff on HOOKS mtr though