Needle bearing replacement?

[headhigh]

Hey guys, I had a rear prop shaft seal fail on me Sunday. E150DHLINE. Lots of water in the gearcase oil. Leaking out when I got her back to the ramp. I'm going to pull it apart next weekend and replace all the seals. Fortunately, there were no metal chunks on the magnets. I did notice that I have some side to side (radial?) play in the prop shaft like maybe the needle bearings in the bearing carrier are worn beyond limits. I haven't measured it, but it feels like it's more than .005". Are those bearings hard to change, or do they pull out/press in just like the prop shaft seals? Thanks.

[ChampioNman]

There is jaw type puller that is used to remove them and they need to be pressed in. I can't remember the last time I replaced a set. Keep in mind that there are two different part numbers for the bearings, one for the forward bearing and one for the rear.

[headhigh]

Yeah, I saw there were two different part numbers for them. Seems easy enough. My co-worker has a press I can use to install the new ones.

[ChampioNman]

If you still have your old manual, the process is the same with the ETEC as it is with the FastStrike.

[headhigh]

If you still have your old manual, the process is the same with the ETEC as it is with the FastStrike.

Perfect! I still have that paperback manual. I have the 2012 E-TEC manual on CD-ROM, but prefer the paperback sitting next to me.

[headhigh]

Well damn! Now I'm confused.
I pulled the bearing carrier out of the lower unit. It came out without any excess effort. The seals had almost no rubber left on them and the rear bearings were loose and slightly damaged inside the bearing race. The forward needle bearings look really good and may not need replaced. The prop shaft looks good, but had a little damage along the bevel from where the thrust washer was spinning. The thrust washer isn't reusable and the prop shaft had a small lip at the top of the bevel that easily filed off. I pulled the bad seals and rear bearings out of the carrier and pressed in the new rear bearings. I figured before I press in the rear prop shaft seals I'd slide the carrier back in with the new bearing just to make sure there's no radial play in the prop shaft, but the carrier won't go in. It's like the prop shaft is too big/bearings too tight. Everything was well oiled, so I figured it would slide right on. Am I missing something here or am I facing a possible prop shaft replacement? I'm going to mic the prop shaft today after work and try to figure out what's going on.

[Evinrude57]

Did that motor still have the original L2 gearcase that it came with? Isnt there a different process for removing the bearing carrier on an L2 and M2 that requires some special tools? I remember them telling us in school that using a puller like you would on a faststrike could or would damage the forward thrust bearings or maybe that was just for them M2.

[gearcaseman]

Are you sure you have the correct bearing ? There are 3 available. It sounds like you ended up with a bearing for the 1 3/16" propshaft,, and yours should be 1 1/4".

[headhigh]

I ordered the only one listed on boats.net for my LU. It is the original LU and this is the first time it’s been apart.

[gearcaseman]

Do you have the actual Torrington number of the bearing ? I will try to help you with identifying it to see if it's correct.

[gearcaseman]

Another thought...Are you sure it's the bearing interfering on the shaft and not the reverse gear keeping the carrier from going in ? Try turning the carrier around and install just the back of it and see if it goes over the bearing that way.

[headhigh]

Another thought...Are you sure it's the bearing interfering on the shaft and not the reverse gear keeping the carrier from going in ? Try turning the carrier around and install just the back of it and see if it goes over the bearing that way.

I tried that and it still wouldn’t go on. The prop shaft is exactly 1.250”. I don’t have an I.D. micrometer, so I can’t confirm the bearing inside diameter, but it looks to be 1.250” also. I went ahead and ordered a new bearing ($13), and removed the old one from the carrier. I was going to try it on the prop shaft when I pulled it out, but I damaged it and the bearings fell out.

[Bassmeister]

Give Eddie the #'s off the front bearing so he can check for the right one....all else fails take it to him.....I do mine. In fact as soon as I get the chance I'm taking my magnum with nose cone to him. Well worth the drive to visit him and see his latest toys.....

[headhigh]

Both old and new bearings say USA S BH-2016-D. The original bearing says TORRINGTON DW. The new one reads KOYO FJJ.

[gearcaseman]

O.K., You have the correct bearing. Something strange going on. Are you sure you filed off the burr or lip completely ? Since you don't have the shaft removed, maybe some of it is still there ???

[headhigh]

Well, now I’m waiting for the new bearing to get here. I’m going to try sliding it on to make sure it fits before I press it in the carrier. The prop shaft is good and clean.
And if I haven’t said so yet, thanks to you all for the help.

[gearcaseman]

Always glad to help ! Keep us posted as to what you find out...

[SEAHORSE]

Some bearings are made for a press fit and others are not even though they have the same OD and ID.

If you are not using an OEM part, then you have to be certain that the one you use is sized correctly for a press fit.

[headhigh]

It was an OEM bearing. I’ve learned my lesson with aftermarket parts.

[Bassmeister]

Yea Hoss.....we've taught him WELL!!!