Adding Blue Sea Fuse Box

[Cerus]

As the title says - I’m going to be adding a Blue Sea Fuse box (6 circuit with cover and negative) to my Ranger RT178. I’m borderline low on voltage at my Helix 10” bow unit especially when running things like the bilge or livewell. Console is a bit low as well but within specs.

The plan is to mount it under the console and run 8g wire back to the main breaker switch. I’ll then run 10 or 12g from the fuse block to the bow. I also have the Ultrex HS at the bow but I see no reason why it can’t remain connected to the provided terminal block.

But I’m a bit lost on how to make the connection at the bow to the Helix. Dedicated terminal blocks? Butt connectors? Soldered? I’m also running out of room in the factory rubber boot for more wires. With the console transducer, two Ethernet wires and the factory harness already going through it it’s going to be a tight squeeze if not impossible. What has everyone else done there? I really don’t think two 8g wires plus more wires for the bow are going to fit. Am I looking at just drilling out a decent sized hole to add a second wiring boot?

[ifishinxs]

Positive and negative buss bar.

[Cerus]

Positive and negative buss bar.

Something like these?

https://www.bluesea.com/products/270...ar_-_5_Circuit

https://www.bluesea.com/products/272...20_Stud_5_Gang

[bandit53]

From your BS panel, run 12 ga wires (pos & neg) to each unit. Use butt connectors and cover with heat shrink. Be sure and place a 30 amp waterproof fuse in the 8 ga pos close to the connection to your main breaker switch. No fuses required in the 12 ga wires; fuse protect at the panel with appropriate sized fuse. I strongly suggest you place all your electronics on the fuse panel. Much easier to trouble shoot. In my last 2 boats, I mounted the BS panel in my starboard rod locker, where it is out of the way and dry.

[hookbender]

I did this to clean up the battery terminals and to supply enough voltage to the Helix 10s at console and bow that I added. I think I used 6 gauge from battery to the panel, for sure 10 gauge from panel to units and soldered all connections. Seems to still be working, got good voltage, but not sure if overkill or not.
Don't know why image rotated 90°.

[Ed R]

Under dash Blue Sea. Positive and negative from Battery. 3 HDS units, 1 SS3D box, 1 power to the N2K backbone.



Manuel breaker at the battery to kill all power for the N2K, as there is a Point 1 antenna in the system.

[AllyFishing]

Ed I’m impressed with the shielded cable to the electronics. That’s what I will do next time

[Cerus]

Not sure if I can hook into the existing main breaker/switch installed by Ranger. What size breaker/switch would be sufficient - 25amp? Would an in-line fuse still be needed on this line between the batter and breaker?

[Ed R]

Not sure if I can hook into the existing main breaker/switch installed by Ranger. What size breaker/switch would be sufficient - 25amp? Would an in-line fuse still be needed on this line between the batter and breaker?

I used a 30amp, but I think a 25amp would be perfect. No additional fuse needed, breaker or fuse not both.

[Cerus]

I used a 30amp, but I think a 25amp would be perfect. No additional fuse needed, breaker or fuse not both.

I might just swap out the factory breaker for a Blue Sea model that can accept multiple wires. Don’t think they make a 20amp though which is what the factory installed. It’s totally enclosed with two holes just big enough for the main 6g wire.

[ifishinxs]

Something like these?

https://www.bluesea.com/products/270...ar_-_5_Circuit

https://www.bluesea.com/products/272...20_Stud_5_Gang

perfect.

[Cerus]

Would changing out the factory 20amp breaker to a 25amp be an issue? They don’t have one like the below in 20amp. They’ve got ones similar to what Ranger used but they’re all enclosed and won’t accomodate additional wires.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/713...face_Mount_25A

[Jonestrollingmotor]

Several of these guys are on the right track. 8ga from battery to fuse block with a 30A breaker coming off battery. Pos and neg at fuse block. 12ga from fuse block to units. Connect 12ga to unit wiring -- no need for an extra fuse there.
John

[wmitch2]

oops, sorry !

[wmitch2]

I ran 10 AWG to the fuse block, then 12 AWG to each unit.

[Tim W]

I tried the whole fuse block with 8 and 10 gauge wire. No matter what i did I had a flicker when hit the starter... i just hooked both my console 12s up to my battery with a fuse right at the positive post

[Lou r Pitcher]

Would changing out the factory 20amp breaker to a 25amp be an issue? They don’t have one like the below in 20amp. They’ve got ones similar to what Ranger used but they’re all enclosed and won’t accomodate additional wires.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/713...face_Mount_25A

Yes, potential overheating and boat fire issue if you haven't consulted Ranger for approval.........The factory engineer already set up the boat's wiring for needed protection at 20 amps; not 25.

[Jonestrollingmotor]

Yes, potential overheating and boat fire issue if you haven't consulted Ranger for approval.........The factory engineer already set up the boat's wiring for needed protection at 20 amps; not 25.

Absolutely correct, reason we're telling him to come off the battery with an adequate breaker / wiring to a separate fuse box. Leave factory alone.

[cbr900racer22]

I like to use this Marathon Block for my personal wiring. I use it for my TM connections and units. You can get it in many sizes.

https://www.newark.com/marathon/306/...ion/dp/06H1560

[yupitsme]

Under dash Blue Sea. Positive and negative from Battery. 3 HDS units, 1 SS3D box, 1 power to the N2K backbone.

Here is my solution....



I like yours better. What is the model/part number/identifier for the common source fuse block you are using in that pic?

Thanks