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  1. #1
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    2004 Johnson 150 annoying problem

    If this has been covered on here before I apologize. From reading other forums it seems to be a common problem without much of a common solution.
    2004 Johnson 150 with 144 hours. I got motor 4 years ago with only 92 hours on it. It's always had this problem.
    Fresh off trailer.....starts great.....quick start works great....idles down.....idles in gear good.....takes off good.....runs great. Get to spot.......idles in gear good. Shut it off. Fish anywhere from 1/2 hour to several hours. Go to move spots. Starts good.....idles good. Put in gear.......to idle out of stumpy cove......will just lose rpms steadily till it dies. Starts right back up without choking. Will idle perfect.....till put in gear.....then loses rpm's and dies. Over and over.
    Or.......if I'm in open water. Starts good. Idles good. Put in gear....hit gas.....immediatley stalls. Starts right back up good. Drop in gear....hit gas......immediatley stalls. May do it 2 or 3 times......or 10. Finally it will go and run great......come off plane.....and will idle in gear forever. Till I stop and fish somewhere for awhile.....and try to move again. Same thing.

    Anyone got any advice for me or ran across this before? Thanks

  2. Member JoePA's Avatar
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    #2
    Is that a carbed Engine or a DFI (Ficht) engine? What is the model number?
    Joe Galada - Tamaqua, PA
    2004 Ranger 521VX - Yamaha 250 SHO

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    #3
    J150GLSR
    Carbed

  4. Member JoePA's Avatar
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    #4
    I wold check the roller adjustment for the timing. I believe its pinned at the top of this forum. Also if thats not it you may need to adjust the air mixutre screws, if that year has them. One of the gurus will chime in but it sounds like its timing or fuel issue.
    Joe Galada - Tamaqua, PA
    2004 Ranger 521VX - Yamaha 250 SHO

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    #5
    Ok. So I read above pinned post about setting timing roller. Then went and looked at my motor. My timing roller is about as far from the timing lever as it could be. Yet my throttle roller is very close to the throttle lever. Maybe 1/32".
    So......is the idea that both the throttle lever and the timing lever need to move at the same time? When it gets more fuel it needs more timing advance to burn It? Is that what is meant by sucronizing throttle and timing?

  6. Member JoePA's Avatar
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    #6
    Yes, normally timing should start to come in then throttle. Every engine is set up different but I think I read that your engine they should be in sync. if timing comes on before fuel I would say that's ok too but check with the experts.
    Joe Galada - Tamaqua, PA
    2004 Ranger 521VX - Yamaha 250 SHO

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    #7
    Hi, welcome to the forum. You are correct that the timing and carbs must open at exactly the same time. First look at the roller that opens the carbs, it should have a clear or yellowing plastic sleeve over a smaller black roller, these crack and fall off. A piece of clear 3/8 hose from the hardware will work fine, I gave up on the OEM sleeve and have used the clear hose piece for several years. If the sleeve is there a small gap at the carb roller is OK, just adjust the timing roller so that the timing and carbs are in sync. This will work if you have a hot foot, the shift and throttle adjustment with the regular exterior or built in control box and no hot foot is different. You can adjust the idle orifices on the carbs if you need to, I like the idle RPM to be about 800, with the boat in the water, in gear, boat unrestrained. In your case, syncing the timing and carbs shouldn't change the idle RPM's.

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    #8
    Ok. Thanks for responding. On my throttle roller. It is there and appears to be in good shape. Has about 1/32" gap between roller and cam. So so should be good there?
    Timing roller is very far from timing lever. So I'm gonna move it to about 1/32" from lever. That should get me close to both levers doing there thing at the same time. I am running a hot foot. Insure hope its something that simple that fixes this issue.

    As far as my idle in gear rpms.......im at about 600. Can you describe the idle orifices I need to adjust and how to go about adjusting them?
    Last edited by Scot Ferguson; 04-15-2019 at 05:50 AM.

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    #9
    Also......i went from a regular control box throttle to the hot foot myself. Just replaced cable.......and adjusted it where I thought it should be. Just where throttle roller had a small gap so butterfly could close fully. And so at wot was just touching the hard stop. Then adjusted my stops on the hot foot. I didnt really touch fool with any adjustments on the motor. Is there some other procedure I should have followed?

  10. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #10
    Did run fine prior to adding the hot foot?

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    #11
    No. It has done the stall on take off since I've owned it. 4 years.

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    #12
    So....if this is a common enough problem.......that it is a pinned post, what causes it? What causes the timing roller to be so far from timing lever? Mis adjusted from factory? Something worn?

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    #13
    With the hand throttle, the throttle and shift cable installation will put the timing roller about 3/8, or a little more, away from the timing arm. This is to make sure that the motor is shifted into gear before any throttle is given, saves the gears. Now, following the service manual for installing the shift and throttle cable, the timing and carbs will open at the same time. Close enough is no good here, the throttle and timing "MUST" open at the same time. If the timing roller is away from the arm more than 3/8 or so, I suspect incorrect adjustment. I think at this time it might be a good idea to get the real OEM service manual for your motor, it will show you how to adjust the idle and really anything else you would want to work on. You may be able to down load a manual from the sticky at the top of this page.
    Last edited by 316jughead; 04-15-2019 at 09:09 AM.

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    #14
    I got the factory service manual. I'll take the time to read it.

  15. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Scot Ferguson View Post
    So....if this is a common enough problem.......that it is a pinned post, what causes it? What causes the timing roller to be so far from timing lever? Mis adjusted from factory? Something worn?
    Improper rigging in most cases and it also happens when the transition is made from the hand control to the hot foot.

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    #16
    Ok. I did make that transition. But please correct me if I'm wrong. If that transition was done incorrectly........wouldnt both the throttle cam and roller.......AND the timing lever and roller be off? Since it a hard linkage......if one was off the other would be also?

  17. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Scot Ferguson View Post
    Ok. I did make that transition. But please correct me if I'm wrong. If that transition was done incorrectly........wouldnt both the throttle cam and roller.......AND the timing lever and roller be off? Since it a hard linkage......if one was off the other would be also?
    No most times what happens is the throttle cable is just attached to the linkage post and the cable is not properly adjusted leaving the gap. You need to push the linkage so it makes contact then install the cable and adjust the trunion nut so it slips easily into the cradle. Then if there is a gap the timing and throttle linkage is adjusted.. As far as your bog goes adjust your idle jets out one full turn counter clock wise on all 6 carbs.

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    #18
    Ok.....so here is an update on my issue. The reason my timing roller is so far from the timing lever is.......the adjustment screw isn't holding timing roller arm tight. I can by hand move the timing roller arm back and forth throughout the entire adjustment slot. I moved the roller up against the timing lever and when I pushed throttle.....it just pushed timing roller arm back in the slot till it hit the end of the slot then had the resistance it needed to move timing lever. Looks like it might be as simple as moving to where it needs to be and tightening screw down. I couldn't tighten screw this evening. I thought it was a tamper proof torx......but it's actually a tamper proof 5 point security screw. So I'll pick a set of those up. Hopefully it will tighten up and isn't stripped or weak threads in the plastic piece the screw goes into.

  19. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #19
    They are called Penta Lobe.

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    #20
    I see that now. I am a heavy truck mechanic by trade. These outboards are a different ctitter.....and I must admit......somewhat intimidating. Just because I don't wanna mess something up worse. I'm gonna pick up a set of pentalobe bits today. See if the screw will tighten up. Thanks for the help thus far.

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