Wire Gauge Size Reduction to Graph Wires

[ChampionDon]

This may have been discussed previously, but I cannot find it.

Everyone talks about hooking the graph directly up to the battery and using large gauge wire and I do understand why.

But I never hear how one connect the graph wires to the heavier gauge wires?

Like going form 6-8-10 gauge to whatever gauge wire they use to hook to power.

What the best way to do this? The step down butt connectors seem like an option, but I wan to know what you all have done. Any suggestions

[MichAngler]

I soldered mine
Spread both ends just a little push together and wrap with a couple of extra strands for a tight fit
Cover with heat shrink
Note you will need a good soldering iron

[bobcoy]

Use a connecting block. Soldering is not the best connection for a vibration prone environment. Use marine grade wire for that reason also. Bob

[4Kboater]

I used these for 12 AWG from a power block to the graph lead.

https://www.grainger.com/product/4FA...!472455603095!

These do take a special 4 pong climping tool but I already own that.

[Wayne P.]

Use a connecting block. Soldering is not the best connection for a vibration prone environment. Use marine grade wire for that reason also. Bob

I use a junction box also:

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...ateway&sr=8-25

[Wallace]

+1 junction block . Never had problems since.

[bison2312]

Terminal Block here also

[tweakjr]

If using a crimp style butt splice, simply strip 2-3 times the normal length of the smaller wire, then fold it in half, or even thirds to increase the total diameter before crimping into the larger size.
Example, a 10-12 yellow splice will accommodate 10awg wire on one end. To also crimp 18 awg, you strip twice the amount of insulation, fold in half, it now is 14awg equivalent. Strip 3 times the amount of insulation, then fold over in thirds, now it is 12awg equivalent.
This is how we do it in the aerospace industry and it's perfectly acceptable.

Cheers,
Scott

[bobcoy]

This is also true. The trick is to properly crimp it. A good ratchet crimper or good experience crimping.

[Crestliner16]

I once folded the wires to connect my TM. There was an overload failure at that connection. One of the electronic techs,provided some step connectors. Luckily he gave me some to step up and down. He also gave me the seal insulation heat shrink that provides a good waterproof seal. I now use this on just about everything.

[ntslam]

I like to use non insulated butt connectors. This one here is for 10 ga wire. Just strip the 18ga long enough to go through both side of the butt connector. Then I take another piece of 10ga and stick in the other side of connector and crimp for added strength.


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[jjjaymmman]

Use a connecting block. Soldering is not the best connection for a vibration prone environment. Use marine grade wire for that reason also. Bob

Never heard of such a reason. Makes you wonder why we solder wires on military aircraft! They are exposed to the most austere conditions: vibrations, extreme hot and cold temperatures, moisture - salt/fresh, atmospheric pressure changes, wing flex, etc, etc! But with 20 years experience working on these things as an aviation technician/electrician, very seldom have I had to replace or fix a soldered connection.

But we had many repair for corroded or loose pins and screws on connecting blocks or cannon plugs.

[bobcoy]

I will not dispute your experience with aircraft. I have not worked on any. Just going by marine wiring documentation. I used solder connections on computer stuff for 40 years with no problems but different conditions. Your use in aircraft surprises me. Bob

[Diesel Pro]

Soldering can embrittle the wires I believe is the logic. Then again a nice glue heat shrink will hold the wires secure and minimize or prevent movement that could cause failure. I'm not afraid of a properly done and secured solder joint. I also use dielectric grease to prevent corrosion. And of course tinned (solder) wire for max corrosion protection.

[tweakjr]

Soldering on airframe wiring is not a standard, at least on the commercial side, aside from a very very select few applications.
I've been an A/C avionics technician since my career began in the 90's and it's been this way since for me, and we learned from some pretty old books and I've worked on some pretty old planes. Incidentally that's how I got my nickname. My mentor at the time was called tweak, and so I automatically became tweakjr. The older air force guys apparently called all the wire guys tweaks.
Marine wiring would certainly fall under the same standard practices.
Crimped connections over soldered due to vibration to mitigate cracked junctions.

[Bob B]

I think a GOOD crimp is the best connection .... the problem with both methods is that it is easy to get a cold solder joint or poor crimp connection that can cause problems later ..... get a GOOD ratchet or hydraulic crimper.
One of the reasons for using stranded tinned wire in marine applications is that solid wire is more susceptible to breaking due to vibration than stranded wire.

[D Johnson]

I have worked with wiring and a soldering iron since 1967. The first 21.5 a a Navy Aviation Electronics Technician and in computer and networking after that. A properly done solder conection is fine many people make cold solder joints and those are far from fine. I understand that crimping is the called for marine standard so now use that method on my boats because some day I might want to sell them. If you do solder besure to use a iron not a gun if the wiring is attached to electronics as a soldering gun has voltage on the tip and you can damage your electronics. I you must solder a good Western Union Splice and a good properly heated solder job then a marine heat shrink tubing will give you a good long lasting connection. Don ATC USN Retired.

[Bob B]

I have worked with wiring and a soldering iron since 1967. The first 21.5 a a Navy Aviation Electronics Technician and in computer and networking after that. A properly done solder conection is fine many people make cold solder joints and those are far from fine. I understand that crimping is the called for marine standard so now use that method on my boats because some day I might want to sell them. If you do solder besure to use a iron not a gun if the wiring is attached to electronics as a soldering gun has voltage on the tip and you can damage your electronics. I you must solder a good Western Union Splice and a good properly heated solder job then a marine heat shrink tubing will give you a good long lasting connection. Don ATC USN Retired.

Don, You started your electronics career the same year I did .... as an US Navy ETN ... communications which was followed by training on the early computers.
I too used to live and die with solder connections because I KNEW I could do a connection that would never fail .... I grudgingly moved over to the crimp side a few years ago.

I stayed 6 years ... not long enough to retire.

Thank you for your service.

[tweakjr]

I think a GOOD crimp is the best connection .... the problem with both methods is that it is easy to get a cold solder joint or poor crimp connection that can cause problems later ..... get a GOOD ratchet or hydraulic crimper.
One of the reasons for using stranded tinned wire in marine applications is that solid wire is more susceptible to breaking due to vibration than stranded wire.

You nailed it about the solid wire, which is what a stranded wire becomes once you solder it.