Looking for some clarity on this, I have a triton with metal flake, if there were area's I wanted to gelcoat, what is the proper procedure ? wet sand it and leave it dull then add gel coat, then sand with 1500-2000 grit ?
Looking for some clarity on this, I have a triton with metal flake, if there were area's I wanted to gelcoat, what is the proper procedure ? wet sand it and leave it dull then add gel coat, then sand with 1500-2000 grit ?
Ok..... 2 more casts and I'm outta here!!
You have to be careful when sanding, the color of the flake is applied to silver flake. If you sand too far your flake will turn silver. If you have silver flake I guess your good. I wet sand to level and remove any sunburn. When applying clear gelcoat my first coat is straight gelcoat with MEK to thin a bit. Second coat I mix about 20% patch additive to clear gelcoat and put on wet. Third coat is 2:1 Clear gelcoat to Patch additive and any more coats needed to bury say repaired flake is mixed 1:1 with patch additive, no reducers. No wax is needed if using patch additive and I usually start with 600 grit "High Quality Paper!" You use cheap paper you put extra work right into the job with random deep scratches. The purple paper is what I buy, can't think of the name right now. I bought a HVLP gun with a industrial 2.6 fluid nozzle size, really helps cut down on "peel". You must use HVLP air couplers or you won't get enough air volume to atomize the thick fluid. For sanding I use a Dynabrade palm finish oribital 5" Hook & Loop and a hand spray bottle with water & a very small amount of Bule Dawn. Really helps keep the paper from plugging. Be sure and do the thumb nail test before starting the Cut & Polish, I have had gelcoat sink when using the additive 1:1.
Need a little more info....why are you wanting to re-gel? Has your flake changed color?Originally Posted by Shadowrap
BULLET 20 XRD/250 Merc Sport XS
www.ncboatguy.com
Are you using a turbine system or a conversion gun? PSI?
Just a straight Gravity Feed 1qt cup HVLP gun. 2.6 nozzle. Pressure, enough to atomize.
Thanks! I've got some repairs to do this year.
If you pull the trigger and no fluid comes out or better yet notice the flow is not coming out like it was, dump your cup, rinse cup with acetone, then put clean acetone in, loosen the cap just enough so the needle area will backwash. Backwash by lowering your air pressure at the gun first then pull the trigger slowly, pulsing continuously, until you get all the hardening gelcoat out. I have had the gelcoat setup in the tip, I pulled the trigger, and the lid to the cup blew off blowing 1/2 cured gelcoat all over my job. I really like using the HVLP even for complete gelcoat jobs. My local body shop supplier caries "Naked Gun" and it works to soften harden gelcoat if you soak your gun in it. Here is the link to the gun I use. It is cheap enough to replace if you let it get too dirty to spray properly.
https://www.amazon.com/TCP-Global-Pr.../dp/B001NOU92G
That'll grow a few, new gray ones!
Usable guns seem to have come down in $$ over the last decade... think I paid $500 for my Accuspray ten gun. I sincerely appreciate the tips!
Results on the waterman look great. Gun on amazon does a great job from your pictures!
I have a few scratches on the rear quarter of my boat from riprap. Im going to repair they but I cant seem to find clear gel coat? At least at something less that a quart or gallon.
Any one have any leads on clear gell coat?
Thank you.
fiberglast.com
Thank you
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