Deck lids with cracking fiberglass

[rfroese]

I have an older Champion with some huge rod locker lids. They have that rotting floor feeling because when you put all of your weight on them they give just a bit. Is there anything I can do about this without spending $$$ on aluminum aftermarket lids?

[bassboat1]

I had an issue with the front/center storage lid on my Ranger getting spongy. The construction is an outer fiberglass/resin mat shell, a 3/8" plywood core, and a gel coated inner fiberglass shell. The cause of my problem was the bond between the outer shell and the plywood was failing, and the outer shell was taking my not-inconsiderable weight. I managed to pry the upper shell off (took a little plywood fiber with it). I scraped/sanded off any loose resin and fibers, added several layers of epoxied glass fabric in the middle area. When that had set up, I epoxied that to the upper shell, with it all clamped down to my welding table to ensure some degree of flatness. I've fished on it a few times, solid as a rock.. just waiting for the mailman to bring me some more carpet adhesive, and it will be complete.

It's likely that your Champion is similarly constructed - get some supplies from West Systems and have at it.

[MMosher]

Yup just glass with wood core for strength. You can rip it out and start over or re-enforce it, or go aluminum. ChampioN went to aluminum lids for this reason.

This was the OEM when they were in Mt. Home. My it's my Uncle Marks shop. Not sure the price but if it's made of metal he can make em for you. He'll need the measurements or possibly the old lids.

Aluminum Compartment Lids & Deck Inserts
Industrial Mechanical Specialties -- OEM pre-Genmar
69 Substation Circle
Midway, AR 72651
(870) 481-6275

[Skunked again]

If you go aluminum, take the measurements to a local fabricator. Get a price, it might surprise you.

[rojoguio]

Bud check my Champion restoration post for info on how easy it is to repair your hatch cover from the backside.

http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=934664

You won't even need to pull the carpet. I skin from the back, cut the core material that has integrity into 1 inch squares then break out by hitting sideways with a hammer. Grind fiberglass to remove all wood traces before installing core. Epoxy in your new core wiping any epoxy that may ooze out with paper towels, then wipe with acetone (just where it ooze out). If your outer skin is not reusable discard it and use chop mat and vinylester to laminate. The epoxy must be fully cured and sanded before proceeding with vinylester. I don't allow any epoxy to remain on hatch where the vinylester will need to stick. I just glue to cores back in with it. I finish hatches with vinylester so I can roll Duratec VE Primer over the mat while it is still tacky. The primer really fills and hardens, it hardens enough to repair molds with.