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  1. Lowrance/Garmin/GPS Moderator fishin couillon's Avatar
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    #1941
    I usally wait till around 50% unless i have a tourney, the charge no matter where they are at...
    YOU are not entitled to what I have earned!!!!!

    2014 Phoenix 619 Pro / 2014 Mercury 200 Pro XS

  2. Moderator Fishysam's Avatar
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    #1942
    Quote Originally Posted by JavaJoe_2 View Post
    When do y'all charge"m? After every trip? At 50%
    I have been but that because my agm is also connected to the charger. I'm not saying it's the healthiest way to treat the batteries but the ionic app is still telling me my batteries life is 100% so after the season I'll make detailed comparison to a friend who is only charging when needed^^^

  3. Member
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    #1943
    Probably guy's on BBC that have 2-3 years on their IONIC batteries. My guess they are still charging to 98-99%. Leaving chargers running on lead acid and AGM is not good, no management board on them to control charge. IONIC trolling batteries keep the same voltage at 50% as 99% so they provide plenty of power as opposed to AGM etc. The Bluetooth app will keep you updated on when you need to charge IONICs. Also it will help you understand how you use power for your style of fishing. You may find you can fish 2-3 trips before charging. Everyone will have their particular style and IONIC Bluetooth App will help you find what works best. Good fishing to all.


    RangerZ - IONIC Batteries, Lithiumhub.com

  4. Member
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    #1944
    Quote Originally Posted by Fishysam View Post
    "the ionic app is still telling me my batteries life is 100%"
    Same here with my Ionics that get charged to 100% via a simple constant voltage charger. The BMS says they are 100% healthy. Who an I to disagree with the BMS?

  5. Member
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    #1945
    Semi trucks to a great extent have their motors running many many hours a day. At times, all day. Whenever their motor is running their lead acid batteries are being charged. How is it that their batteries are not being harmed by constant charging?

  6. Member
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    #1946
    Quote Originally Posted by Fishysam View Post
    I have been but that because my agm is also connected to the charger. I'm not saying it's the healthiest way to treat the batteries but the ionic app is still telling me my batteries life is 100% so after the season I'll make detailed comparison to a friend who is only charging when needed^^^
    The app tells you the level of charge your battery has. It is not an indicator of life remaining. Each charge cycle takes a toll on the batteries capacity. That is a very small amount of change on capacity since they are rated to be at 80% capacity when cycle life is used up. You would have to test the capacity by draining the battery and see how much capacity it has remaining. Bob
    Tell me where has a slow movin' once quick draw outlaw got to go

  7. Moderator Fishysam's Avatar
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    #1947
    Quote Originally Posted by bobcoy View Post
    The app tells you the level of charge your battery has. It is not an indicator of life remaining. Each charge cycle takes a toll on the batteries capacity. That is a very small amount of change on capacity since they are rated to be at 80% capacity when cycle life is used up. You would have to test the capacity by draining the battery and see how much capacity it has remaining. Bob
    Sure possibly in theory. Or if they have a 10 year life cycle and 5000 charge cycles but I fish 125 a year times 10 years 1250 cycles. And if you don't have ionic batteries and the app maybe you should look into it as there is an "estimated " battery life section not just state of charge. Also it will tell you how many watts and amps are flowing "approximately " at any given moment. When my boat is not moving and I slam power ten it will pull 44 amps but as the hull starts spreading up the load on the motor comes down to 37 amps. This was discussed earlier in the thread. 83859E7E-E928-402A-B39E-A98A1822DDD6.jpegMaybe estimated battery life is incorrect terminology but if it's sitting at 100-98 and is stable I have no fear, sure in a few years or a decade it may go from 80% to 50 in a couple months, we will cross that road when we get there. Current battery Health/condition/capacity... what ever.
    Last edited by Fishysam; 08-13-2021 at 03:52 PM.
    Mercury 250 proxs 2B115089

  8. Moderator Fishysam's Avatar
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    #1948
    Quote Originally Posted by yam911 View Post
    Semi trucks to a great extent have their motors running many many hours a day. At times, all day. Whenever their motor is running their lead acid batteries are being charged. How is it that their batteries are not being harmed by constant charging?
    It's probably not the best for the batteries but there are loads on them all the time too, I would bet the newer alternators free up and don't make a charge as often as they can get away with it, pick up trucks have been doing this for many years as well to the point Chevy/gmc make their volt gauge lie so people don't complain that something is wrong. This frees up efficiency and improves MPGs
    Mercury 250 proxs 2B115089

  9. Member
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    #1949
    You can use all the numbers, their meaning depends how they are calculated. I am sure its a formula using cycle count, possibly with a factor from depth of charge averages, or not. There are many factors involved in the actual "health". These are nice numbers and short of actually measuring capacity is more numbers than the rest give. It is very nice to have numbers from their tables. Most have none unless you have the testing equipment on hand and the time and desire to know the details. Using the proper charger and try not to go outside the spec's they will last as long as they should. For me, after proper setup and reasonable conditions is all the thinking about the batteries I care to do. I follow the manufacturers recommendations on charging. Bob
    Tell me where has a slow movin' once quick draw outlaw got to go

  10. Member
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    #1950
    Quote Originally Posted by DewRonInc View Post
    I got a 12V 125AH for starting and Electronics, ordered a new blue sea fuse panel, a new shut off switch, actually two, new wire from ancor marine, 6/2 to power fuse panel, sick of voltage drops, should be no more.......
    I did the same! No problems at all with that setup.

  11. Member
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    #1951
    Quote Originally Posted by Fishysam View Post
    It's probably not the best for the batteries but there are loads on them all the time too, I would bet the newer alternators free up and don't make a charge as often as they can get away with it, pick up trucks have been doing this for many years as well to the point Chevy/gmc make their volt gauge lie so people don't complain that something is wrong. This frees up efficiency and improves MPGs
    Damn if I can tell what is best for a battery and what is not. Too much (miss?) information out and about.

    I have a group 65 flooded lead acid battery on a test bench. About 825 CCA I believe. Powered by a 125 amp alternator. Dumb alternator. All it knows to do is to maintain X volts output.

    As the battery is charged the current flow goes down. Down to about 0.3 amp where it seems to stabilize. At 14.5 volts.

    Will having 0.3 amps going to a battery for hours on end do it any damage? Darned if I can tell.

    And what will be the damage? A reduction in life? How much? If I lose one month over say 6 years is that a show stopper or is it worth it for the convenience?

    Many remove and replace batteries on a calendar basis. Apparently just for the hell of it. In those cases the loss of a month or two won't matter.

    To quote the Eagles. "The more I know, The less I understand."

  12. Member
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    #1952
    LOL.....If you read this thread from the first post till now.......maybe you will qualify for a phd in battery science. Modern automobile alternators have built in regulators and running vehicles are using battery current for all active functions, heaters, air conditioning, big stereo amp, all kinds of stuff.... Non lithium batteries sitting idle on chargers over time will dissipate electrolyte and may go bad, whereas Lithium has the BMS to shut the charge off.
    One thing to keep in mind is leaving any batteries charging for long periods is the possibility of fire, storm damage and etc. The IONIC Bluetooth app will always be your friend and show what is needed and what is not needed at the time. Lithium over time does not discharge as lead acid batteries do. So no prolong charging required, nor trickle chargers. I have found for ME is to keep it simple, a quick look at the IONIC BT App, keeps me up to date. Again everyone has their unique situation and will find their on routine.


    RangerZ - IONIC Batteries, Lithiumhub.com

  13. Member
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    #1953
    My trolling motor batteries and charge went out at the same time and at the summer sale price, it made sense to switch over to lithium. I ended up getting the ionic 3x50ah, 1x125ah, and the ionic charger. Replacing my 27s, 31, and a dual pro saved me 150lbs and a ton of space in my bilg.

    I'm running a triton tr20xhp with an 06 merc proxs 225. No issues cranking but the starter does sound a bit different. Will be interesting to see how it performs in the winter.

    Went out fishing in 15mph wind and heavy boat traffic for 4 hours. On a 112lb fortrex, I ended up with 73%. For me that is plenty of juice for 99% of my fishing days. Can't even put a dent in the 125 running 3 garmins and livescope.

    Feels like a completely new boat in a good way. Much better hole shot and mid range. I can now stay on plane down to 18mph. Chine walk is much easier to handle at WOT. I don't see myself ever going back to lead.

  14. Member
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    #1954
    Wondering if anyone else experienced this:
    Twice in the last year my cranking battery would not start the motor even though it was at 100%. As soon as I turn the key the volts go to 0% and then go back to fully charged after a bit on the charger. I have to hit it with a booster pack and then it's fine....for a while.
    It's almost like it has volts but no cranking power.

  15. Member Bob B's Avatar
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    #1955
    Quote Originally Posted by NHRG View Post
    Wondering if anyone else experienced this:
    Twice in the last year my cranking battery would not start the motor even though it was at 100%. As soon as I turn the key the volts go to 0% and then go back to fully charged after a bit on the charger. I have to hit it with a booster pack and then it's fine....for a while.
    It's almost like it has volts but no cranking power.
    What battery do you have? Sounds like the BMS is cutting off due to over current .... and then resetting itself.
    __________________________________________________ ___

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  16. Member fishnfireman's Avatar
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    #1956
    Twice in the last year my cranking battery would not start the motor even though it was at 100%. As soon as I turn the key the volts go to 0% and then go back to fully charged after a bit on the charger. I have to hit it with a booster pack and then it's fine....for a while.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob B View Post
    What battery do you have? Sounds like the BMS is cutting off due to over current .... and then resetting itself.
    What battery and what motor ?

  17. Member
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    #1957
    250 SHO with Ionic 125ah cranker.

  18. BBC SPONSOR / PHOENIX MOD DREWTICK's Avatar
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    #1958
    Quote Originally Posted by NHRG View Post
    250 SHO with Ionic 125ah cranker.
    Have you spoken with IONIC about it? if not please give Them a Call 704-360-9311
    Drewcraft Specializes in Lithium Batteries and Chargers, We carry all Brands of Trolling Motors and Graphs, Minnkota, Lowrance, Garmin, Motorguide
    910-722-0001 call or text
    info@drewcraft.com

  19. Member
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    #1959
    No I haven't it so random before it happens. One time after just cruising around, the other time fresh off the charger overnight.

  20. Member
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    #1960
    Is there a reason the connectors are basically the opposite of other batteries? It would be so much easier to add all the connections if they had post with nuts instead of holes and bolts.

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