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  1. #1
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    175 Fast Strike timing problem

    Hey all, I just bought a 98 Javelin 389b with a 98 Johnson 175 Fast Strike on it . Model number J175glecd. At test ride it had trouble getting on plane a couple times and was too slow on top end. It would only turn 4800rpns at 52mph with a 14.5x24 Raker 3 blade. I figured old gas or dirty carbs. Bought it, drained fuel put fresh 93 octane mixed 50:1 with Evinrude synthetic blend and a can of Seafoam. Also found warped bowls, sanded flat, cleaned carbs, replaced bulb with Evinrude bulb, installed new QV78yc ??? Plugs gapped at .030”. Did the link and sync (was WAY OFF, carbs halfway open before timing started to advance.Had really high expectations first time out. Big disappointment, it ran WORSE!!!! When I got home I put the timing light on it and was shocked to see the erratic timing. Cylinder 1 was jumping all over the scale, cylinder 3 would switch from 4 to 5 to 3 and so on. Bought a new Evinrude sensor (old PP looks to be CDI since it is blue) got home, installed, and at first idle it was a lot smoother. Put the timing light on 1 and it showed a consistent 4* atdc, went down to 5 and it held good, went up to 3 and it flashed a 4. Thinking wires may be reversed I went to 4 expecting to see 3 and low and below it flashed 6!!! As engine got warmer the good cylinders starting fluctuating and running really rough and dying. Idle screws are 7 turns out. I am idling in a test tank. I bought a Clymer manual same time as the optical sensor, after reading it seems like a bad PP. Would you all agree???? What brand to buy???? I can buy a OEM locally for $280 and already have a new OEM matching sensor, or order a CDI package??? Thanks in advance.

  2. Member
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    Oct 2009
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    Meridian, MS
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    #2
    not sure of your problem' but only oem parts if I were you

  3. Member
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    Oct 2009
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    #3
    i also wouldn't sand the bowls,would replace and install new kits

  4. Member
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    #4
    I’m definitely gonna replace bowls. Just trying to find out my root problem as quickly as possible.

  5. BBC SPONSOR Smoky Mountain Jigs's Avatar
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    Jul 2014
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    Dandridge, Tn
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    #5
    hey dcorbin sounds alot like u know what your doing but for sure the men that know their stuff on this site will tell u ditch the clymer and get a evinrude book. up top in the threads theres the omc /brp manuals where u can download one cheap.
    Chris Owenby Owner
    Smoky Mountain Jigs.com
    Hand Tied Jigs, Spinnerbaits and much more
    2000 Skeeter zx202c - 200 Yamaha Vmax OX66 VX200TLRY

  6. Member
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    #6
    Thanks Jigs. Decent mechanically, gotta be when you were raised as a farmer!!!! Lol Not too strong in the electrical department though. Yeah, I know the Clymer is not the best but it was there. I’d like to download it but I don’t have a PC. Will it work on an IPhone? If not I will order a hard copy from somewhere.

  7. Member
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    Nov 2005
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    West Greenwich RI
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    #7
    Didnt think you could time a 150/175 motor with a timing light

    1996 STRATOS 278 V
    1996 Intruder 150 HP
    Model 150GLEDB Serial # 04148601
    1991 335195 Heads
    FICHT Reed Cages
    Chris Carson Carbon Fiber Reeds
    Large Bore Carbs
    Prop Mark Croxton A45 15" X 23 Tempest
    Props Owned/Tested: 23 Renegade, 23 Renegade B&B, 22 Raker, 24 Raker, 24 Raker B&B, 26 Raker, 26 Raker II, 24 Raker II, 23 Tempest, 24 Tempest, 24 Fury, 24 Trophy, 25 Renegade, 27 Renegade, 23 Razor 3.

  8. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by StratosDadRI View Post
    Didnt think you could time a 150/175 motor with a timing light
    Learn sumthin new everyday..

  9. Member
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    #9
    I did, and bought a Clymer manual that said to do it. I replaced CDI power pack and optical sensor with new OEM parts. Timing is consistant now but bottom 2 cylinders don't seem to have vacuum through the carbs. Holding my hand over the carbs at idle (ROUGH idle) I can feel vacuum and the engine bogs, cylinders 5 and 6 I cant feel vacuum, engine sound doesn't change, and hand gets wet from gas. Gonna take the reed valve assemblies off this evening. Praying it isn't bad lower crank seal.

  10. Member
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    Aug 2009
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    #10
    Just my luck, I never do anything right! I should have made timing lights instead of Easy Timers.

  11. Member
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    #11
    Oh I am going to get the EZ timer. I was just using what I had at the time. What is the best way? Through you or EBay?

  12. Ohio Fishing Reports Moderator omcforever's Avatar
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by DCorbin View Post
    Oh I am going to get the EZ timer. I was just using what I had at the time. What is the best way? Through you or EBay?
    Jerry knows these motors quite well...(316jughead)

    Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill !!

  13. Member
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by DCorbin View Post
    Oh I am going to get the EZ timer. I was just using what I had at the time. What is the best way? Through you or EBay?
    Send me a PM with your e-mail and I will send you a Pay Pal invoice. 10% off for BBC members. You can set the idle timing with a light, if your careful not to get any light on the sensor, even bright shop lights or sunlight, can cause problems with the sensor. How about your compression numbers? This is a serious info sight for Evinrude and Johnson motors, but we do like to have a little fun, welcome.

  14. Member
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    May 2019
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    #14
    PM sent Jughead!!! Compression is 92-98 on all cylinders. Yesterday evening after work I put it back in the tank and fired it up. Smoked quite a bit and a little miss. Some reason the vacuum felt better on 5&6 but 2&4 will about pull my hand in it. Then after my “hand test” idling smoothed out and smoking stopped!!! I stripped the starboard side down and removed reeds, inspected, disassembled, cleaned and reinstalled. About 4 of them I could see a very small bit of light through. One of the reed stops had a lot of rust looking crap stuck to it and one had some coal black particles on it, carb cleaner and a rag removed it.I looked in the crankcase and saw some light scoring on walls, but could see a lot of crosshatch still there too. The connecting rods were solid brown, looked like solid rust. I’m hoping it’s varnish from fuel. Gonna try to fire it up again tonight!!!

  15. Member
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    #15
    Oh yeah, water coming from starboard side exhaust assist. Both thermostats were closed but I swapped sides anyway and it didn’t change. Time to do some more reading.

  16. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #16
    That's the color of the connecting rods.

  17. Member
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    #17
    Ok, good to know. Thanks Champ!!!

  18. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #18
    Be careful when you are working with the intake manifolds, There is a large spaghetti Oring that is used on both sides that can swell and get pinched. You should also test the recirc valves on the intake too.

  19. Member
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    #19
    Yeah, someone has already pinched about 1/4 of one. I poked it back in the groove and added a little bead of high temp etc sealant to the outside edge of the gasket just for a temporary fix. I can’t find any info on recirc valves. Are these the little gold inserts with 2 holes in them? I sprayed cleaner and a low dose of air. Didn’t act like valves to me.

  20. Member
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    #20
    Ok. Googled it. I unhooked the lines going into the cylinders 1 at a time. I could suck air out but when I blew I could hear a click and couldn’t blow so I guess they’re ok. Please no wise cracks fellas!!!! Lol

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