Battery issues with new electronics?

[JDBasser1984]

I have installed newer electronics. HDS 12 Carbon, HDS 7 gen 3, and an older HDS5 gen 2. The 12 and 7 are networked together through 3-D Structure scan and NEMA 2000.
The issue is I can not run them all very long without the 2 newer units flashing on and off, and sometimes shutting down all together. I assume this is a power issue?
Do I need a bigger battery or is mine just weak? It tests OK on tester, but it is a group 27 with 840 CCA and RCA of 1050? Group 31 is not that much more capacity. Could it be some other issue?

[jagsaw]

http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=989645

[jjjaymmman]

I have installed newer electronics. HDS 12 Carbon, HDS 7 gen 3, and an older HDS5 gen 2. The 12 and 7 are networked together through 3-D Structure scan and NEMA 2000.
The issue is I can not run them all very long without the 2 newer units flashing on and off, and sometimes shutting down all together. I assume this is a power issue?
Do I need a bigger battery or is mine just weak? It tests OK on tester, but it is a group 27 with 840 CCA and RCA of 1050? Group 31 is not that much more capacity. Could it be some other issue?

Your group 27 battery RCA is probably 105 minutes, not 1050 minutes. Maybe that was just a typo?

Look at the specs on a Northstar 31 AGM. Not only does it have a higher capacity, but it's also delivering 1150 CCA.

Running three graphs, network, and accessories like you are, a 31 AGM would be ideal (or two group 27s in parallel). Your wiring is another important aspect, I'm assuming you've already considered this so I won't go into those details. But ask it you're not sure.

[Ed R]

..

[prostaff1]

Your group 27 battery RCA is probably 105 minutes, not 1050 minutes. Maybe that was just a typo?

Look at the specs on a Northstar 31 AGM. Not only does it have a higher capacity, but it's also delivering 1150 CCA.

Running three graphs, network, and accessories like you are, a 31 AGM would be ideal (or two group 27s in parallel). Your wiring is another important aspect, I'm assuming you've already considered this so I won't go into those details. But ask it you're not sure.

This is good info!!!
FIRST...I would suggest making sure it is fully charged..then take it to an Advanced Auto store and they will test it FREE with the proper equipment...and give you a computer type printout showing all of the specs very accurately. You need to know this before any other decision.
I have personally run 4 screens for a long time and I use a Deka Marine Master 27 and have not had any issues. Agree the Grp 31's are probably better choices if you are in the decision mode and have the room for a bigger battery.
Tommy
Prostaff
Lowrance/Navico

[bandit53]

As mentioned by others, I also suspect your battery is insufficient for the task. The newer MFDs, from all manufacturers, are very sensitive to voltage variance. They go into a "self protect" by flashing and then shutting down. Even if you upgrade to a higher capacity battery, I suggest you consider your wiring. Adding a Blue Seas Fuse Box 5025 (contains pos and neg bars) will greatly help over using the existing wiring harness for power supply. Look thru posts on this forum as well as the sticky notes up top and you can get all the info you need for installing the BS box. If you go this route, I suggest you power all your electronics (HDS12, HDS7, HDS5, SS module, NEMA) from this box.

[prostaff1]

Exactly this is the system I use and have written about for years. 10Ga marine quality from battery to the Blue Sea...properly fused there and then 12 or 14 gauge from the block to each MFD.
I totally agree he should do that and reaffirm the battery is good quality..Good to go !!
Tommy
Prostaff
Lowrance/Navico

[JDBasser1984]

Thanks for the info. I have a Deka Marinemaster 27. Battery checks out good, I believe it could be a wiring issue, will work on upgrading to Blue sea box if necessary. I did just use the existing fuse block and an existing switch, I will check wires and amp draws and upgrade where necessary.
Thanks again.

[prostaff1]

Sounds like you may have it but my question is who checked out the battery and what method did they use to tell you it is aok? A multi meter will not do it properly.
Your comment on using the existing fuse blocks and a switch tells me a LOT about what could be an issue. Notorious for serious interruption of good clean power.
Tommy
Prostaff
Lowrance/Navico

[JDBasser1984]

The company I work for is a Deka dealer, we have a battery diagnostic like Advance Auto.

[jjjaymmman]

Check out this place for your wiring needs. They have just about everything you'll want. My only negative opinion about them is that shipping is not included (which is not that big of a deal, they ship quickly), so order everything you need at one time. The marine 10 AWG wire in this pic is high quality and easy to route up the side of the boat.

[prostaff1]

The company I work for is a Deka dealer, we have a battery diagnostic like Advance Auto.

Excellent. Most folks try to use a multimeter and as we know, that is of limited use. The Deka distributor in Nashville is a very good friend and I have been relying on him for many years for product and very good advice.
At this point I would agree with others, including the following post about wire...Thinking putting in the Blue Sea block and new wiring from the battery to the block my solve your issues.
I always have said your best friend when dealing with factory wiring and cheeeep switches is a good pair of side cutters :)) GL
Tommy
Prostaff
Lowrance/Navico

[Bummer]

Your group 27 battery RCA is probably 105 minutes, not 1050 minutes. Maybe that was just a typo?

Look at the specs on a Northstar 31 AGM. Not only does it have a higher capacity, but it's also delivering 1150 CCA.

Running three graphs, network, and accessories like you are, a 31 AGM would be ideal (or two group 27s in parallel). Your wiring is another important aspect, I'm assuming you've already considered this so I won't go into those details. But ask it you're not sure.

I second this, I bought a Northstar G31 run 4 lives all day with live well no issues this battery is a beast.

[moetorola]

Add voltage overlay to your graphs. (Leave them all on).
Then with graphs on, take a DVM DC voltmeter to the battery.

The difference between you what your graph/s say and the voltmeter is your voltage drop. I try to keep it less than half a volt (0.5v). If excessively more than that, upgrade your wiring.

If you do not have a DVM, you can judge by the Voltage overlay alone if there is a voltage issue. But not necessarily if it is battery or wire related.


NOTE: Every boat owner should own a DVM in my opinion, and learn to use it!