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  1. #1
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    200 OptiMax volt drop cranking/won’t start

    Twin 2003 200HP OptiMax: OT700626 & OT674383.

    Starboard motor cranks but won’t fire. Narrowed it down to loss of volts when cranking. Long read, sorry! Heard you guys were OptiMax here from THT, these motors/boat are new to me this year. Motors run really strongr, starboard one has given us constant issues so far though.


    Background: Month ago had starter short out, melted 4awg wire from solenoid relay to starter. Replaced starter and solenoid relay along with new wires. Ran 2 trips around 5hrs run time with no issues, next trip motor wouldn’t fire. Master relay was burned up (solid red wire), swapped tilt/trim relays and fired right up. Ran 2 more trips with no issues, 2nd trip we ran 50 miles offshore trolled for 6 hours. 47 miles back in, stopped inshore to bottom fish and the starboard motor started shaking as soon as we were at idle, alarm was intermittent beeping. Shut her down and wouldn’t start back up.


    Have 3 batteries in console, each motor has dedicated starting battery (800/1000). Motors are on BEP battery cluster with VSRs which charge house battery. 1awg wire is run from battery switches to terminal post in transom, a 4awg wire then runs from terminal post to solenoid on motor.


    Pressure at fuel/air valves on rails are spot on. Have massive drop in volts at starter when cranking, 6.5v. Traced back to terminal post and still only had 8v when cranking. Battery was 3 months old but failed load test, put new battery in today which helped, but still only getting 9.8v at terminal post. Solid beep at run which goes away, when cranking get intermittent beep which I assume is low volts. Solid 12.64v at battery/terminal post/starter when in run position.


    All connections/wire from battery to terminal post are new. Marine terminals/wire crimped with hydraulic crimpers. I did find the 4awg connection at the terminal post had melted, cut out bad section but wire seems to be in bad shape internally. Also found the red wire from solenoid coming into the relay was burned up. Plan on replacing relay harness and running new 4awg wires from terminal post to motor. I already cleaned all wires on solenoid and replaced it again with a new one. Was aftermarket had had small posts marked s and i, grounded the start/s post. Will need to replace with OEM solenoid.


    Not sure where else to look at this point, assume I must have a short/ground issue somewhere. I did have marina run DDT scan. Scan came back clean except: Fuel level 1 high voltage 75 STO? They said it was a short?



    Any ideas would be much appreciated, will try and upload video/pics.

    youtube link to video cranking, was by myself and needed to get creative
    In checking volts.




    Last edited by CH24OS; 07-12-2019 at 05:48 PM.

  2. Member lpugh's Avatar
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    #2
    Specifically what battery are using to crank the motor CCA and reserve capacity specs for that battery as well, Also need the state of charge and battery test results, forget that it is new, Everything starts with battery.
    Then Compression test and bore inspection
    The report back
    Thank You Leon Pugh

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    #3
    Genuine Mercury Marine starter, or aftermarket? Aftermarkets are junk IMHO.



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    #4
    Didn’t load test new battery, will check next trip to marina. It’s the right size though 1000/800. Will check compression next trip as well.

    Yea both solenoid and starter aftermarket (dbelectric). Should have went oem, went with those as delivery was quick.

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    #5
    Think aftermarket solenoid may be issue after reading up on them. “S” start terminal should be wired from key switch while “I” ignition should be left open while the solenoid is grounded to the motor by bolt. I have it wired completely wrong including grounding a positive terminal..will be purchasing oem only parts moving forward. Will post back if that’s the issue.

  6. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #6
    Make sure the starter's "Bumper" (rubber triangle piece that fits on the top cap of the starter) is in place, in good condition, AND PROPERLY INDEXED INTO THE ENGINE BLOCK when installed. This is critical- if improperly installed (wrong position), the starter will BIND and create a MASSIVE current draw.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

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    #7
    Wanted to update. Replaced solenoid, relay harness, wires, and starter today. Also replaced plugs as they were due anyway. Fired right up first crank. Will only be using oem parts moving forward.

    Any idea what that fuel level fault code is? I have pink/black wire and negative wire from fuel/oil harness wires to my sending unit on tank. Could these be issue? I don’t need them as track fuel used via smartcraft/Navico fuel sensor on nmea2000 network.

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    #8
    Pink/black wire has to be the ONLY wire connected to the fuel sender. Original stock PINK boat wire must be disconnected from the fuel sender.



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    #9
    Pink wire was cut out, only pink/black and black neutral wires are connected to sending unit. Think I am going to remove those as well as don’t use, just wanted to try and track down that fault code (fuel level 1 high voltage 75 STO)

  10. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #10
    You mentioned "black neutral". Let's clarify which one of the following that is (it CANNOT BE BOTH!):

    1. Black wire that terminates at the negative terminal of the battery (simply known as a "ground")

    2. Black w/Orange Stripe wire in the Fuel Harness (which is a 5V ground, if present).

    DO NOT, EVER intermix the two.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
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    #11
    It’s the black/orange wire spliced into black wire of sending unit.

    Back to square one again. Ran her today, starboard motor died again at idle after running strong. Heard a faint clanking sound, motor started shaking, intermittent alarm then died. Wouldn’t start. Pulled cowling at dock, starter solenoid isn’t firing. Starter gear doesn’t move or spin at all when cranking. Fuel pumps priming fine and good volts at solenoid/starter when cranking. In run position get normal start up beep.

    Seems starter shorted out, would that cause motor to shut down or is there some other issue? Maybe I installed wrong and didn’t get bumper in proper location? Very frustrating.

  12. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #12
    Starter shouldn't have caused engine to shut down... as starter shouldn't be functioning once the engine is running!

    Beyond that- the above description is a bit confusing, suggest going through things methodically, starting at the SOURCE: The Battery. Load test. Check connections. Printouts from Computer Diagnostic System so you know what that fault was. Be happy to review those if needed.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

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    #13
    Don - thank you. Have the print out from last scan, can I email it to you? Will start troubleshooting further tomorrow, not sure at this point. Starter has power but bendix won’t spin, but something caused motor to shut down and also fried a new starter.

  14. Member lpugh's Avatar
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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by EuropeanAM View Post
    Starter shouldn't have caused engine to shut down... as starter shouldn't be functioning once the engine is running!

    Beyond that- the above description is a bit confusing, suggest going through things methodically, starting at the SOURCE: The Battery. Load test. Check connections. Printouts from Computer Diagnostic System so you know what that fault was. Be happy to review those if needed.
    What is the voltage to the starter cable when the problem occurs (the one that goes from the starter mounted solonoid into the starter) if it is about the same as battery voltage you have high resistance in the starter. If no voltage or low voltage, you have high resistance in the circuit between that point and the battery, such as bad connections, master solonoid or slave solonoid.
    While starter is actually cranking the voltage would be about 10 to 11.5 volts depending on many variables.
    Voltage drop test from B+ battery post to the power point on the motor with key on and attempting to crank
    Voltage drop test from B+ battery post (not the connector attached to it) to the starter motor cable (the one that goes from the starter mounted solonoid into the starter) While it is in failure mode while attempting to crank. Should be less than 1 volt in these tests

    Do the same thing on the negative side to the starter case (ground to ground) again less than 1 volt
    Total drop from both test above should be below 1.5 volts

    Compression test at this point After it cranks normally
    Last edited by lpugh; 07-25-2019 at 09:19 AM.
    Thank You Leon Pugh

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    #15
    Ok got her running and believe found source of burning up starters. Noticed I have had a clanking sound only when in neutral, given I have replaced all wiring, figured ignition switch may be bad causing starter to engage which explains clanking sound in neutral. Ignition switch was sticking and not bouncing back after cranking, wasn’t an issue in gear due to neutral safety switch. Solenoid kept firing anytime in neutral engaging bendix/starter into flywheel shorting out the starter.. Also explains the start of all these issues when original starter shorted out. Replaced ignition switch and another new starter and she runs great. Clanking noise is gone and no issues at idle or shifting. Fingers crossed no more issues!

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    #16