Hydraulic steering with divided splashwell (175 TXW / 190 TX/ 195 TXW)

[nujer99]

Anyone have any issue with hydraulic steering cylinder rod clearance in the divided splashwell? Baystar/SeaStar systems require 5" depth clearance and it looks like the Pro Team 175 TXW, 190 TXW don't have that with the dividers in the splashwell. However I do see the 195 TXW ships with the Baystar hydraulic steering system as part of its standard package. So it seems the dividers wont be an issue.

SeaStar support is telling me it won't work per their fitment specifications, but photos tell me otherwise.....

[R2Tracker]

I have the Baystar kit in my 2011 PT175 TF without a clearance issue, the dividers/braces are angled down away from the motor.

[nujer99]

Thanks! Does it look like you have the full 5 inches of depth from the center of the support rod or does the cylinder rod not drop that much when the motor is fully trimmed up?

[R2Tracker]

I honestly cant say, I now have a 4" jack plate which has obviously moved things around so I couldn't just go measure for you. I can tell you I had installed the hydraulic steering a couple months before I was able to get the jack plate installed and at that time the motor was mounted in the top hole ie motor in its lowest position, and I had no clearance issues.

[TahoeDust]

I honestly cant say, I now have a 4" jack plate which has obviously moved things around so I couldn't just go measure for you. I can tell you I had installed the hydraulic steering a couple months before I was able to get the jack plate installed and at that time the motor was mounted in the top hole ie motor in its lowest position, and I had no clearance issues.

I am thinking about pulling the trigger on a Baystar kit for my '06 175 tx. Are you happy with it? Did you keep the factory steering wheel? Did the install come out looking clean at the helm? Any tips for doing the job? Thanks and sorry to threadjack OP.

[nujer99]

No worries, would love to hear how things work out. I don't have a jackplate or plan to get one that is why I'm looking to see how folks make out with the divided splashwell with the motor trimmed up. Seems like R2Tracker didn't have an issue prior to his jackplate install so that's good to hear.

[R2Tracker]

I am thinking about pulling the trigger on a Baystar kit for my '06 175 tx. Are you happy with it? Did you keep the factory steering wheel? Did the install come out looking clean at the helm? Any tips for doing the job? Thanks and sorry to threadjack OP.

Yes I think it came out clean looking at the helm... Post #16 is my boat
http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread....=1#post9549474



I swapped out to a non directional steering wheel, with hydraulic steering the wheel wont necessarily be centered when the motor is straight... I also compounded this by installing an auto pilot at the same time which can turn the motor w/o turning the wheel. Also partly responsible for the decision to swap out to hydraulic, as the auto pilot for cable steer would have been $300 more than the hydraulic one, why not apply that $300 to the cost of hydraulic steering?

Tips for doing the job... not sure what your console is like but, the most major complication I had with the install...
Where the cable steer helm was mounted to my console was inset, and there was a steel brace molded into the plastic. I ended up cutting the 3" or whatever hole necessary for the Baystar helm through the center of the brace, and fabricated a large backing washer, as the 4 mounting studs ended up too close to the ledge created by the inset... Hopefully these pics can help explain.


This is the old cable helm resting in the hole I cut through its mounting bracket


The backing washer I made that sandwiches the console between it and the helm,oh and never mind the slippers, was working on this inside a tent, Minnesota, cold and snowy.

[TahoeDust]

Yes I think it came out clean looking at the helm... Post #16 is my boat
http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread....=1#post9549474



I swapped out to a non directional steering wheel, with hydraulic steering the wheel wont necessarily be centered when the motor is straight... I also compounded this by installing an auto pilot at the same time which can turn the motor w/o turning the wheel. Also partly responsible for the decision to swap out to hydraulic, as the auto pilot for cable steer would have been $300 more than the hydraulic one, why not apply that $300 to the cost of hydraulic steering?

Tips for doing the job... not sure what your console is like but, the most major complication I had with the install...
Where the cable steer helm was mounted to my console was inset, and there was a steel brace molded into the plastic. I ended up cutting the 3" or whatever hole necessary for the Baystar helm through the center of the brace, and fabricated a large backing washer, as the 4 mounting studs ended up too close to the ledge created by the inset... Hopefully these pics can help explain.


This is the old cable helm resting in the hole I cut through its mounting bracket


The backing washer I made that sandwiches the console between it and the helm,oh and never mind the slippers, was working on this inside a tent, Minnesota, cold and snowy.

Thanks for all the info! My helm looks exactly like yours, so I imagine I will have to cut that same brace. Does everything still feel sturdy with it cut? If you pull on the steering wheel when standing up from the helm seat, does it feel strong?

[R2Tracker]

The metal brace remains, I just cut a large hole in the center of it, which I guess does not leave much "meat" from about half way to the top of it. I never got into the habit of using the wheel to lift myself from the seat but it still feels quite sturdy, as sturdy as before I cant say. I used the boat for 1 summer with the stock steering before swapping to hydraulic during the off season, so my frame of reference to make a comparison is basically non existent. During installation I grasped the wheel, muscled it around a bit and seemed robust enough for me, I may have done this a few times each season, still have not had concern.

Another thing I should probably mention... the cable helm was mounted behind the inset in the console, with the short plastic "beauty ring" around it. The Baystar helm is larger in diameter than the inset, and maybe twice as thick as the beauty ring, as such it does place the wheel closer to the seat. The particular "destroyer" style wheel I purchased sticks out just a bit further than the stock wheel as well.

EDIT... I should also mention that I masked the opening and liberally coated the freshly cut raw steel brace with clear spray paint in hopes to ward off rust.