Getting to the Livewell valve - Flo rite cable replacement

[snookonfly]

My flo rite cable that allows me to switch from recirc to empty to auto has failed at the actuator. The plastic bolt piece that’s connected to the sheath has broken apart. Actuator doesn’t work so I need to replace the cable. Looks easy except for getting to the valve in the battery compartment/ bilge.

My my question is to folks who have done this before in a 2014 model Ranger or similar, what’s the easiest way to access the valve? Did you have to remove the battery charger? Or the polycarbonate that would hold the spare prop? Just don’t want to tear my boat apart with out an idea of what should be removed.

Any help would be awesome!

[mikesxpress]

You have to empty the center section of the service well to get into the transom section of the bilge where the valve is located. Lube the new cable with graphite suspended in light oil before installation. The oil should be dripping out the end.

[snookonfly]

Thanks for your response, Mikesxpress. Think there is anyway to hook up the cable without taking the charger out?

Also, Can I buy the graphite suspended in oil or is it something i have to make?

[mikesxpress]

David no shortcuts available. You have to empty the center service well area to get to the valve/cable. *Make sure the routing of the new cable allows for large loops with no binding. You should be able to move the wire in/out of the sheath by hand. It's not always installed that way by the factory.

I use a graphite suspended in oil that is an overhead conveyor line lubricant commonly found at high volume production powder coating shops. I see that something similar is available:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/3-in-one-3-...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

[Capw]

If your '14 is like my '17, you don't need to remove the charger. Just the board where the spare prop is stored. I have a battery there so I have to remove that also.

[snookonfly]

If your '14 is like my '17, you don't need to remove the charger. Just the board where the spare prop is stored. I have a battery there so I have to remove that also.

I think you are right but I ended up removing everything. I may have been able to get away with just removing the one board but pulling it all out gave me a lot more room to work with.

I did complete the repair! Thanks Mikexpress for the help! No shortcuts and used the oil until it came out the bottom of the cable.

I don’t feel like I’ll never have to do it again though. There has to be a better product for that valve. The plastic bolt at the end of the cable is a bad design for the user. Plus, I noticed that when securing the cable to the valve, it pinches the plastic stealth and the wire which makes it harder to move the actuator switch back and forth. Basically, it squeezes the plastic sheath enough to impede the wire. Too tight and it impedes the wire and too loose, the whole cable moves away from the valve. They should really improve the design. I’d pay more for a more permanent design so I don’t have to do it again.

Thanks again for the suggestions!

[mikesxpress]

There is a pocket for the bulbous end of the cable on the valve. Once it's placed in there and you tighten the clamp you shouldn't have any restrictive pressure on the wire. As far as not doing it again, that depends on frequency of use. Junk gets in that valve and it doesn't take long for it to act up. The carbon steel cable wicks water up inside the sheath from the bilge but the oil/graphite addition slows that down allot and keeps tge actuator moving freely so you don't break the knob off. This is a once a year maitence item for me.

As far as the design goes, it sucks!!! Phoenix has the best designed livewell system that requires minimal parts/maitence and does have that damn valve.