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  1. #1
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    ‘94 Foxfire 180 VF w/Suzuki DT150S BASS help set up for optimum performance.

    Jack Plates:

    So I have read some different threads about jack plates which leave me wondering what would be the best jack plate for my set up and if I would even benefit from installing one. I see there are many different manufactured jack plates in both manual and hydro adjust.

    Hydraulic Steering:

    Is hydraulic steering generally safer when working correctly and matched properly to the boat and horse power rating? I ordered a Sea Star Pro hydro Steering kit and have begun the install. The old cables were always very hard to operate “very stiff” and dangerous as well because if I ever let go of the wheel under power the boat would hook a hard right turn. It happened once and it was scary enough that I never made the mistake of letting go of the wheel under power ever again. This was my first boat and it was purchased used with no documentation or literature.

    Hydro Foils:

    Would I benefit from using a hydro foil and if so what kind of hydro foil would be a good fit. I have seen home made hydro foils out of thin gauge aluminum like found on street signs. They are very thin and strong so in theory they would produce less drag. I also read that Hydro foils are suppose to ride up out of the water when on plane. Is that at any speed or only when on plane at WOT?

    Prop:

    I don’t know what size and pitch prop I have at the moment. It looks factory as far as I can tell. I know it’s stainless steel. The Suplimental service manual I just purchased suggests starting with a 26 and 28 is the largest prop suggested by Suzuki.

    Keel Protection:

    I have been wanting to instal some type of keel protection. I have got several little nicks and chips on the keel from running around in the Stockton Area Delta as well as from beaching the boat. Will keel gaurdes slow the boat or decrease performance in any way noticeable? If they are good to use who makes the best keel guard?

    This is all I can think of at the moment. I’ll be redoing the seats, carpet and gel coat later once I get the boat dialed in.

  2. Charger Boats Moderator TOUCH OF CLASS's Avatar
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    #2
    Yes hydraulic steering is less likely to pull and electric steering is even more for giving.A 6 inch plate say a cmc or pro hi jacker is perfect .Prop is based on setup a non jack boat is different than a jacked boat. And set back will also have different props.

  3. Member Delta Bass Fool's Avatar
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    #3
    Thank you Touch of Class. So does a jacked engine typically have to ride higher up for less drag because of how the water flows behind the boat further back?

    I have my eye on the T. H. MARINE JP-6PW-DP pro hi-jacker 6in. Are these jack plates basically one style fits all boats in the horse power they are rated for. Meaning are the hole patterns all the same on all boats or am I going to have to drill into my Transom?
    Last edited by Delta Bass Fool; 04-15-2019 at 12:45 AM.

  4. Banned
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    #4
    Jackplate yes....you can not get a hulls full potential without one.
    The holes are standard they will not drill holes in the transom.

    Keel guard....wouldn't own a boat without it. And no it will not effect the boat in anyway it is out of the water when on plane.

    Foil.....is a bandaid for a bad setup.

    Prop...personal preference depending on what you want out of the boat. Trophy+ is a good all around 4 blade prop that I have found Charger hulls like. Good top end speed and can be fine tuned to get a great hole shot with the vent plugs.

    Steering...personal choice most guys are running hydraulic I personally like the old style duel cables. I think you can feel more then with hydraulic systems.

    Charger hulls are simple don't over think them and don't be shy about asking questions these guys will help with anything.

  5. Member Delta Bass Fool's Avatar
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    #5
    Thank you jarhead 175 :)

  6. Member Delta Bass Fool's Avatar
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    #6
    Here is the chart from the Suzuki Supplementary Service manual for all the suggested props " * note for Bass boats the manual states 3 x 14-1/2 x 26 ". I really don't know anything about picking the right prop or how to go about renting or finding a place that would lend out props for trial purposes in figuring out the best prop for my type of driving. Naturally I like blasting across the lakes but am thinking since the optimum fuel efficiency is between 2500 -3500 RPS for this motor that I need to find a prop that will maximize top end speed with in these RPM's. How does a 4 blade prop differ in power and fuel efficiency to a 3 blade prop with the same diameter and pitch? As is, my boat launches out of the hole onto a plane fairly quick provided I punch it.

    Other considerations for Hydro Foil bandaid. With my present set up I have to get on plane now and at least maintain between 23-26 MPH to stay on plane. If I do anything less than plane under power not idle or trolling speed the nose of the boat wants to wheelie really bad and makes it hard to see to drive and unsafe.

    20190414_211613.jpg
    Last edited by Delta Bass Fool; 04-15-2019 at 12:53 AM.

  7. Charger Boats Moderator TOUCH OF CLASS's Avatar
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    #7
    You can try a tail see what happens ,props you can try a tempest or trophy .Yes the bigger the jack plate the higher you can run the motor.What prop and speed and rpms do you have now?

  8. Member Delta Bass Fool's Avatar
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    #8
    Currently I get about 55 MPH at about 5000 to 5200 RPM. I’ll go pull the prop today to see what I have.

    So would a Fury be a waste of money

  9. Member Delta Bass Fool's Avatar
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    #9
    Ok prop is 3 x 14.3/4 x 25

  10. Banned
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    #10
    Call Mark@317-398-9294
    He can tell you exactly what you need in the way of a prop.

  11. Member Delta Bass Fool's Avatar
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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by jarhead175 View Post
    Call Mark@317-398-9294
    He can tell you exactly what you need in the way of a prop.
    Thank you jarhead

    I will call him when I get my overheating under control and back on the water again. I just found out today that the Suzuki DT150S has a broken head bolt on the number 6 cylinder :( Who knows what I'll discover once I get the head off. Hopefully no more bolts snap off while pulling the cylinder head.

    Any tips for how to get the head bolts to come out any easier? Maybe run the engine to normal temps before trying to pull the bolts?