help with master cylinder brake fluid leak

[cobra-drvr]

I have a 2013 Marine Master trailer with a A-60 tongue.

Recently noticed the brakes are not working and the master cylinder was empty. After filling and bleeding, I noticed a leak at the tongue. I have disassembled the tongue and thought I would find a loose fitting or an obvious leak, but I dont see anything obvious. I am starting to think it is an internal leak in the master cylinder itself.

Given 6 years of use and a couple of 2000 mile trips, is it better to replace just the master cylinder or the whole unit?

thanks

[transdep1]

I replaced the whole a-60.But if you have it apart - look at what you need. ----If you replace the whole a-60 then everything is new. I did not like the play I had in the shock or roller bushings.

[Gamblinman]

Just replace the whole unit and be done with it.

[billproxs]

replace with a new A60
Lots if leaks can be small at back up solenoid line connection. Marine master Trailers tell me they have went to all rubber line now to help this problem. swing tongue causes some of this at times.

[blacknitro]

If you have a backup solenoid behind the master cylinder, mine was stuck and recirculating to the master cylinder reservoir every surge. It would leak out of the fill cap on mine and I couldn't find a leak. Put in a new master cylinder and used free backing backing plates for my drums to replace the ones I had. No longer needed a backup solenoid, problem fixed. If you have disc brakes, new master cylinder with new backup solenoid might fix the problem.

[Bassin Bob71]

Following.....my 2012 is doing the same thing. Think I have all the air out but am going to bleed again this weekend. If that doesn't work, I'm buying a new complete actuator.

[desertcellar]

Same problem with mine. Found a small crack in rubber return line from solenoid and replaced. All is well. 2000 year trailer.

[cobra-drvr]

I ended up replacing the whole unit and was going fine until.........the other day the brakes started coming on when I put the truck in reverse. It appears to be a bit random, I tried a few time to put in park and reverse, repeat and I also tried driving the loop around my neighborhood. About the 4th time around the loop when i stopped at my house i put it in reverse and the brakes didnt come on.

I did some google searches but am not sure exactly what is wrong.

First test I did was to hook the trailer wiring up to the truck and put it reverse then park to test if my reverse lights came on. They did come on every time however they do seem quite dim compared to normal.

Tonight I used a spare battery and connected ground to the same spot the brake actuator gets ground and connected power to the actuator several times. I thought I read you would be able to hear it click but I never heard anything from it.

When i installed the new master cylinder I reused the blue splice terminal and made a 2nd cut in the trailer reverse light wire. I took that apart and noticed when i connect a test light to the actuator lead, the test light is bright, when i connect the test light to the main wire where the blue splice cut into the insulation, the test light is very dim as well as the reverse lights are very dim. When i plug the test light into the trailer wiring harness in the blue wiring terminal i get the same results dim test light and dim reverse lights.

I assume i have a ground issue that is causing the dim lights and that is also why the actuator doesnt always engage?

I noticed all the splices throughout the trailer were done with blue splice terminal, even when a butt connector would have been a better choice. They all look a bit weathered as none are appear to have any die-electric compound or be the least bit water proof. All of the ground connections are tight but do have signs of some corrosion.

So what is my next step? redo every ground contact until I get a bright reverse light? Or could it be in the splice terminals? Not exactly sure where to start.

thanks

[billnorman1]

Test each splice. Even if they are sealed, which I do to all of mine. Pull really hard on the wires, if they come out they are no good. I recommend if you use splices, which I do, you get good crimpers, not stamped steel crimpers, and after test pulling the spliced wires, coat the splice both ends with a liberal amount of Liquid Electric Tape and then heat shrinking over it so some L E T comes out. That will waterproof the splice. A test light is a good way to test trailer circuits. A voltmeter tells the tale only if the circuit is properly loaded.

[cobra-drvr]

Learned a few things:

The swing tongue makes a huge difference in the ground! Didnt realize that and that was why my lights were dim. Not sure why they only ran the ground to the tongue and not extend the ground to the main trailer but I will take care of that

The solenoid is extremely quiet. I was expecting a pronounced click but you need almost complete silence and for me I had to really pay attention to hear it click but it does.

Going to redo the ground and power connection for the solenoid and test.

[wmitch2]

The dim light indicates a weak ground issue. Re-do ALL your ground connections and you should correct the problem.

[cobra-drvr]

Yea the dim light while troubleshooting was having the tongue swung open and no weight on it to complete the ground. I redid every ground connection on the trailer and redid the power connection for the solenoid and its worked find the last two times I took it out!