2002 Optimax 225 hp - Evidence of water inside the cowl

[greauxpete]

Here is the injector service information (prior to injector fault):

20190512_144618.jpg

20190512_144607.jpg

[Bob G.]

Links do not work for me.

[SilverFox579]

I just remembered this after reading about optimax battery specs. My boat has the following battery setup:

1 starting battery
1 "house" battery to run electronics, bilge pumps etc.
3 trolling motor batteries for 36 volt minn kota ipilot.

Now, the starting battery and house battery are connected to a perko battery switch which has the typical: 1,2, both selector. I run my boat with the switch set on "both".

To further complicate things, i previously had a 225 carbureted mercury outboard (before installing the optimax motor in question) and I had a minn kota DC charger installed which charges all of the batteries including the trolling motor batteries using the outboard alternator. Should I disconnect the DC charger? Could this be causing issues?

Don, I Will try to get the run and freeze frame fault history.

Thanks again.

Steve

Am going to step out on a ledge and state your setup is less than ideal. The charging system on your Optimax is designed to maintain the fully charged state of one properly rated and fully charged battery. If I read your post correctly, you have the engine charging system connected to 5 batteries.

Battery switch is one thing, and IMHO, if you desire to charge the start and house battery it should be via an ACR style setup that gives priority to the start battery before automatically switching to the house battery. I'm unfamiliar with the MK DC system you refer to so can't comment except to say that's one heck of a load to place on your engine alternator.

Might also provide the specifics (rated CCA) for your starting battery as the Optimax has stiff capacity requirements.

[EuropeanAM]

I agree with Phil. Isolate ONE cranking battery to the engine. This setup is simply not what the alternator was designed for.

[greauxpete]

Ok, that should be an easy fix.
Thanks again.

[greauxpete]

#5 direct injector shorted out.
Replaced injector, test ran today
all previous issues resolved. Disconnected
DC charger for good measure.

New issue.. at the end of my test run while idling back, the temps dropped to 110F. Obviously a thermostat is stuck open.
Going to shoot each stat with the IR temp gun and isolate the stuck thermostat and remove, clean and test.
QUESTION: What sealant is used on the threads where threaded hose fitting threads into the housing?
(I may replace the housing with a new one I have with a raised dot for peace of mind).

I have 2 couples joining my wife and I for the Tarpon Rodeo next weekend, so this is a big weight off of my back.

Thanks again for all of the help.
Appreciate everyone for their time.

[KJK]

Why do you think dropping temperatures on plane is an issue? The thermostats are out of the picture while the boat is on plane.

I use Loctite 565.

[greauxpete]

While idling (not moving) temps dropped to110F.
When I first dropped the boat in the water at idle, temps were at 120F. Must have picked up some trash.
thanks for the feedback, I'll look into:
Loctite 565 for the threads.

[greauxpete]

Looks like the starboard thermostat was the
Outdated housing. Changed the starboard housing
With the new part number and also installed new (130 F)
thermostats while I had them apart.
I have noticed the new thermostats achieve a higher temperature than the old ones and there is a much more noticeable cycling of temps on the smartcraft temp. The old thermostats were stamped 130F. Perhaps the springs on the old tstats were weak?

20190718_180106.jpg

Oyster shells stuck in old thermostats causing reduced idle temperatures:

20190718_181021.jpg

[SilverFox579]

Both the old stats are clearly off the seats. You might want to flush your engine with the stats out (might be wise to remove poppet too) so you don't end up getting bits of oyster shell in your new stats.

[greauxpete]

Are there any issues with water running
over the coils or injectors with the thermostats out?

Thanks for the advice.

Steve

[Idaho Sandman]

Are there any issues with water running
over the coils or injectors with the thermostats out?

Thanks for the advice.

Steve

Pretty sure he is talking about removing the stats, reinstall the cover, remove poppet, reinstall that cover then flush the motor then reinstall the stats and poppet.

[greauxpete]

OK, gotcha. Another option, I could remove tstats and leave hoses connected to tstat housing and disconnect lower hose connections and drain into cowl or bucket.

[SilverFox579]

Sorry for the confusion, yes, engine off and using the flush port. Never run the engine with the thermostats removed.

[Savage]

OK, gotcha. Another option, I could remove tstats and leave hoses connected to tstat housing and disconnect lower hose connections and drain into cowl or bucket.

You can flush like this, but don't run the motor without thermostats.

[greauxpete]

Absolutely not. Dont want that cold seize.
I've got my eyes on that smartcraft temperature all the time during idle and always scanning while running at cruise. I Carry 2 sets of thermostat gaskets and extra thermostats in my spare parts box as well.

[greauxpete]

All,

I currently have two 800 CCA batteries, a starting battery and a house battery. (As discussed, they are currently wired in a poor manner) I plan on wiring the motor (only) to one battery and everything else to the house battery.

Should I:



1. Keep the 800 CCA batteries, wire motor to one battery and accessories to the other battery and buy a blue sea ACR "add a battery" switching system to charge both batteries with priority to the starting battery?

2. Buy 2 @ 950 CCA batteries (175 minute reserve capacity) and wire motor on one battery and accessories on the other battery and let the alternator charge both batteries and rely on the reserve capacity.

I feel like I need the house battery to be charged for offshore fishing where bilge, gps, radar, and lights are critical.

[EuropeanAM]

#2 if you MUST have 2 batteries, but you do need to install a Battery Isolator Kit.

[greauxpete]

After re-wiring batteries.
Motor only to battery 1,
Accessories only to battery 2.
Additionally, I wired in a blue sea SI-ACR - Starting Isolation Dual Sensing Automatic Charging Relay.

Yesterday, I ran for 2 hours while running: radio, bilge pump, livewell pump yesterday. I am glad to say there were no issues.

I appreciate everyone's help.

Steve

[greauxpete]

FYI interesting reading:

Making Sense of Automatic Charging Relays

https://marinehowto.com/automatic-charging-relays/