New to me 2018 Z19

[Fishahaulic]

Hi all! I recently purchased a used 2018 Z19 with a whopping 4 hours on the motor. I'm having an issue with the switch panel. When I first turn on main power the switch panel lights up as it should. After main power being on for about 30 minutes the switch panel stops working. Which means no livewell pumps and no bildge pump should the boat start taking on water. I've had the switch panel, and wire harness replaced by the dealer twice now and still it continues. Due to the livewell pumps not working I've lost fish caught early in the day. Additionaly one thing I do not like is; Both lowrance Ti9 units are connected directly to the boats power switch, meaing I must have the switch panel on in order to use the lowrance units. While I plan on removing the lowrance units from the main power button, but before I do I'd like to see if removing the depth finders could cure the issue with the switch panel issues. I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and if they've found a way to correct the problems. I'm getting tired of the boat sitting at the shop more than on the water. If anyone else has had this problem and knows a work around for getting the switch panel to work?

[avidbasser]

That new of a boat should still be under warranty...I'd be calling the local Bass Pro or Cabela's to get it logged and in for service. I know you stated it's in the "shop more than on the water" but I'd be heated and asking for compensation or switching to a new rig if it continues. There's no reason you should be solving this alone on a 2018 rig.

The graphs should be on a dedicated circuit off the panel and fed directly from the cranking battery. It should have a fuse panel with dedicated power / ground connected. I would install a battery cutoff in line so the fuse panel isn't a power parasite while resting. The wiring I used was heavy gauge as the graphs need a solid constant power to them.

This is what I had in my previous Nitro 700LX
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...72770805&psc=1

Switch
https://www.amazon.com/Disconnect-Ve...54685735&psc=1

Wiring
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/ancor...0?recordNum=29
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/ancor...0?recordNum=30


Hope this helps

[Fishahaulic]

That new of a boat should still be under warranty...I'd be calling the local Bass Pro or Cabela's to get it logged and in for service. I know you stated it's in the "shop more than on the water" but I'd be heated and asking for compensation or switching to a new rig if it continues. There's no reason you should be solving this alone on a 2018 rig.

The graphs should be on a dedicated circuit off the panel and fed directly from the cranking battery. It should have a fuse panel with dedicated power / ground connected. I would install a battery cutoff in line so the fuse panel isn't a power parasite while resting. The wiring I used was heavy gauge as the graphs need a solid constant power to them.

This is what I had in my previous Nitro 700LX
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...72770805&psc=1

Switch
https://www.amazon.com/Disconnect-Ve...54685735&psc=1

Wiring
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/ancor...0?recordNum=29
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/ancor...0?recordNum=30


Hope this helps

Thanks for the reply. The issue is still under warranty, and the dealer has replaced the switch panel twice, and the complete wiring harness once, but they seem to be perplexed on what's causing the continious issue. I do plan on rewiring the graphs directly to a fuse block once they get the issue with the switch panel worked out. I personally believe the issue is being caused because the graphs are tied into the main power. While I haven't had any issues with the graphs yet, the Ti9 flush mounted into the dash get hotter than any other graph I've ever used.

[potomacbassin]

If you think that's the issue then disconnect them and run without graphs for a day of fishing. That would eliminate that part of troubleshooting. You can live without your graphs for a day.

[BearCreek]

Ive had the same issue with my 2018 dealer couldnt find a problem... It works most of the time
Also the wiring for the graphs had a short in them and dealer couldnt find a problem so i had to rewire both graphs on a brand new boat.

[dc'sZ521]

I would have the dealer check for loose connections under the console, mainly the power and ground that feed the circuit board. Seems to be a common problem when leaving the factory.

[rodmoore]

I’ve had a similar issue with my 2018 z19. I also rewired a dedicated circuit for my graphs (2 Helix 10’s on the console and bow) and that solved some of the problems. But, I was still having main power cut out while running on pad at 40 to 50 mph. I replaced my main battery, still very new at only 6 months with a series 32 AGM, and that seemed to solve my problem. The series 24 that came with the boat was just too weak, it seems, as it’s stopped happening since it’s been replaced. Can’t agree more that graphs should be on their own circuit with heavy gauge marine wire and fuses as avidbasser said.

[One Holer]

I’ve had a similar issue with my 2018 z19. I also rewired a dedicated circuit for my graphs (2 Helix 10’s on the console and bow) and that solved some of the problems. But, I was still having main power cut out while running on pad at 40 to 50 mph. I replaced my main battery, still very new at only 6 months with a series 32 AGM, and that seemed to solve my problem. The series 24 that came with the boat was just too weak, it seems, as it’s stopped happening since it’s been replaced. Can’t agree more that graphs should be on their own circuit with heavy gauge marine wire and fuses as avidbasser said.

This.

I recently replaced my group 27 cranking battery with a group 31. These newer graphs with all of their options draw more power.

[potomacbassin]

I would have the dealer check for loose connections under the console, mainly the power and ground that feed the circuit board. Seems to be a common problem when leaving the factory.

Sounds like a loose connection somewhere. Your motor is powering those units when you're running on pad, not the battery. That's plenty of voltage to keep graphs running at over 14v.