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  1. #1
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    Cool Hub Surgery

    I’m replacing the seals and bearings on my trailer. Got it stripped down to taking apart the hub. The maintenance diagram Ranger sent me doesn’t look like my hub.

    Does the cap unscrew or snap out.

    FB1C7930-EBA5-4D1B-9805-4C1E129BEADB.jpeg

    Thanks,
    DB

  2. Member
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    #2
    It taps off with a rubber mallet hitting it side to side.
    2018 Z521L 250 PRO XS V8

  3. Member
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    #3
    Thanks, Howie...

    it took some convincing taps to get it to budge. I’m in business now.

    DB

  4. Member
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    #4
    there is a special way to put them back together,does it have the two 0-rings and a spring in in the cap ??,i seen a really good video on you tube about the right way to check them and assembly of them so they dont leak,the guy tells about the problems guys have doing them

  5. Member
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    #5
    No O rings or spring.

    I’ll post a couple of pics after I get the parts cleaned.

  6. Member CigarBasser's Avatar
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    #6
    Step by step would help.. I need to do the same. Rear seal leak. Thx
    2001 Ranger 518DVX Comanche / Mercury 200 Opti (OT306368)

  7. Member wmitch2's Avatar
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    #7
    There should be 1 O-Ring that goes inside a grove in the hub. Put a coating of heavy grease on it to keep it in place while you install the Cool Hub Cap. Also, put a light coating of RV Black Silicone around the Cool Hub Cap for about a 1/2 inch. When you install the Cap, it will make a "Bead" of silicone just around the outside end. DO NOT TOUCH IT !! Allow it to "Dry" This will create an additional seal to prevent water intrusion and oil leakage.
    Ranger Boats / Mercury Motors
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  8. Scraps
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    #8
    After yah git 'er all back together and you're filling. Make sure you git every last drop of air out of the hub. I would jack up and down while filling to get the last drops of air out of the cavity so there would be nothing but oil in the hub.

    I thought the o-ring went between the cap and the hub which I eventually never used and just drop the cap home on top of the hub. Then the bead of silicone around the joint between the cap and hub.
    2017 Phoenix 819
    2016 200ProXS, s/n 2B359849, Mod 1200P73BD

  9. Member
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    #9
    Guys: Been through this on multi UFP/ Vault Hubs. 2014 Ranger Trail. All advice on here is correct. But, do yourself a favor and go to UFP/ Vault site/ see link below/ and know what the parts are and how to disassemble and reassemble before tackling. Study the diagram. All theses are Hybrid Oil assemblies all have the 2 O-rings at the hub cap mentioned above (silver hub caps w/ black plastic plunger on the end). You wont see them if you don't know where to look. They are recessed. Also know when you must replace your rear seals. An hours worth of study will prevent you repeated repairs/ money/ time. Ask me how I know. If I can help you let me know. Vault actually recommends a particular loctite for the seal between the hub and the cap. I have done all 4 of my hubs and carry a complete spare assembly. You also need to know how your brakes are removed if you take off the whole hub. Not required in the pic at the top.


    http://mcclaintrailers.com/vault/ufp_images/ufp_hub.jpg
    Last edited by bbbill; 05-23-2019 at 12:18 PM.

  10. Member bloodman's Avatar
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by bbbill View Post
    Guys: Been through this on multi UFP/ Vault Hubs. 2014 Ranger Trail. All advice on here is correct. But, do yourself a favor and go to UFP/ Vault site/ see link below/ and know what the parts are and how to disassemble and reassemble before tackling. Study the diagram. All theses are Hybrid Oil assemblies all have the 2 O-rings at the hub cap mentioned above (silver hub caps w/ black plastic plunger on the end). You wont see them if you don't know where to look. They are recessed. Also know when you must replace your rear seals. An hours worth of study will prevent you repeated repairs/ money/ time. Ask me how I know. If I can help you let me know. Vault actually recommends a particular locate for the seal between the hub and the cap. I have done all 4 of my hubs and carry a complete spare assembly. You also need to know how your brakes are removed if you take off the whole hub. Not required in the pic at the top.


    http://mcclaintrailers.com/vault/ufp_images/ufp_hub.jpg

  11. Member
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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by bbbill View Post
    Guys: Been through this on multi UFP/ Vault Hubs. 2014 Ranger Trail. All advice on here is correct. But, do yourself a favor and go to UFP/ Vault site/ see link below/ and know what the parts are and how to disassemble and reassemble before tackling. Study the diagram. All theses are Hybrid Oil assemblies all have the 2 O-rings at the hub cap mentioned above (silver hub caps w/ black plastic plunger on the end). You wont see them if you don't know where to look. They are recessed. Also know when you must replace your rear seals. An hours worth of study will prevent you repeated repairs/ money/ time. Ask me how I know. If I can help you let me know. Vault actually recommends a particular locate for the seal between the hub and the cap. I have done all 4 of my hubs and carry a complete spare assembly. You also need to know how your brakes are removed if you take off the whole hub. Not required in the pic at the top.


    http://mcclaintrailers.com/vault/ufp_images/ufp_hub.jpg
    great advice,a trailer repair man told me one time, the failure with a cool hub was guys not putting them back together right,spring and o-rings

  12. Scraps
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by bbbill View Post
    Guys: Been through this on multi UFP/ Vault Hubs. 2014 Ranger Trail. All advice on here is correct. But, do yourself a favor and go to UFP/ Vault site/ see link below/ and know what the parts are and how to disassemble and reassemble before tackling. Study the diagram. All theses are Hybrid Oil assemblies all have the 2 O-rings at the hub cap mentioned above (silver hub caps w/ black plastic plunger on the end). You wont see them if you don't know where to look. They are recessed. Also know when you must replace your rear seals. An hours worth of study will prevent you repeated repairs/ money/ time. Ask me how I know. If I can help you let me know. Vault actually recommends a particular loctite for the seal between the hub and the cap. I have done all 4 of my hubs and carry a complete spare assembly. You also need to know how your brakes are removed if you take off the whole hub. Not required in the pic at the top.


    http://mcclaintrailers.com/vault/ufp_images/ufp_hub.jpg

    This is not a Vault hub the OP is working with. It's an original COOL hub. There are no internal o-rings. A new cap will come with a new o-ring that is meant to go between the cap and the hub. It's useless. I would just drive the cap all the way on the hub and run a bead of gasket sealant around the joint between cap and hub and be done.

    Biggest issue in reassembly is to get the nut torqued on just right and it's done by feel. Too tight and you'll overheat, too loose and you'll shred the bearings.
    2017 Phoenix 819
    2016 200ProXS, s/n 2B359849, Mod 1200P73BD

  13. Member
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    #13
    on you tube there is a video that shows a ranger 2004 cool hub job,i dont know how to post the link but it shows how the center of the cap moves,go to you tube and type in
    ranger cool hub maintenance (2004 trailer) it will show you things you dont know about the job,
    Ranger Cool Hub Maintenance (2004 Trailer)