2002 Optimax 225 hp - Evidence of water inside the cowl

[greauxpete]

Hello,

Serial # : 0T513349
2002 Optimax 225 HP
Smartcraft Tach installed
Background: made an offshore trip
Memorial day weekend, on the 2nd day
I had a false negative overheat, which ended up being a bad starboard tempersture sensor.
Shut it down and came back on kicker to play it safe.
(Smart craft temp climbed to to 180F before engine was even started after sitting overnight). Changed plastic temperature
sensor (which was broken at base of the threads with only the wires connecting it to the head).

My concern, is while replacing the temp sensor I noticed evidence of water on the starboard head (salt residue). I was thinking perhaps water was due to the thread failure on the temp sensor (which is a straight v thread which seals via oring).
See attached pic.

I didnt notice any water dripping after replacing the temp sensor, but it was undoubtedly dripping after it failed since the threads no long were compressing the oring.

Any advice on, checking for leaks on the muffs in a barrel etc?
Any advice on cleaning motor and electrical connections?
Do you reccomend spraying down motor with boeshield after cleaning?

Thanks for any advice.

Steve

20190531_181856.jpg

[EuropeanAM]

Distilled white vinegar may help to remove the water spotting. 50:50 with water to start with.

Monitor for water leaks while running on the flush attachment (after it's dried out).

[Savage]

Run it on muffs.

[greauxpete]

Pulled the cowl and cleaned the water/salt spots off the starboard head and ran on the muffs to check for leaks (focused on temp sensor replaced and poppett area) and monitor smartcraft temps. No visual evidence of leaks and temps checked out (120F smartcraft temp on muffs). So Thursday, we ran offshore about 30 miles for snapper (no problems ran at 4300-4700 rpm). On the way back in when we were in protected water I tried to run at WOT, I could not get over about 5000 rpm (no audible alarms).

Previously was able to achieve 5450 at wot. My complete fuel system was changed about 10 months ago. New pick up tube, new 3/8 hose under deck to primer bulb, and new gray hose (with black liner) from primer bulb to motor inlet.
Primer bulb pulls fuel from tank on first squeeze when oriented vertically.

When I got back from the snapper trip, there was no evidence of water in the cowl. (water leakage problem under cowl seems to be solved)
I decided to change my fuel filter and water sensor, as a maintenance item since it seemed like fuel starvation and it hadn't been changed in over a year. (2-4-C grease on rubber seal and perfect seal "equivalent" on water sensor male threads to bottom female threads of quicksilver spin on fuel filter) It idles much better on startup after the fuel filter change on the muffs. Previously idle was slightly rough until smart craft temps were 120F. Now it idles smooth right at startup on muffs.

Any other possibilities? It will be atleast a week until I can test run on the water.

I appreciate all of the advice and help.

Steve

[g352nv]

I have the same issue or had. I bought the boat and pulled the cowl and theres was a white line. I ran it on muffs and notta. I did nothing the pee hose wasnt clamped on with anything. Plus the drain piepes that go from the top to the mid section were missing.

[SilverFox579]

I decided to change my fuel filter and water sensor, as a maintenance item since it seemed like fuel starvation and it hadn't been changed in over a year. (2-4-C grease on rubber seal and perfect seal "equivalent" on temp sensor male threads to bottom female threads of quicksilver spin on fuel filter) It idles much better on startup after the fuel filter change on the muffs. Previously idle was slightly rough until smart craft temps were 120F. Now it idles smooth right at startup on muffs.

Any other possibilities? It will be atleast a week until I can test run on the water.

I appreciate all of the advice and help.

Steve

Fuel filter should be replaced annually or every 100hrs whichever comes first. Since it is running smoother after replacement, very possible that could have been the problem. Please report back after running on the water.

[greauxpete]

Yes, will change filter every year now.
Will also carry an extra filter and sensor in my spare parts/go to hell parts bag. Seems like it would be do-able to change out on the water if needed.

items in offshore parts box:
Rebuilt pulse fuel pump
Spark plugs
Coil/driver/plug wire set
Fuel filter/sensor
2 new Thermostats
3 sets of thermostat gaskets
Coil/plug wires/spark plugs for kicker motor

[SilverFox579]

Might want to visit this topic in the FAQ that covers all the annual maintenance (and winterization) recommendations - Recommended Annual Maintenance or Winterization for Optimax Engines

[greauxpete]

Cool, I think I can handle all of those items, except the freeze frame history.

[SilverFox579]

Yep, need to see a dealer for that. Btw, there's a ton of great Optimax info in the FAQ beyond that one topic I linked. I reference it a lot.

[greauxpete]

Ok, I ran offshore yesterday about 50 miles.
On the way back, I could not get more than bout 4500 rpm max, the engine would sputter and lose power so I had to back off of the throttle when going through waves. When we got back into flat protected water I was able to get up to 5400 rpms where it would sputter slightly after about 2 minutes of running at that speed.

Full disclosure:

I just installed a garmin fuel flow meter which has an in line filter. I also have a floscan fuel meter still installed. Fuel lines from tank to engine and pickup tube is 1 year old.

I am thinking of disconnecting the inline filter and bypassing the floscan fuel flow meter since I have a nmea capable meter with mpg data now.

I suspect fuel delivery issues, but I'm not sure why this wasnt happening on the way out and only happened on the way back in after burning 60 gallons.

Thanks,

Steve

[Savage]

Remove all of the extra "items" between the fuel tank and the pulse pump.....re-test and report results.

[EuropeanAM]

BTW... fuel "used" or consumption data is available on Smartcraft, no need for all the extra (and flow restrictive) "gizmos".

[greauxpete]

I was able to bypass: floscan meter, 3 way valve, In line filter.
Same results as previously. I ran it at WOT and dropped the trim tabs to load it up and there was a definite stutter. Additionally, there was a stutter in RPM at WOTwhen the motor trim button was pressed. After running back, I also got an injector fault on smart craft and audible alarm (this is a first).
I just had the injectors serviced locally about 5 weeks ago.

See videos below:





Thoughts?
Thanks again for the help fellas.

[Savage]

Fix the fault FIRST.

[greauxpete]

Will the smartcraft gauge tell me which injector is at fault?
If so where in the menu?

Thanks!

[greauxpete]

Bringing it in to the mercury authorized mechanic who serviced my injectors since I'm getting an injector fault.
This seems to be beyond my level of expertise.
Will report back.

[SilverFox579]

Good decision, would be interesting to know what that dealer's "injector service" amounted to.

[EuropeanAM]

Be even more interesting to see the Run History and Freeze Frame (Fault) History, which will indicate whether it is an OPEN or SHORT circuit, and which injector circuit is problematic.

[greauxpete]

I just remembered this after reading about optimax battery specs. My boat has the following battery setup:

1 starting battery
1 "house" battery to run electronics, bilge pumps etc.
3 trolling motor batteries for 36 volt minn kota ipilot.

Now, the starting battery and house battery are connected to a perko battery switch which has the typical: 1,2, both selector. I run my boat with the switch set on "both".

To further complicate things, i previously had a 225 carbureted mercury outboard (before installing the optimax motor in question) and I had a minn kota DC charger installed which charges all of the batteries including the trolling motor batteries using the outboard alternator. Should I disconnect the DC charger? Could this be causing issues?

Don, I Will try to get the run and freeze frame fault history.

Thanks again.

Steve