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  1. #1
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    Mercury 200 optimax won’t turn over

    Serial number ot371251
    2001 Mercury optimax 200. It makes a click when you turn it over but starter only barely moves. Cable is not hot and is a new cable. Battery is one of the recommended batteries and was bought new in December. Has 12.9 v according to my fishfinder and only drops to 12.8 when trying to crank. Any ideas as to whether it’s the starter or the solenoid ?

  2. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #2
    "but starter only barely moves". Please define this a little so we know if the shaft is turning or not.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

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    #3
    It spun enough to extend the gear up and mesh that was it

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    #4
    Load test battery
    Check ALL cables for internal corrosion
    Check ALL electrical connections



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    #5
    Battery and connections are good tested prior to post

  6. Member lpugh's Avatar
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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by agdave112 View Post
    Battery and connections are good tested prior to post
    How were they checked, looking ok does not mean they are ok. Voltage drop test are in order, which would verify root cause of no crank
    Thank You Leon Pugh

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    #7
    No drop really .1 v drop. It’s basically a new mercury exide battery. Boat has been run 2-3 days a week for the past ten years. Swapped out a corroded starter cable in January.

  8. Member lpugh's Avatar
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    #8
    Is the click coming from the slave solonoid, main starter solonoid or else where?

    1.What is the voltage on the starter cable, the one that goes from the main solonoid in to the starter motor while attempting to crank with negative test lead on the battery negative post

    2.What is the voltage at this same location with the negative test lead on the battery positive while attempting to crank

    3.What are the actual test results from a battery test, state of charge and CCA

    4.What Is the CCA and reserve minutes or AH rating on this battery


    Do not use the graphs for any voltage readings at this time

    Accurate answers to this questions, will probably nail it down
    Last edited by lpugh; 06-13-2019 at 07:29 PM.
    Thank You Leon Pugh

  9. Member lpugh's Avatar
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by agdave112 View Post
    No drop really .1 v drop. It’s basically a new mercury exide battery. Boat has been run 2-3 days a week for the past ten years. Swapped out a corroded starter cable in January.
    .1 from where to where, several circuits and connection involved. Specific details are very important since it is not setting in front of those that are willing to assist
    This does not mean it is good or the correct battery for your application
    Thank You Leon Pugh

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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by agdave112 View Post
    Battery and connections are good tested prior to post
    The CLICKING noise is saying otherwise...…...



  11. Member
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    #11
    Singular click coming from solenoid. 12.9 v at solenoid, 12.9 at starter when key turned. New starter ordered. Should be here today. Neighbor brought over a solenoid from a working motor and same problem still.

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    #12
    Battery is a good exide megacycle xmc 31

  13. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by agdave112 View Post
    Singular click coming from solenoid. 12.9 v at solenoid, 12.9 at starter when key turned. New starter ordered. Should be here today. Neighbor brought over a solenoid from a working motor and same problem still.
    Dave- "12.9V at the starter" does not tell us if that is on the SUPPLY terminal, the "S" or Starter Activation Terminal, or the Solenoid OUTPUT (or Load) Terminal, which drives the starter motor. Each could mean something completely different.

    The XMC-31 will work, if it meets it's advertised capacity in a LOAD test. Strongly recommend using CLAMP style terminals on the posts, and then make your connections to those (engine cables FIRST, remaining lugs largest to smallest, finish off with a Stainless Locknut). Avoid the threaded posts built into the battery (ok to put non-essential accessories there, but keep the ENGINE and CHARGER cables on the clamp-style posts, for sure).


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

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    #14
    In addition to what Don said , could it be Brush corrosion in the starter maybe? Did you try giving a couple sharp taps with a screwdriver handle to see if the starter would spin then?

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    #15
    Tried the tapping on the starter with no luck. Cable on the bottom of the starter appeared to get hot at some point and the rubber cover is cracked.

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    #16
    Bad starter. New one arrived Put it on cranks right up. Thanks for suggestions.

  17. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by agdave112 View Post
    Bad starter. New one arrived Put it on cranks right up. Thanks for suggestions.