Adding Blue Sea Fuse Box

[Ed R]

Blue Sea #5025, 6 circuit with negative and cover.

[Cerus]

Absolutely correct, reason we're telling him to come off the battery with an adequate breaker / wiring to a separate fuse box. Leave factory alone.

I assumed as much. Just trying to simplify the install. Would be nice to avoid having third breaker/switch but will use the 30 amp I bought if I have to.

I have seen where people have tied into the main line where Ranger reduces it from 6g before the fuse block. Any downsides to this?

[Jonestrollingmotor]

that picture looks like Rangers connection to the trolling motor batteries. You do not want to use the trolling motor batteries for the electronics.

[Cerus]

that picture looks like Rangers connection to the trolling motor batteries. You do not want to use the trolling motor batteries for the electronics.

They use them on the main power as well. The TM one is under the foot pedal. Looks like they have the ground direct connected to the terminal blocks under the console. The 6g positive goes from the main breaker to the same style connector and downsizes before going into the fuse panel.

I pulled this one from out from behind the fuse panel to check for tightness. Sure enough like everyone else’s, mine was extremely loose. So I’ve been thinking it could be used save some work and have just one main switch. I’d run a direct ground of course if it’s possible to use this connection point.

[yupitsme]

Blue Sea #5025, 6 circuit with negative and cover.

Thank you!

[Jonestrollingmotor]

They use them on the main power as well. The TM one is under the foot pedal. Looks like they have the ground direct connected to the terminal blocks under the console. The 6g positive goes from the main breaker to the same style connector and downsizes before going into the fuse panel.

Connecting here would be using the same breaker as we discussed in above post. Go to the batteries with the wire that is going to be used on the new fuse block and properly breaker that wire at the battery.
John

[Cerus]

Connecting here would be using the same breaker as we discussed in above post. Go to the batteries with the wire that is going to be used on the new fuse block and properly breaker that wire at the battery.
John

Which I understand and have the necessary gauge and length of wire, fuse block and breaker ready for. Not trying to be difficult. Just trying to understand what issue would/could arise from tying into the existing main power line. Other than it being a 20amp breaker/switch instead of a separate 30amp. I’ve searched having two fuse panels on one breaker but came up with nothing. Is that a no no?

One way would have a new 8g coming from a separate 30amp breaker/switch into the blue sea fuse box and then 12g to the units from the fuse block.

The other would connect to the existing 6g at the pictured connector with 8g wire (on top of the 12g that’s there) and go into the blue sea box and then 12g to the units. It would be new wire and fuse block from that connector onward.

[Ed R]

As John noted....Coming off the battery with a new/separate 8ga positive, and a new/separate 25/30amp breaker, along with a negative lead to the Blue Sea fuse box will separate all the factory Ranger electrical equipment from the new fused Blue Sea box equipment. Everything is on it's own circuit. If there is a problem with the factory Ranger electrical you will know where to look. Same with anything on the Blue Sea electrical connections. Another plus, you have not altered the factory Ranger electrical system.

[Cerus]

As John noted....Coming off the battery with a new/separate 8ga positive, and a new/separate 25/30amp breaker, along with a negative lead to the Blue Sea fuse box will separate all the factory Ranger electrical equipment from the new fused Blue Sea box equipment. Everything is on it's own circuit. If there is a problem with the factory Ranger electrical you will know where to look. Same with anything on the Blue Sea electrical connections. Another plus, you have not altered the factory Ranger electrical system.

True. It’s not difficult to pull that connector out but it’s not quick either. I suppose in the grand scheme it’s better to have two separate systems and just get used to the third switch.

[Jonestrollingmotor]

Which I understand and have the necessary gauge and length of wire, fuse block and breaker ready for. Not trying to be difficult. Just trying to understand what issue would/could arise from tying into the existing main power line. Other than it being a 20amp breaker/switch instead of a separate 30amp. I’ve searched having two fuse panels on one breaker but came up with nothing. Is that a no no?

Yes As long as you have a breaker that will cover the complete load you would be OK. There is a 20A breaker there to handle the factory appliances. If you put a 30A breaker in the same line, the 20 will trip before the 30 so having a 30 is useless. Putting a 50A in (20 + 30) and running a wire to one breaker box and a wire to another breaker box would allow the wire to become a fuse and could burn before tripping a 50A breaker.

One way would have a new 8g coming from a separate 30amp breaker/switch into the blue sea fuse box and then 12g to the units from the fuse block.

This what I said in an earlier post

The other would connect to the existing 6g at the pictured connector with 8g wire (on top of the 12g that’s there) and go into the blue sea box and then 12g to the units. It would be new wire and fuse block from that connector onward.

not understanding what you're saying, but sounds like more work than the other alternative.

[kcinnick]

I am adding connectors to my order to install one of these, can someone tell me what size the post is for the positive and negative feed? I want to get the appropriate sized tinned ring terminals. I found the #10 tinned ring terminals for the outgoing connections.

[bobcoy]

I am adding connectors to my order to install one of these, can someone tell me what size the post is for the positive and negative feed? I want to get the appropriate sized tinned ring terminals. I found the #10 tinned ring terminals for the outgoing connections.

When you look up the size of the studs, Along with the ring size make sure it is correct for the wire size as well. Just FYI