Strapped down or not the stick type is gonna transmit every bump you hit on the road from trailer to motor. No way around that.
Both types are horribly misnamed. Both types work. Buy the type you want and like the best.
Strapped down or not the stick type is gonna transmit every bump you hit on the road from trailer to motor. No way around that.
Both types are horribly misnamed. Both types work. Buy the type you want and like the best.
This is what I have but haven't used it yet so I can't give any review for it.
https://www.toterite.com/store/p3/To...e_STR8_.html#/
Might have bought the DD26 if I knew about it at the time though. I do like the bump stop on the DD26 unit since it'll have some cushion but wish it had some way to minimize motor movement without steering clips, which are an extra $100!??????! Really curious how secure it is on the 115 w/o clips. Might give it a try also. I can't tell exactly how bulky the DD26 is but the Toterite is very compact.
Last edited by BoatNoobie; 07-23-2019 at 11:22 AM.
Any product that takes weight off the motor and transom and transfers it to the trailer would be the best. I don't get these "support" brackets that just wedge between the motor and jackplate. You still aren't supporting the transom and all that flexing on the highway can't be good. If it were me I'd go with one that connects to the trailer itself to keep the transom from flexing with the weight of the motor - https://www.cabelas.com/product/boat...3.uts?slotId=1
With a Transom Saver, The energy is transferred to the trailer, not the transom. Simple engineering, without anything supporting the lower units all the rotational force (moment force) acts on the transom bolts. Both types of products reduce this force however the bracket style allows the rotational force acting on the lower unit to transfer the energy back to the transom, and still doesn’t support 2/3 of the lower unit that is able to bounce around. By using the standard transom saver, you essentially remove this force from the equation by sending it down the transom saver, to the trailer itself. You will still have a force between the lower unit and the trailer but it removes the rotational force acting on the transom. Neither one will stop it completely.
1995 Ranger 481v
1995 Johnson Fast Strike 175hp
I think the transom takes 10 times more abuse on the water than what it does on the road. I use the motor mate, it has been umteen years since I used a transom saver that rest on the trailer.
2023 Puma STS
Motormate for me
I still think they're snake oil. Haven't seen the first offshore boats with one.
Sissies!
I love these dumbass threads that come up every year. Sticks attached to the trailer are junk!!!
My mechanic told me that a stick would eat up the steering shaft bearings and judging by the repair bill to replace them on a mercury that came on my ranger, I would say he is correct. The previous owner had one of those high dollar ones that he wanted to keep. The other thing is if anyone has ever had to replace a trim unit, they would realize that most of the weight is supported by the motor mounts and without the trim hooked up you can almost raise it with one hand.
2014 X19
2014 200 SHO
Chicken or the egg. It never stops.
Again, just another way to get money outta ya. Still no one has done any sort of test that proves they're worth while.
Ever watch an engine wiggle in rough water? Folks think the stresses of a little trailering is more compared to the amount of push that engine is putting on the transom whilst running 50+?
In that case, someone needs to make a transom saver for while the boat is in the water.
Its pure bullshit.
No problems since I discovered the ALD... Just wish they made it for more than Mercury Racing engines.
Every bump is going to get trasmited wether or not the stick type is used. If the trailer moves at all. The boat does too. Only way around that is if the boat isn't strapped down correctly and is bouncing, which would obviously be even a worse situation. Stick definitely helps take away any extra stress from motor on transoms, while trailering much better than motormate type in my opinion. However I feel like today's boats have transoms plenty strong enough to not be anything to worry about no matter which type you use.
Mike
Ranger Z520
Mercury 250 Pro XS
i haven't said anything yet because of the controversy , first fiberglass boat , used and didn't know a lot about them but now starting to learn a lot ! the pivot bushings on the intruder are loose and never saw that when looking at it and now i believe it was the trailer stick transom suport that caused that ! the boat is sliding front a bit and the pivot is taking all the mouvement , even when properly tyed down , maybe the pivoting bow roller has something to do with it too . 1997 stratos 219F 175 intruder .
So your saying the boat sitting on that same trailer isn't transmitting vibrations? I can't think of any support that will eliminate vibrations or the up and down movement of rough roads. I've used the traditional motor support, the Yamaha Wedge Pro Rule and now Motormate. When I bought my first Skeeter it came with the wedge. I didn't like it so I then went to the traditional support due to the Motormate wouldn't work out of the box with that engine. When I used the traditional support I also used the clips to help keep the motor from turning which was more trouble but seemed to work. With my new Skeeter it came with the Prorule type and it seemed to keep the motor from turning but I didn't like having to raise the motor so high to put it on. So I went with the Motormate because it's easy to use and seems to help keep the motor from turning but the motor will still bounce up and down and vibrate on rough roads which are a plenty where I live. Pick one of your choice and needs.
2021 Skeeter ZX225
2021 Yamaha SHO 225 VF225LA
I'm saying there are people who think because the boat is strapped to trailer and using a traditional stick that the motor is prone to less vibrations and such from the road. I personally think that is a farce. The trailer transmits just as much up that stick to a motor.