What does everyone do about them? I’ve killed the mold and painted twice and the paint just peels off again. Ready to pull all the Sheetrock down and put up new but really don’t want to.
What does everyone do about them? I’ve killed the mold and painted twice and the paint just peels off again. Ready to pull all the Sheetrock down and put up new but really don’t want to.
Is the bath fan vented to the exterior? Is there a bath fan?
You need to control the moisture issue first.
1996 ProCraft 185 DC Pro, Mercury EFI 150
Has always been a fan. I even upgraded it.
If you are unsure of the "fact" that the fan is vented properly to the exterior...please make "sure" that it is. Do not assume that the previous owner or your builder did it properly. How large or small is the bathroom? How often is it used for showering? The CFM's are important as well...these initials rate the amount of air the exhaust fan moves out of the room. Typically when it is affordable to a client we take the switch out that controls the fan in a remodel and install a digital count down timer to allow the fan to run longer and shut off automatically after you leave the room. If you live in a small home with a large family with a limited number of bathrooms of which to shower in...repeated use of the most popular shower will increase the odds for what you are describing. Ventilation to the exterior as haha has indicated is VERY important..and is most likely the cause of the issue. I'd bet that you also have "ghost drips" on the walls near the shower too... To correct these issues I suggest that you treat the walls and ceiling with TSP and a bit of Bleach with water in a pump up sprayer while protecting all surroundings...then apply Kils oil based primer to all surfaces...then apply two coats of quality Benjamin Moore Brand Aura Bath paint to all surfaces...this method has worked over and over again for clients in the past. The ventilation must be corrected first of course....hope this helps!
As has been said the fan must be vented out through the roof, not into the attic. Very common for people and contractors to vent into the attic and leave it at that.
The idiot electrician that put it in when we were building the house vented it to the attic. I corrected it after I found mold in the attic. Had to have it all remediated. It is vented to the outside through a soffit termination I installed. Small bath. Only shower in the house. Oil based primer though????
When I see spots beginning. I’ll take a spray bottle with 1/2 bleach 1/2 water and mist spray the areas. Remove anything that can be stained by bleach.
Last edited by HaulinBass; 05-15-2019 at 05:44 PM.
Larry Eby, 2004 ChampioN 188 Elite/2003 200 Hp Vmax OX66
"Romans 10:9"
Oil based Kilz brand primer...no water based primer in my opinion that will work as well as oil based...Ben Moore Aura paint meant for baths will help as well...yes it costs more...but a small bath..how many gallons should it take at 20 bucks more a gallon....just saying...hope this helps!
Once mold has grown on drywall, it needs to be torn down and replaced. Mold grows roots. You can kill it with bleach but it has to reach all of the mold roots. I know replacing a ceiling is a bit daunting for most people so you can as suggested above painting over it with Kilz. Oil based only, the latex stuff is crap. 2 coats min on the oil. But bleach it first. Then repaint your ceiling.
If you believe the EPA. They claim bleach will only kill surface molds and such. For penetration you should use vinegar! As previously stated though, depending on the mold growth it can grow in drywall, not just on the surface.
2014 Phoenix 721XP, 250 SHO, Bobs Action Jack, Dual Blades, 112 Ultrex, 2019 Lariat FX4 F150 Supercrew 4x4
I was recently in the same situation, I tried three coats of kills in my bathroom without success then I heard a trick from a painter, I used an exterior white house paint with an additive from Home Depot (I cant remember what it was) It went on great and so far the stains have not bled through.
There is a product called shockwave clean it with that by the instructions and then use there primer called after shock and paint then paint over that no more mildew in that area!!
and im sure you can get it at Home depot also. same thing abatement companies use.
The additive was probably Penatrol. Really helps the paint...well to penetrate easir.
Are you sure all the attic insulation is properly in place? It sounds like its a condensation issue on the drywall from being exposed to attic temps in the winter time.. It doesnt have to be very cold to attaract h20 vapor. Water doesnt like being in a vapor state and is always searching for a condensing surface.