Is my transom ok?

[datbasstho]

Hi everyone,

I already started a thread in the "boat restoration" section but maybe it would be better here considering my boat is a 1991 Nitro 180TF
It is my first boat ever and I noticed some cracks in the transom and im worried about them.
Heres the thread I started with info and pics so im hoping you guys can help me out, I plan on bringing my kids fishing with me who are very young so safety is my main concern:

http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=978012

Thanks!

[a6hux]

Trim the motor all the way up and push on the prop. If you get any flexing in the transom you have issues.

[datbasstho]

Trim the motor all the way up and push on the prop. If you get any flexing in the transom you have issues.

Hope I did the test right.
Raised the motor, rocked it up and down from the prop and the transom looked intact and didn’t move without the whole boat moving.

[ECobb91]

I looked at the photos in the original post and a few of those look to be pretty severe but the video seems to show a solid transom. Probably the seller saw the cracks and decided to sell it before the transom rotted or gets soft. I’d be cautious about going full speed with it or putting it under heavy loads. In a perfect world it’d be best to bring it to a repair shop and have them take a look at it for piece of mind. Nothing that can’t be fixed but might cost you a bit of money, if you can’t swing it right away put some epoxy on it to cover the holes and make sure no water can get in.

As as far as the holes where the transducer was, Plug the holes with 5200 marine epoxy. Really get it all the way in the holes and check every so often if you need to reapply it. I’d also suggest Looking into a stern saver block that adheres to the transom and you attach the transducer to that. They are pretty cheap and require No drilling into the transom, you drill right into the block. but make sure you put it in the correct location the first time because it’s meant to be a permanent bond. i installed mine where the old owner had mounted it and now I can’t get depth once I’m on plane because it’s too high

[datbasstho]

I looked at the photos in the original post and a few of those look to be pretty severe but the video seems to show a solid transom. Probably the seller saw the cracks and decided to sell it before the transom rotted or gets soft. I’d be cautious about going full speed with it or putting it under heavy loads. In a perfect world it’d be best to bring it to a repair shop and have them take a look at it for piece of mind. Nothing that can’t be fixed but might cost you a bit of money, if you can’t swing it right away put some epoxy on it to cover the holes and make sure no water can get in.

As as far as the holes where the transducer was, Plug the holes with 5200 marine epoxy. Really get it all the way in the holes and check every so often if you need to reapply it. I’d also suggest Looking into a stern saver block that adheres to the transom and you attach the transducer to that. They are pretty cheap and require No drilling into the transom, you drill right into the block. but make sure you put it in the correct location the first time because it’s meant to be a permanent bond. i installed mine where the old owner had mounted it and now I can’t get depth once I’m on plane because it’s too high

When I asked about the cracks when I was buying it the seller claimed he didn’t use the proper paint for a boat so that’s why it was cracking.
(don’t know if he was lying but I had no idea about stuff like that especially anything about a transom)
Buy ya, it does look pretty sturdy.
As for going full speed, I’m usually not a speed guy even in cars so won’t bother doing that. Especially if I do bring my kids a long.
This is also my first boat and I know bass boats aren’t easy to drive so I will definitely not be speeding at all.

As for the transducer holes, I actually bought the 5200 adhesive and will be repairing. I found a video where the guy fills the hole with it and then screws in stainless screws with more adhesive around the screws.
Is that needed or can I simply just fill the holes with the adhesive and then reapply when needed like you suggested without having to use screws?

And can I use the same 5200 adhesive to use for those cracks on the transom or should I use something else?
And I had no idea about a stern saver and will look into it. Looks like a smart idea.

Thank you you so much for your help, I really appreciate it!

[ECobb91]

That’s definitely not caused by a wrong type of paint haha the wrong type of paint would just fade or peel off. Bass boats aren’t too hard to drive. Yours probably has the same type of steering that mine does so it might be a little hard to turn left because you’re fighting the prop rotation and will free-wheel to the right if you’re not grabbing the wheel but that’s about it. The biggest thing is learning how to adjust the trim so you don’t porpoise. Start with the trim all the way down and when you get on plane start to trim up to lift the nose and a smoother ride. Rough water you trim down a bit until you find a comfortable medium. I’m no expert by any means as I’ve only had my boat for 3 yrs.

i filled the holes on mine with just the epoxy and haven’t had an issue but after you saying the guy put the screws in that kind of makes sense. Plugs the hole and makes sure that it’s water tight. I’d use it on the transom too just as a quick fix since you have some on hand just to keep water out but it’s just a bandaid application to prevent water from getting in. Try flexing the motor like you did in the video but keep an eye on those cracks see if they flex. If they do I’d get an estimate from a repair shop the second financed allow to see if they can strengthen it. The motor flexing and bouncing while trailering can make the cracks expand

[datbasstho]

That’s definitely not caused by a wrong type of paint haha the wrong type of paint would just fade or peel off. Bass boats aren’t too hard to drive. Yours probably has the same type of steering that mine does so it might be a little hard to turn left because you’re fighting the prop rotation and will free-wheel to the right if you’re not grabbing the wheel but that’s about it. The biggest thing is learning how to adjust the trim so you don’t porpoise. Start with the trim all the way down and when you get on plane start to trim up to lift the nose and a smoother ride. Rough water you trim down a bit until you find a comfortable medium. I’m no expert by any means as I’ve only had my boat for 3 yrs.

i filled the holes on mine with just the epoxy and haven’t had an issue but after you saying the guy put the screws in that kind of makes sense. Plugs the hole and makes sure that it’s water tight. I’d use it on the transom too just as a quick fix since you have some on hand just to keep water out but it’s just a bandaid application to prevent water from getting in. Try flexing the motor like you did in the video but keep an eye on those cracks see if they flex. If they do I’d get an estimate from a repair shop the second financed allow to see if they can strengthen it. The motor flexing and bouncing while trailering can make the cracks expand

Lol ya I figured that about the paint. I got such a good deal on the boat I had to take it.
And I’m sure I’ll get the hang of driving it in faster speeds and will keep in mind what you said about the trim adjustments.

Also, I did keep an eye on the cracks when I had my buddy rock the motor (not recorded) and it looked like the cracks didn’t flex so that’s a good sign.
Ill add some 5200 to it and definitely keep an eye on it every time I use the boat.
I also have a transom saver so I’m sure that helps a little keeping pressure off while towing.