Oh and.... I was wr... wro... wroooonn..... incorrect. It was 2012 not 2011 I detailed it. That's good news for me! Means I won't have to do it again until 2022!
Oh and.... I was wr... wro... wroooonn..... incorrect. It was 2012 not 2011 I detailed it. That's good news for me! Means I won't have to do it again until 2022!
OK OK, that looks pretty good.......When do you expect to finish your project? I like your engineering on the hydraulic bleeding system...You have too much free time..Go to work & support my SS check...
USS Intrepid CVS-11 Helicopter Anti Submarine Warfare Squadron-3 1960-1964
When I keep my gratitude higher than my expectations I have a good day
Too busy spending my own SS check on "projects"! LOL
I'm waiting on Brady labeler for heat shrink tubing I can label and some 3/8" label tape for the fuse block at the console and the terminal mount fuse block kit. PLUSsss... Had to order more ferrite rings with a big enough ID for the MFD power cords to get a triple pass-through. Maybe by the end of the week.... Got the new engine/battery cables installed. I have the twisted 10 gauge pulled/installed just can't terminate anything until I get label materials.
I really like the Brady label maker...You are doing a great job..Show some close ups of the labeling when you finish..Originally Posted by yupitsme
USS Intrepid CVS-11 Helicopter Anti Submarine Warfare Squadron-3 1960-1964
When I keep my gratitude higher than my expectations I have a good day
I'm not sure what's happening.... I create the post, add the pictures and try to review post and all the pictures are deleted from the post. Mmmmmm.... Gonna try posting and then editing and see what happens.
I'm not even nearly finished and I'm struggling to get a "non-glare" photo of the labels. I'll continue to work on it but in the mean time....
I've made a little progress as I finally got my permasleeve heat shrink labeling cartridge today. I just did a few things for a photo op as it's 103 in the shop n' I don't feel like opening doors n' turning on fans. Soooo without futher adieu....
The is the four position terminal mounted fuse holder that I'm using to get rid of some of the inline fuses.... I simply can not get a non-glare picture tried it with flash, without flash with my teeth in and with'em out.... Oh... wait that's a different joke....
This is w/o the cover that comes with it. I put dielectric grease on the ST fuse spade connector, forced it down in the fuse holder. Put some on the screw mounting position before the ring terminal and after the ring terminal - it ain't gonna corroded! The label to the left has "Electronics Only Switch" the one to the right is labeled "Bilge pump/sensor direct to battery" I have an electronic bilge sensor if you don't have you - GET ONE!
Then with the cover on - which is also labeled.... Out of three attempts this came out the best....
Then on to the BlueSea fuse block that's installed under the console. Nothing but the power lead now as I'm "W-A-I-T-I-N-G" for some non-insulated butt connectors to arrive!
Then with tha' cover on....
Nothing is completed. None of the wiring is organized in the rigging compartment. Well except for what is organized. The stuff I'm working on is in a bit of disarray simply because - I'm workin' on it!
Once I get everything installed, tied down, tucked away n' labeled I'll, somehow or 'nuther get some glare free photos of it.
Yep, I really like that battery terminal fuse block. Gonna have to get me one. They really should sell it with the label maker included. yeah right. Do you have an estimated finish date yet?
I’ll probably wrap this project up next week. Ran outta non-insulated butt connectors and even with new power cables I’m finding I have to extend them some to route the cables to the fuse block like I want’em. Yes... terminal fuse block is handy - I wish it had more fuse positions.
Doing a little work on it today... But first...
IF you ain't got'cha some'a this stuff, or something like it, git you some! Boat n' trailer connections will luv ya' for it.
So I decided to go ahead and install the power cord for the SS3D module. Seems I checked it a few days ago and it was going to be short. So I added a couple of feet to it. Then crawled up under the console hooked it up to the SS3D module, routed it. Put a few tie wraps for place holders. Got to the BlueSea fuse block and, by my best calculations, the cord was.... mmmm... about 2' too long! Yank it out.... cut off what I just added and reinstalled.
Yeah... that's better. Yanked it out again and carried it over to my work bench and applied labels and heat shrink tubing and ring terminals - not necessarily in that order.
So pre-install it looked like this...
Then after I got it installed - loosely, it looked like this.... Coming together pretty well I think. I've started using my S10+ Samsung phone for photos. It seems to know how to handle glare waaaaay better than my 11 year old digital Kodak camera. If you look real hard you can see the triple pass ferrite ring I installed on the supply lines feeding the fuse block.
Thought I'd re-post some pics of the terminal mount fuse holder taken with the S10+
This post is for Donnie! But before you look at it.... get your tetanus shot!!!!!
Gotta trolling motor project going on....
Then of course there's boat wiring from one end to the other....
Then as a general contractor I'm writing a 40k supplement on a 60k flood claim.... I ain't got time fer cleanin'.... that'll come later!
Very interesting to follow your rewiring project.
I use tinned twin cables for all power wiring to minimize the loop formed by +12V and GND (which I prefer to name 0V).
2-picsay.jpeg
A loop formed by the two power wires will act as an antenna both when it comes to emitting noise and picking up noise.
I've had the same type Blue Sea fuse block as you have installed in my boat for 7 years, works very well. I selected this because it will help me forming minimal loops since it has both +12V and 0V terminals. I have one 6mm2 twin cable and one 4.5mm2 twin cable (to get the required wire gauge) from the main switch, which is located close to the battery, to the Blue Sea fuse block.
I'm an EE with close to 30 years experience in developing systems with up to several hundred thousand low noise, high dynamic range Analog to Digital Converters (ADC's) . The ADC's are located in cables which are up to 12km long which are towed behind vessels used for seismic oil exploration.
I have dual NSS12 Evo3, HDS-7 Carbon, SonarHub, StructureScan 3D, S5100 sonar units and B175H-W, B75H, SS3D, TM150, TM265LH and 83/200kHz HDI transducers on my boat. And I have radar, VHF, autopilot, AIS transponder and satellite compass as well. A bit more electronics than usual for a 21' boat
Yeah well.... I stayed at the Holiday Inn Express last night!Very interesting to follow your rewiring project.
I use tinned twin cables for all power wiring to minimize the loop formed by +12V and GND (which I prefer to name 0V).
2-picsay.jpeg
A loop formed by the two power wires will act as an antenna both when it comes to emitting noise and picking up noise.
I've had the same type Blue Sea fuse block as you have installed in my boat for 7 years, works very well. I selected this because it will help me forming minimal loops since it has both +12V and 0V terminals. I have one 6mm2 twin cable and one 4.5mm2 twin cable (to get the required wire gauge) from the main switch, which is located close to the battery, to the Blue Sea fuse block.
I'm an EE with close to 30 years experience in developing systems with up to several hundred thousand low noise, high dynamic range Analog to Digital Converters (ADC's) . The ADC's are located in cables which are up to 12km long which are towed behind vessels used for seismic oil exploration.
I have dual NSS12 Evo3, HDS-7 Carbon, SonarHub, StructureScan 3D, S5100 sonar units and B175H-W, B75H, SS3D, TM150, TM265LH and 83/200kHz HDI transducers on my boat. And I have radar, VHF, autopilot, AIS transponder and satellite compass as well. A bit more electronics than usual for a 21' boat
I'm not nearly smart enough to understand how loops are or aren't formed. On my long runs: 10 gauge - Battery to Electronics Only Switch(actually pick up the twist again after the switch) then twist another 18-24" to the BlueSea Fuse block. That is approximately a 12'(4 meter) run. Then from the fuse block to the bow unit I'm making another 10gauge 15'(5 meter) run to the bow. All the equipment power cords are factory mylar shielded with the exception of the last 3-5" where they're connected to the fuse block. Each of those 10 gauge runs just prior to termination are triple passed though a Ferrite ring. In the case of the battery to fuse block run that ferrite ring is located at the top of the fuse block. The block to bow run is powering only one Carbon HDS 9. The 10 gauge is twisted up to the point it intercepts the factory shielded power cord. After twisting physical measurement showed about 1.5" per twist so I have no clue if what I did was worth the effort to do it.... The SS3D module already has a ferrite choke on it so I'm doing nothing there. The other 3 - Carbons are getting triple pass ferrite rings just prior to the connector.
If you want to look at the specs on the ferrite rings you can find them here: http://assets.lairdtech.com/home/bra...310190-000.pdf
And in closing.... After a fair amount of work and an equal amount of money... My youngest son... college in California for EE... Kinna looked at what I've got as far as possible interference... I have CAN Buss +/- 2.5v for a 5v differential. 12v pumps that are at best intermittent, Main engine that is for the most part a non-issue simply because other than at the battery the two circuits do not intermingle. Trolling motor - which is a non issue when scanning. Beyond that is lighting and 90% of that is now LED - so were talking milliamp draw there. Soooo... when you sum it all up I just don't have a lot of sources for "interference" from what I can see. Other than now knowing "precisely" where my cables are run and how their terminated I'm not sure I’m gonna get a lot of mileage outta this exercise.
Your reason for selecting the BlueSea Fuse block was identical to mine because it had the 0v(using your termo'). The reason were perhaps a bit different. I thought it made the cabling install a much neater end product not having to split out the +12v and 0v well before the fuse block.
I have not seen the twin cables like you posted. I did see some marine(tinned copper)paired/jacketed(kinna like romex) that didn't really impress me. Thought it looked kinna like a RedNek running romex in the rain to get his front yard light working.
To Quote:
"
I have dual NSS12 Evo3, HDS-7 Carbon, SonarHub, StructureScan 3D, S5100 sonar units and B175H-W, B75H, SS3D, TM150, TM265LH and 83/200kHz HDI transducers on my boat. And I have radar, VHF, autopilot, AIS transponder and satellite compass as well. A bit more electronics than usual for a 21' boat
And pontoons on either side to keep it afloat????
Last edited by yupitsme; 06-22-2019 at 06:55 PM.
[QUOTE=yupitsme;10355608]Yeah well.... I stayed at the Holiday Inn Express last night!
YUP, you are definitely a Poor Man's Bob Hope.....
I'm still watching !!!!!!!!
USS Intrepid CVS-11 Helicopter Anti Submarine Warfare Squadron-3 1960-1964
When I keep my gratitude higher than my expectations I have a good day
Hey Yup, why did you connect the SS3D wake up wire direct to the blue seas? You got a switch in the supply to the Blue Seas? Otherwise your SS3D’s gonna be on all the time.
2016 Ranger 1850 LS Reata / Merc 150 4s / SmartCraft / Lowrance HDS Carbon SS3D
Yes... the “+12v supply” label you see on the fuse block is coming from the switch. Even when I had the dual buss set up the switch was present and the SS3D/wake-up wires were combined. We talked about it when discussing twisting the wires. You recommended continuing the twist after the switch all the way to the fuse block. It’s an “Electronics Only” switch located next to the boats master power switch at the console.
Tats right....forgot
2016 Ranger 1850 LS Reata / Merc 150 4s / SmartCraft / Lowrance HDS Carbon SS3D
Well that sucks! HUH? What sucks.... I wanted twisted 10 gauge wire running to the bow from the fuse block. Last time I got the heat shrink on the wires then twisted. Some said "ya' should'a twisted first...." so this time I did. Took 2 days a few dozen attempts to accomplish. I tried: baby powder on everything.... I tried blowing air in the heat shrink as I was installing it. I tried cussin' at it. I tried talkin' sweet to it. I tried ignoring it and finally I tried staying with it until it was on. Which required inch wormin' it down 17' of twisted pair. Took awhile. Pulled some of the twist out of it. But... it's done. I can put the twist back in it prior to shrinking!
So... I got the bow Carbon wiring completed. Got the twisted 10 gauge routed and secured. Got it tucked away up under the console like I want it except.... The Anchor brand self-stick tie-wrap mounts ain't self-stickin' no'mo. Gonna have to take'em down, put'em in a container of lacquer thinner n' get the self-stick stuff off and then mix up some epoxy and the epoxy/tape them in place until the epoxy cures - 24 hours.
Instead of trying to use butt connectors when joining the 10 gauge wire with 22 gauge I soldered them. Invariably someone will hop up n' claim "You shouldn't solder connections on a boat because of vibration. Well... yes n' no. If you're soldering to a fixed point, say a circuit board, and the wire is not supported then yeah.... vibration can become a bad thing for that joint. But if you have two wires, and in this case, dissimilar in size, and they're simply encased in a loom/harness and are free to move. Soldering is as good a way as any and in this case is better than a lot of other options.
Getting every thing prepped... Lotta difference between 10 gauge and 22 gauge(if that's what it is).
Hard to see but the wires are twisted together....
Then a dab of flux which is equally hard to see....
Then soldered - which again - is hard to see...
So anyway.... that all got done, heat shrinked and taped and tucked away....
Then came installing a short segment of split-loom harness. I put it on because it kinna completes the install in addition to protecting the wires - it makes it look better.
Once it's cut to fit I wrap it from one end to the other with electrical tape. Again... makes it look better and keeps the wires from sticking out...
So... cut to length and fit in place...
Then wrapped with electrical tape. If you'll notice there's a tie-wrap on the end. Actually there's one on both ends. Over time the elements can make the electrical tape lose is't stick'em. The tie-wraps on both ends ensure the tape won't start unraveling in a year or two or three... or.
Then tuck it all in, button it all up and it comes out looking like....
Got the electrical under the console done. Still have to tuck away the ethernet and NMEA 2000 stuff but that's easy enough.
It's pretty difficult to get decent pictures under the console space, or lack there of, being what it is.
Too hard to get pictures but trust me when I say there's plenty of tie-wrap mounts epoxied under the console. Some for the supply voltage which is separate from the electronics out voltage. And then there's the NMEA 2000 cabling and the ethernet cabling. It's all separated about as much as it can be in the space of 18-24"'s. I'm sure the "real" electricians and bonafide EE's find some questionable spots but for me... It'll work.
Hard to tell from the pic but no wires are touching.... As in there's some space between every lead - sometime not a whole hell'ov'a lot but some...
You can't see'em(cuz they ain't in the picture) but the 3 leads on the right(top one is labeled NMEA 2000 Power) those leads just outside the picture are all individually secured with mount bases and tie-wraps - they ain't moving....
Then ya' put the cover on it and it looks like....
In creating this post I, of course, am looking at the photos. Then I realize Dang.... the positive lead going to the bow MFD doesn't have any heat shrink on it -It does now!
Looking good yup. By the time you get back on the water, Lowrance will probably have another update or two released.
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