Results 1 to 11 of 11
  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Pamplico, SC
    Posts
    358

    Rust in master cylinder

    Just bought a used boat and the one thing I didn't check before I bought it, was the trailer brakes. Opened the cap on the actuator and it was full of rust. I've never had any experience dealing with trailer brakes and I'd rather fix it myself than paying $$ for the dealership to do it. Just seeking some advise from someone who has had this issue before and what is the best/easiest way to fix this.

  2. Member Bill Reynolds's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    The Diamond State
    Posts
    3,849
    #2
    Quote Originally Posted by Triton 19x2 View Post
    Just bought a used boat and the one thing I didn't check before I bought it, was the trailer brakes. Opened the cap on the actuator and it was full of rust. I've never had any experience dealing with trailer brakes and I'd rather fix it myself than paying $$ for the dealership to do it. Just seeking some advise from someone who has had this issue before and what is the best/easiest way to fix this.
    I let my Pontoon boat trailer sit for several years without changing the brake fluid and found rusty fluid. I just found it so have not changed the fluid yet, but I bought a brake bleeder at Harbor Freight today. The first step is to bleed out the old fluid as you replace it with new then check for proper shoe or caliper operation. You probably have problems with one or both wheel cylinders.
    Suggest you search “bleeding trailer brakes” on Utube. Good info there.

    I try to drive as if my 16 year old Grandson is following me
    Speak as if he is listening and act as if he is watching

  3. mikesxpress
    Guest
    #3
    The Harbor Freight bleeder does work well and you need an air compressor to use it. For a brake system with rust in it your going to need allot of fluid to get it cleaned out. A $100.00 option is take it to a brake shop and have them pressure flush it which should remove the rust and then your back to normal 3 year schedule to change out the fluid yourself.

  4. Member ifishinxs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Southern Utah
    Posts
    6,403
    #4
    First get all that fluid out! You don’t want to push contaminated fluid into your calipers. Good chance your master cylinder is shot as well! You’ll find out once you start bleeding the system.
    2024 Phoenix 818, Mercury 175 (3B414035) Trick Steps, 3 Garmin 106 SV,s, LVS 34. BoatEFX dual bow mount. Ionic 12V 125AH, 2 12V 100 ah LiTime’s for the TM. Minn Kota 345 PCL charger,

  5. Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Mount Dora FL
    Posts
    378
    #5
    You need a new master and might as well throw a new shock in there too. system will need a full flush after replacement. How do the calipers and lines look
    2002 Tr-19 200 ox66

  6. Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Pamplico, SC
    Posts
    358
    #6
    I'm not really sure how they look because I'm currently installing electronics and other things. I'm pretty sure it's a good idea to replace all the working parts just to be on the safe side.

  7. Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Insomnia, near Seaford Delaware
    Posts
    35,513
    #7
    If it was me I'd buy a new actuator assembly. Also, you don't want to push rust and possibly water into your system and calipers. Backflushing sounds appropriate in this case to me.
    Maybe loosen bleeders and apply shop air after removing master cylinder line. Do this with calipers still on the rotors.

  8. Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    The Box, CA
    Posts
    14,150
    #8
    If the tubing is carbon steel and you find rust in the it, best is to replace all of it and use stainless tubing.

  9. Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Pamplico, SC
    Posts
    358
    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by jimsch View Post
    If the tubing is carbon steel and you find rust in the it, best is to replace all of it and use stainless tubing.
    Good idea. By the way, nice picture!!

  10. Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Insomnia, near Seaford Delaware
    Posts
    35,513
    #10
    My late nephew maintained those odd looking postal vehicles. They are basically 1985 Chevrolets modified by Grumman I believe. Anyhow they individually have millions of miles each and get all components replaced on a regular basis, one of which is brake lines. The replacements are stainless steel pre-formed and flared. My 'Cuz said that stainless is almost impossible to bend accurately and the Devil himself to flare, much less reverse double flare.
    Just sayin'.

  11. Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    The Box, CA
    Posts
    14,150
    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by billnorman1 View Post
    My late nephew maintained those odd looking postal vehicles. They are basically 1985 Chevrolets modified by Grumman I believe. Anyhow they individually have millions of miles each and get all components replaced on a regular basis, one of which is brake lines. The replacements are stainless steel pre-formed and flared. My 'Cuz said that stainless is almost impossible to bend accurately and the Devil himself to flare, much less reverse double flare.
    Just sayin'.
    Best to use seamless and a quality hand bender. It is a little harder to bend, but nor impossible. Have done miles of 1/4" and 3/8". You can get Swage-lok type of compression fittings that will eliminate having to flare the tubling.