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89 champion DC redo
I guess I am supposed to run this thread here so I will redo. Long story short I ended up with a DC that had been in a tin building for about 12 years and before that was run pretty hard......we have an electric only league in my area and a lot of electric only lakes so we decided to make an epic electric bass rig. We are doing this with the options of installing a decent outboard if we do not enjoy the league. So far we have pretty much stripped the boat we are building a deck extension to front re doing live well and drain system. We just finished putting in a Ez-Troll tray in and started wet sanding to remove oxidation from boat. Boat has a few minor scratches but nothing real bad to be expected after 30 years. IMG_20190321_090800_146.jpg20190415_200523.jpg20190414_154456.jpgIMG_20190418_195501_738.jpg20190716_185740.jpg20190716_193757.jpg20190716_193848.jpg
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A few pics of the oxidation removal I'm sanding the boat with dry 600 and 800 we sanding with 1000 and 3000 then buffing with 3m 12and 3 buff system 20190414_174321.jpg20190418_140559.jpg
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A few things I noticed as we where stripping the boat was the lack of regard for safety and the use of just wow repair to some key areas of the boat. There are to many companies out here that have proven tourment tested products out here to have your rig buttered together with a thing more than a patch repair to get you thru the day. I know sometimes money is tight but the loss of life and money in your rig is not worth it sinking over poor quality products.
Get quality products to make your drains as safe as possible. This was to many hose clamps that had rusted to just dust beldge gummed all up from lack of maintenance. Hoses that where used that really should not have. 20190718_190948.jpg
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That's why I pulled the cap on my Champ, people would not believe some of the poor quality, lack of materials, short cuts, Etc. Champion did to such a fantastic boat design. If built right they would still be in business. All the Champ transoms I replaced rotted from a lack of glassing the aft cap seam to transom. Also every one I repaired had only 1 layer of chop on the inside of the transom, this allowed the engine mounting bolts to move cracking exposing the wood to moisture anytime the bilge is wet. I have a saying "Boston Whalers may be Over Priced but they are not Over Rated". Most of my 1996 Champ had only 1 layer of chop mat over 1/4" plywood under the cap. My boat is worth saving, all Champs are worth saving, just don't get in a rush. Keeping an eye on the prize keeps me going. I will have a completely plastic Champ when done. No wood at all! There is no Bass Boat built today I personally would take over my Champion. If you got a good hull from the start your blessed.
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And the cleaning never ends hahaaaa got the beldge and all the plumbing out cleaned the grease and old glue out shop vacs are so UNDERRATED....got the first coat of sealer on prolly 2 more coats but all in all looking 100% better. 20190718_190948.jpg20190718_190948.jpg20190725_190447.jpg
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I plan on gelcoating my Champ's bilge area with Duratec additive in gelcoat instead of wax. The wax molds later in life and it takes acetone soaked rags to clean it off, what a pain. The Duratec allows gelcoat to fully cure without setting up a problem later in the boats life. Also wipes clean, even years later. I was working on a Cobalt and their bilge looked as good as the deck. Very well finished.
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It's an epoxy based sealer so should be like glass when fishing
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Got the second coat of sealer done looking great still will need another coat for my liking 20190725_190452.jpg
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That's starting to change my mind. I agree, coverage is a little weak but Epoxy has never had good coverage. Must have something the do with the amount of pigments that can be added and still maintain the Epoxy's integrity.
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