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  1. Member
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    Jan 2005
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    #21
    Quote Originally Posted by OSUDVM View Post
    I have read about that but I have a 798 Humminbird and I cannot find the negative wire going to the power. My power cord is all in one with two little prongs on the end that the unit snaps in on the mounting base. So I cannot see how I can run a wire from the negative wire for the power down to the TM skeg. I would try that if I could isoalte the negative wire but I do not see any way I can do that. .
    What trolling motor do you have? On some, running the additional ground wire can cause a transducer and/or the unit to short out. "fixes" for interference are not all generic. The interference comes from the RF noise generated by the PWM board and the turning of the armature's against the brushes. Shunting the ground has been a way to try and eliminate the noise, but some trolling motors have that already done internally and trying to duplicate it on the outside could cause a short.
    John
    BBC Sponsor since 2006: (870) 773-3474
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  2. Member
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    Yantis, TX
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    #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Jonestrollingmotor View Post
    What trolling motor do you have? On some, running the additional ground wire can cause a transducer and/or the unit to short out. "fixes" for interference are not all generic. The interference comes from the RF noise generated by the PWM board and the turning of the armature's against the brushes. Shunting the ground has been a way to try and eliminate the noise, but some trolling motors have that already done internally and trying to duplicate it on the outside could cause a short.
    John
    I have an original MG Tour 81 thrust (1998 model), 36 volt system. The trolling motor shop in Baton Rouge years ago upgraded it to the digital version. It has been a workhorse. I do think the brushes and maybe armature are going bad and maybe that is enhancing the interference. I have had the interference from the beginning after installing the 798 Hummingbirds. I have been told you can no longer find parts for this TM, i.e., brushes, armature, etc. I would have those replaced if they were available.

  3. Member wmitch2's Avatar
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    Aug 2006
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    Fresno, Ca
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    4,326
    #23
    Try this, eliminated TM noise on my Raymarine's but should work on all electronics.

    https://www.amazon.com/BCQLI-Detacha...pparel&sr=8-46
    Ranger Boats / Mercury Motors
    G Loomis Rods / Shimano Reels
    Raymarine / MinnKota Ultrex
    Garmin / Live Scope Plus
    Pepper Jigs / Robo Worms
    Troll Bridge / V-T2 Vents


  4. Member
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    #24
    Quote Originally Posted by wmitch2 View Post
    Try this, eliminated TM noise on my Raymarine's but should work on all electronics.

    https://www.amazon.com/BCQLI-Detacha...pparel&sr=8-46
    Haven't seen those. Thanks for the insight. I guess you just clamp this onto the power wire/cord going to the graph?

  5. Member wmitch2's Avatar
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    #25
    Quote Originally Posted by OSUDVM View Post
    Haven't seen those. Thanks for the insight. I guess you just clamp this onto the power wire/cord going to the graph?
    Yes, within 6" of the graph. I put a Zip-Tie on the cable at each end to keep it from sliding either way.
    Ranger Boats / Mercury Motors
    G Loomis Rods / Shimano Reels
    Raymarine / MinnKota Ultrex
    Garmin / Live Scope Plus
    Pepper Jigs / Robo Worms
    Troll Bridge / V-T2 Vents


  6. Member
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    Jan 2005
    Location
    Texarkana
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    18,963
    #26
    Quote Originally Posted by OSUDVM View Post
    I have an original MG Tour 81 thrust (1998 model), 36 volt system. The trolling motor shop in Baton Rouge years ago upgraded it to the digital version. It has been a workhorse. I do think the brushes and maybe armature are going bad and maybe that is enhancing the interference. I have had the interference from the beginning after installing the 798 Hummingbirds. I have been told you can no longer find parts for this TM, i.e., brushes, armature, etc. I would have those replaced if they were available.
    If it is a footcontrolled Tour that has been converted to digital, I have the brushcard and brushes for the motor. I should either have, or be able to get the proper armature. The parts for the nondigital motor no longer exist.
    John
    BBC Sponsor since 2006: (870) 773-3474
    Mon - Thrs 8am - 5pm Central
    Friday 8am-12pm
    Garmin Certified Dealer and Installers: Call us for all your Garmin Electronics needs!
    ASC for: Garmin, Lowrance, Minnkota, Humminbird, and Powerpole.
    [SIGPIC] http://www.jonestrollingmotor.com
    [/SIGPIC]

  7. Member
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    Living the good life on Lake Hartwell, Fair Play, SC
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    #27
    My Ultrex has no interference. the new Lowrance claims zero interference. And don't think the pros don't have interference. I've seen many a TV episodes of the Elites and can clearly see some really bad interference on some of their screens. I was actually surprised to see it.
    2013 Allison XB-21 BasSport Pro
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    ProMax 30P

  8. Member
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    #28
    Quote Originally Posted by Jonestrollingmotor View Post
    If it is a footcontrolled Tour that has been converted to digital, I have the brushcard and brushes for the motor. I should either have, or be able to get the proper armature. The parts for the nondigital motor no longer exist.
    John
    Yes, it is foot controlled. I have sent you a PM.

  9. Member
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    #29
    Quote Originally Posted by Jonestrollingmotor View Post
    If it is a footcontrolled Tour that has been converted to digital, I have the brushcard and brushes for the motor. I should either have, or be able to get the proper armature. The parts for the nondigital motor no longer exist.
    John

    John, did you get my PM? If not, I can resend. Thanks

  10. Member
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    Jul 2007
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    Magnolia
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    388
    #30
    I replaced a 7" Lowrance Elite on my 36 volt Motorguide with a Humminbird 9" Helix. The Lowrance worked great for years but developed a "dead spot" in the graphics. I never had a problem with the Lowrance and TM interference. Took the boat out today for the first time with the 9" Humminbird up front. Right after I stepped on the Hot Foot, the screen went haywire. The depth line jumped from 4 feet to way over 40 feet. As soon as I took my foot off of the Hot Foot, the graph line "fell" back to normal. It does not seem to do this on higher TM speeds for some reason.

    There is no difference in the install of the older Lowrance's and the newer Humminbird. I used the same power source and stored the excess transducer cable under the front console cover, just like before. I took the new transducer off of the TM, stuck the TM in the water, held the transducer in the water, and stepped on the Hot Foot. Same interference.

    I can move the excess transducer cable a little bit, but I do not know what else to do. The TM plug wiring is also underneath the front console cover, which is where my power source for my Humminbird is.

    I have had numerous trolling motors with transducers mounted in them. This is the 1st time I have ever had any problem. Any input would be welcome.
    Be safe,
    Rayzor

    2001 Triton Tx-21
    2001 Mercury 225 EFI

  11. Member bombercraw's Avatar
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    Hanson, KY
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    714
    #31
    Quote Originally Posted by Rayzor View Post
    I replaced a 7" Lowrance Elite on my 36 volt Motorguide with a Humminbird 9" Helix. The Lowrance worked great for years but developed a "dead spot" in the graphics. I never had a problem with the Lowrance and TM interference. Took the boat out today for the first time with the 9" Humminbird up front. Right after I stepped on the Hot Foot, the screen went haywire. The depth line jumped from 4 feet to way over 40 feet. As soon as I took my foot off of the Hot Foot, the graph line "fell" back to normal. It does not seem to do this on higher TM speeds for some reason.

    There is no difference in the install of the older Lowrance's and the newer Humminbird. I used the same power source and stored the excess transducer cable under the front console cover, just like before. I took the new transducer off of the TM, stuck the TM in the water, held the transducer in the water, and stepped on the Hot Foot. Same interference.

    I can move the excess transducer cable a little bit, but I do not know what else to do. The TM plug wiring is also underneath the front console cover, which is where my power source for my Humminbird is.

    I have had numerous trolling motors with transducers mounted in them. This is the 1st time I have ever had any problem. Any input would be welcome.
    For starters, I hope you have better luck resolving this than I have. I have been fighting this issue for over a year now and although I have been able to reduce the interference some, it's still really bad when the trolling motor is running. There are many "potential" solutions and some have been able to totally eliminate this issue. I'm not that fortunate. Start with the simple things first like trying your different "Filter Settings" in the menu. Some have been luck enough to solve their problem 100% with this simple tweak. Didn't work for me however. One thing that helped my interference is to run a ground wire from the trolling motor housing and ground it to the trolling motor ground wire that runs from the trolling motor battery. You can do this by drilling a small hole in the TM skeg fin, or, like I did, sand a small bare spot on the side of the TM housing that will be directly under the hose clamp that holds the transducer onto the trolling motor and put your wire under that hose clamp so that it's touching the bare spot. This helped reduce quite a bit of RFI from my setup, but still not enough to totally eliminate. The second largest thing that helped is to NOT run your transducer cable along the trolling motor power and steering cables. Instead, run it down the trolling motor bracket to keep it away from the trolling motor power cables.

    Other things you can try: Figure 8 and zip tie your loose transducer cables and make sure they are are as far away as possible from your power cables in the bow. Also, you can obtain a choke from Humminbird that will install between your onboard charger and starting battery (you can test this by just unhooking your charger from the starting battery to see if it makes any difference before going to the trouble of obtaining the choke from HB). HB will most likely send this to your free of charge. You can also try to add some 77 mix ferrite rings to your transducer cables. Some people have seen this help the problem, but for me the ferrites had absolutely no affect on my problem.

    I have been able to eliminate maybe 60~70% of my RFI but that's about it. It is still terrible.

    The only other thing I have found that seems to help is to change the frequency i.e., going from mega to something less in your settings menu. This gets the HB off of the same frequency as the trolling motor, but unfortunately it also gives you less detail in your graph pics.

    I wish you the best of luck on this. I feel your pain. This is really frustrating. After we spend thousands of dollars on all this stuff, the expectation should be that it will work and not have these issues.

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