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  1. #1
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    Improving my bunks

    This topic has probably been covered many times before but my search didn't turn up any real good answers so here it is again (I appreciate your patience). I go to 3-4 really shallow launches where it's sometimes near impossible to get my Eagle 185 off the trailer. I have to redo my bunks anyway so this would be a good time to do them right. What's my best option for easy on and off. Ultimate bunks? PVC/plastic slides? Standard carpet with Teflon spray? I never unhook before reaching the water so premature launch is not a concern.

    It's ridiculous that my buddy with a deep-V I/O bowrider can launch and load easier than I can. I'm drafting less than a foot and he's over two

  2. Member alli ss's Avatar
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    #2
    Call drew-tek and get some gatorbacks

    xpress x19, 200ho G2, aluminum sawtooth cut prop, paper sack tackle storage, ugly stik pro team, color c-lector

  3. Member
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    #3
    Quote Originally Posted by alli ss View Post
    Call drew-tek and get some gatorbacks
    AH, there, I've heard of gatorbaks but never really paid attention to what they were for. Since I'm replacing the bunks, wouldn't I wanna skip the carpet and just use the Gatorbaks? That would let them dry faster and snag less vegetation wouldn't it?

  4. Scraps
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    #4
    No carpet, just the GatorBaks. I replaced my bunks on a brand new trailer. I got the boards, cut them, routed them, painted them and mounted the gatorbaks to the boards. Went to the lake, dunked the boat, removed old bunks, installed the new bunks, loaded boat and drove away. Most important tool will be a cordless impact driver.
    2017 Phoenix 819
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  5. Member
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    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by alli ss View Post
    Call drew-tek and get some gatorbacks
    The gator backs wouldn't help in this situation would it? I would think he'd want something a little slicker!

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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by krindgen View Post
    No carpet, just the GatorBaks. I replaced my bunks on a brand new trailer. I got the boards, cut them, routed them, painted them and mounted the gatorbaks to the boards. Went to the lake, dunked the boat, removed old bunks, installed the new bunks, loaded boat and drove away. Most important tool will be a cordless impact driver.
    What did you need to rout? I think mine just bolt on. Do you mean to counter sink the bolt heads?

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    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by javjoe View Post
    The gator backs wouldn't help in this situation would it? I would think he'd want something a little slicker!
    What's going to be more slippery than hard plastic? Rollers would be nice but seems like a lot of work to retrofit the trailer. Just to clarify, there's usually enough water to wet the bunks but not enough to float the boat. Late summer, the launch at our camp requires all four tires to get wet plus some grunt work pushing and rocking the boat.

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    #8
    I have a custom aluminum river boat that is made out of super heavy thick aluminum and it weighs close to 3500lbs just the boat and motor alone, and I also experienced some of your issues on ramps that weren't steep. I read online about putting carnuba wax on the bunks carpet to make the boat slide and load easier. I bought 3 bottles of the cheapest carnuba wax I could buy at the auto store and put all over my boat trailer bunks. This made a HUGE, HUGE difference in loading and unloading of my boat and now it will slide off the trailer with ease. Now I have to leave the safety chain on the boat until I get in the water, since the boat will almost slide right off the trailer.

    I would try this first before investing in the more expensive products. Good luck.

  9. Member Jeff Hahn's Avatar
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    #9
    You can also use a silicone spray on your bunk carpet to be able to ease the boat on and off the trailer. Just keep the bow strap on it when backing in or taking out or the boat might slide off on to the ramp.
    "The man of system is apt to be very wise in his own conceit; and is often so enamored with the supposed beauty of his own ideal plan of government that he cannot suffer the smallest deviation from any part of it…He seems to imagine that he can arrange the different members of a great society with as much ease as the hand arranges the different pieces upon a chessboard.” Adam Smith, The Theory of Moral Sentiments

  10. Scraps
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by BP in ME View Post
    What did you need to rout? I think mine just bolt on. Do you mean to counter sink the bolt heads?
    The instructions for a Phoenix say the edges of the boards need to be rounded over to fit the hull. The strakes on the Phoenix are only slightly concaved so a full 2x would eventually wear into the hull.
    2017 Phoenix 819
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  11. Member
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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Hahn View Post
    You can also use a silicone spray on your bunk carpet to be able to ease the boat on and off the trailer. Just keep the bow strap on it when backing in or taking out or the boat might slide off on to the ramp.
    ^^^This works^^^

  12. Member
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    #12
    I capped my 2x4 bunks with 3x4 pvc gutter downspouts cut lengthwise. After two years and lots of loading and unloading, they are still holding up fine.

    Watch out, there are two different sizes of gutter downspouts. The 3x4 is the larger of the two.

    By cutting them lengthwise, the sides extend over the edges, and you can nail them on with aluminum roofing nails. Total cost, nails and all was under $20.00.

    That said, I still would like some additional slipperiness so I will try spraying them with the silicone.

  13. Member
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by BP in ME View Post
    What's going to be more slippery than hard plastic? Rollers would be nice but seems like a lot of work to retrofit the trailer. Just to clarify, there's usually enough water to wet the bunks but not enough to float the boat. Late summer, the launch at our camp requires all four tires to get wet plus some grunt work pushing and rocking the boat.
    gatorbacks are soft and have a little grip. Caliber bunk wrap might be what you need, cheaper also.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKXstM77oK0

  14. Member
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    #14
    Spray the front third of the bunks with liquid roller (silicone spray) . Takes about two minutes to do it and your problem will be solved. You will not have to back in as deep as before for both unloading or loading. If you do when you unhook you will have to jump for the boat because it will come off. Do not unhook until you are in the water and hook it before you pull out to avoid dropping the boat on the ramp.


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    #16
    I was thinking that stuff looks just like Caliber bunk wrap and the pricing is similar. Then I saw at the end of the instructions that it is made by Caliber. I wonder why they don't just say that in the product description.

    Thanks for all the input guys. Since I'm replacing both bunks and carpet, I think I'll try the Caliber. Gatorbak looks good too but it costs about twice as much.