Thread: Gas Gauge issue

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  1. #1
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    Exclamation Gas Gauge issue

    my 2012 txw 175, when I fill up with gas it shows full but after I burn about 7 gallons out of it, the gauge goes all the way to Empty and stays there so I never know how much gas is actually in the tank. Any ideas?

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    #2
    My 185 had a saturated cork float, replaced it 8 years ago and it started working. It quit again last year but I haven't gotten around to checking it. I usually raise the rear lid and do a visual check of the tank level. I get 4-5 trips out of a tank.

  3. Member gatorglenn's Avatar
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    #3
    This is normal. After about half tank the fuel gauge will just fall off to empty. My new aluminum tank has a automotive sending uint in it. So it’s pretty accurate throughout the tank.

    Other than switching the sending uint. You have what you have.

    Have an adventure everyday !
    2006 PT 175 TX 60 HP.

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    #4
    how hard is the sending unit to replace and how much you think one costs to replace?

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    #5
    The OEM sending unit is most likely a swing arm type, cheap at about $30 new retail. The boat manufacturers are paying much much less in quantity. The swing arm assembly only cost about $15. I wouldn't go back with that type because they fail after a few years and are about worthless in terms of accuracy. A much more accurate unit is available that has a plastic float that runs up and down a SS shaft. A friend of mine put one in his boat and it is very accurate, and they cost anywhere from $20 to $120 depending on your source. Some Chinese knockoffs with a 3 week delivery for the low end, the KUS brand running $25 and up with a week or so delivery from within the US, and the Moeller brand running from $60 and up from within the US. They all appear to be stainless steel and look very similar and all use the same 5 hole mount. With the more accurate central shaft type unit you need to know the exact tank depth since the units are made to fit a particular depth, hence the accuracy. Ebay, Amazon, and marine stores all sell them, just do a search "KUS SS 316 Marine fuel and water sending unit" and you'll get hours of reading and research material. They all come with the five screws and gasket and short electrical leads. My buddy replaced his in about 15 minutes, so the average person should do it in 10 minutes. My Tracker 21 gallon fuel tank has a depth of 8 inches, and I think that the right unit is actually an inch shorter than that. KUS does not deduct an inch, so from them I need a 7 inch unit; from Moeller I need an 8 inch. Make sure you order the US standard 240-33 ohm model--NOT the European 0-190 ohm. Ebay had both listed when I checked. I just remembered from previous experience taking mine out that the 5 holes are not equally spaced around the flange, it will mount in just one direction. Also, this gauge uses reed switches so it does not move continuously as the level drops, it moves in increments at a time.
    Last edited by ct0218; 06-20-2019 at 04:22 PM.

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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by ct0218 View Post
    The OEM sending unit is most likely a swing arm type, cheap at about $30 new retail. The boat manufacturers are paying much much less in quantity. The swing arm assembly only cost about $15. I wouldn't go back with that type because they fail after a few years and are about worthless in terms of accuracy. A much more accurate unit is available that has a plastic float that runs up and down a SS shaft. A friend of mine put one in his boat and it is very accurate, and they cost anywhere from $20 to $120 depending on your source. Some Chinese knockoffs with a 3 week delivery for the low end, the KUS brand running $25 and up with a week or so delivery from within the US, and the Moeller brand running from $60 and up from within the US. They all appear to be stainless steel and look very similar and all use the same 5 hole mount. With the more accurate central shaft type unit you need to know the exact tank depth since the units are made to fit a particular depth, hence the accuracy. Ebay, Amazon, and marine stores all sell them, just do a search "KUS SS 316 Marine fuel and water sending unit" and you'll get hours of reading and research material. They all come with the five screws and gasket and short electrical leads. My buddy replaced his in about 15 minutes, so the average person should do it in 10 minutes. My Tracker 21 gallon fuel tank has a depth of 8 inches, and I think that the right unit is actually an inch shorter than that. KUS does not deduct an inch, so from them I need a 7 inch unit; from Moeller I need an 8 inch. Make sure you order the US standard 240-33 ohm model--NOT the European 0-190 ohm. Ebay had both listed when I checked.
    damn I want a new one but that sounds complicated as crap. also how dangerous is it to change it with the gas and such?

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    #7
    Not dangerous unless you have sparks or flames close by. It is really simple. I have taken mine out 3 times on this boat, and several times on other boats and never had a problem. No more dangerous that pumping gas for sure. I've edited my original post, be sure to read...

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    #8
    On a 1-10 scale for difficulty and complexity I would rate this a 1 for a D-I-Y type or a 2 for those less so. Cut or disconnect the wire to the current sender, remove it, mount the new one, then connect the hot and ground wires to the new sender (reversing these two wires will make the sender work in reverse).

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    #9
    I finally got achance to install my new sending unit that found for 33.90 online. It is so much better than the OEM, the needle doesn't bounce around like it did. While I do think the movement is incremental it is in like 1 gallon increments--very slight. I prefer that over trying to average a bouncing needle. Definitely a good buy! Took about 10 minutes to change out.

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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by vandamit View Post
    how hard is the sending unit to replace and how much you think one costs to replace?
    Unscrew the old one, remove. Insert and screw in the new one. Connect the wires. Easy peassy.

    Disconnect the battery first so no shorting or sparks.

  11. Member BuzzBait53's Avatar
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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by ct0218 View Post
    I finally got achance to install my new sending unit that found for 33.90 online. It is so much better than the OEM, the needle doesn't bounce around like it did. While I do think the movement is incremental it is in like 1 gallon increments--very slight. I prefer that over trying to average a bouncing needle. Definitely a good buy! Took about 10 minutes to change out.
    what unit did you purchase and from where.

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    #12
    Do a search on Ebay for
    "
    KUS SS 316 Marine fuel and water sending unit
    ".
    This is a quality unit, all stainless steel, with a thick flange and thick rubber gasket. Took about 2.5 weeks to finally come in, but I was not in a hurry since I can see the fuel level in the tank. I ordered the 175 mm unit with the US 240-33 ohm sensor. My tank depth was a fraction over 8 inches deep, 21 gallons.

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    #13
    thanks for the info, I found the exact one you ordered on ebay, i believe it's from "Seawell". I have one on the way, i'm assuming about 5 screws and some new ends on the wires is all it will take? Also, dumb question and i'm sorry.....is a drill or cordless drill okay for taking the screws out or should that be manual? they both have a small spark i believe. Safety first so just checking.

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    #14
    Sounds to me like you answered your own question, if your concerned about sparks and safety, probably best to use a manual hand tool. One of my cordless drills in particular, probably on its last legs, occasionally shoots some large sparks out the side vents, lol.
    2011 Tracker PT 175 TF
    2011 Merc 60 ELPT 4S

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    #15
    I would use just a screwdriver. Note that the universal flange is not symmetrical on any sending unit--the holes are spaced just slightly different and it will attach correctly only in one orientation. When I say slight I mean slight, only half the width of the bolt shank width. On my boat the wires are oriented straight towards the stern when I had it properly positioned. The holes in the gasket are a perfect match for the tank and the flange, so you need to get them all line up properly otherwise 1 or 2 bolts will cross-thread and not fully seat into the tank. That means a leak. The bolts are stainless, and the embedded nuts are softer brass and easily cross-threaded if not lined up. None of this is difficult, but a drill can force the bolt that is not properly lined up in at an angle and cross-thread it. Two wires to connect, no polarity on them on my boat, so just connect them. In my case I connected black to black and white to red.

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    #16
    so i got my unit in that you suggested from Ebay. It installed easily like you said but also like you said the holes are tough to match up but once that is one they are good to go. Only issue is I dropped a screw in the gas tank.......told ya i suck at these things. I don't think it will be an issue since it's at the bottom and the gas comes out of the top but i sure was pissed at myself for awhile :) Thanks CT0218 for all the help, this should help a ton!

  17. Member BuzzBait53's Avatar
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    #17
    Changed out my fuel sending unit last night, removed the original from the tank and its already a CUS sending unit but its like 2in shorter than the replacement unit. my boat is a 2017 190 and the dealer looked up tank depth and told me 12 1\2 inches, so I ordered a 12 in unit, long story short is I guess now when it says empty it means empty instead of reading empty and having that extra 2in of gas in the tank.

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    #18
    Having that little extra when the gauge reads empty isn't always a bad thing... may help keep someone from being stranded. How dry can you get your tank before sending air or contaminates to the engine?
    2011 Tracker PT 175 TF
    2011 Merc 60 ELPT 4S