2011 Puma 250XS with dual axle trailer
Just back from chasing greenies and was washing/wiping down boat,
When sprayed wheels down, brakes rims were hot (water smoked) from hour long trip home.
Upon closer inspection, bearing caps were barely warm but outer rim was black from brake dust and hot to touch.
i assume brake pad sticking? only one side seemed hot.
Any idea where to start?
It would take a lot of heat to get that bearing cap hot. If from a caliper. But it does sound like you've got a sticky caliper. May be as simple as a good cleaning and greasing the slides on that caliper.
2017 Phoenix 819
2016 200ProXS, s/n 2B359849, Mod 1200P73BD
Also be sure the cable is released using the tab under the coupler. People step between the truck and trailer and get their heel caught on the brake cable pulling it, this loads the brake system and it doesn’t release. It could also be a sticking caliper.
As a matter of fact, I did step as you suggest. Now that I recall the cable was disconnected when I arrived home. I assume the tab under the coupler just needs to be flipped back?
It may be too late. You may have burned up the pads and it could require new pads. You can try it and see if the brakes work.
Not everyone would own up to admitting what you have.
BCB
This is referring to the thinner metal wire you hook to the towing vehicle along with the bigger trailer chains isn't it? This is an emergency brake release in case trailer was ever separated from tow vehicle at high speeds. If you hit this with your foot and yanked it out several inches, there is specific reference of what to do in your trailer manual.Originally Posted by MDBASSNPRO
That wire always stresses me out when I have just jacked my trailer off the truck hitch and getting ready to push it back in my garage. If that metal loop catch on the hitch or any part of the truck while I'm push away, that would not be good.
Correct in deed. I will dive in tonight but I did confirm there is no target on the small reset latch (under the coupler). For now, brake dust on a hot rim is the obvious sign. Now part of my visual walk down inspection every time before beginning trailering I will reach under to check reset latch.
Correct... it stresses all of us out and depressing the tab under the coupler releases the pressure on the cable. We suggest you depress the tab every time you’ve been at a ramp condition or when connecting to travel. It’s simple and unless you pull it out it should be able to release, by pressing the tab.
Thanks BCB. I am putting a label on top my coupler to remind me to do the check when hitching up.
Might be worth a BCB SOP installation. The knowledge base of the BCB owners is impressive, and one should never stop learning especially when safety is involved.
Talked to UFP and suggested a targeted design to prevent the unknown. They hear more stories of people pulling away after trailer disconnected with wire still connected and forgetting to reset the tab.
Where is this tab you guys are talking about? I noticed mine making a scrubbing sound the other day. I never knew about the tab. I thought the cable just locked the breaks when pulled on. Didn't realize it had to be released.
Me neither. Post #8 is where I got confused.
There are labels on the Side of the couplers and also on the safety cables when new.
We will be adding more labeling as well as other important information in the future.
These are both the new Premium and previous couplers.
BCB
D632D3A8-A6B8-430E-A64E-8931212EBBD2.jpeg
So when checking, you pull the tab out or push it back in? I know, Im an idiot for not understanding.
Push it in (up toward the tongue). If the cable was pulled, you can feel it pop back into position.
2008 Bass Cat Pantera Classic
2014 Mercury Pro XS 200
Clarity:
You can not feel the cable pop back into position if it was stretched hard as the roller in the coupler has a U radius about the same size of your little finger end. Thus the cable gains that radius memory and WILL NOT return if stretched and pulled hard. Only replacement of the cable will allow a return of the brake master cylinder and removal of the pressure in that circumstance.
A little pull on the cable can be recovered. We have all had the cable wrap the trailer hitch ball and get pulled, left the S hook in place and forgot, stepped on it and more. All of those are different tensions based on your forces and all require a different form of recovery on the tension and memory of the cable kinking.
BCB
Last edited by Bass Cat Boats; 05-10-2019 at 08:41 AM.
Absolutely hit this link to see the image:
http://www.bbcboards.net/attachment....5&d=1557370702
And Good looking new couplers too.
On my 2011 lift on tab makes reset that’s a light “click” Sound due to that light pull of cable.
I just posted my issue regarding this on General Bassboat Topics. When I push the tab in (up towards trailer while laying on my back) it goes in and comes back to it's original position when I release pressure. Is that what it's supposed to do. I'm hearing a rubbing in my back right wheel and trying to get on the road. My metal breakaway cord has never been pulled out exposing the metal clip or bead the manual references. A grinding sound can be heard by simply driving the trailer 10 ft forward or backward. I've pushed on that reset tab under coupler. Still hear grinding. I have no idea if my problem is even related to the breakaway cord up by coupler. Anything I can check under trailer?
We would try to reset the cable and it is slightly visible from underneath. The coupler has to have tension on it, especially with the road miles this trailer has. The cable could be taught underneath and not allowing travel even though the clip is still inside the coupler on the trailer. We would try feeding it and see if the pulley has a kink holding the cable. The pulley radius, which the cable runs on, is smaller than the end of your little finger and any kink would hold pressure.
Things could bind up from miles of age, though usually something causes it.
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