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  1. Member Delta Bass Fool's Avatar
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    #21
    Ok I have a little problem now. One sensor has 3 wires The $50.00 sensor and the $70 sensor has two wires. When I test the sensor with three wires at 71F between one set of the three wires I get a reading of 2.22 kΩ which looks normal and when I test another set of wires I get a reading of 79.6 kΩ. last when I test the third option between wires I get OL.

    Now on the other sensor I get no reading at all. Additionally when I set my meter for continuity with a beep I get no continuity and no beep. I'm not sure if that means the sensor is dead or what. I have to dig into the manual again to see if it specifies what wires I should be testing on what sensor. and also find out what it says about each sensor. From what I recall it does not specify any differences between the two sensors. So this leads to more confusion on my part.

    When I pull the lower unit "soon" I will plug a hose into the line coming form the pump housing up into the block with the T-stats out and turn the water on from my garden hose and see what kind of flow I get at each T-stat exit port.

  2. Member Delta Bass Fool's Avatar
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    #22
    Ok no major discoveries as of yet. A guy at browns point informed me that I can unplug the green wires of each sensor one at a time to see if the alarm stops. The port side has a purple wire that needs to stay connected along with the black wire. I told him I was trying to get a Ohms reading of the sensors while out of the boat and he informed me that the heat sensors only make continuity when they have reached the over heat set temperature. Does any one know about this ?

    I got some garden hoses hooked up the the T-stat housings so the water exiting the top of the engine will flow outside the engine which will make it easy to see how much flow I am getting per cylinder bank. I am thinking I should get two five gallon buckets and see if both buckets fill up evenly or if one side is so restricted that it does not fill evenly with the other side.

    I ran a new plastic water pressure line from the engine to the helm and installed the pressure gauge on the dash. I also installed a different monitor gauge from ebay. It was suppose to be new but I can tell it’s not even close to new. I still have yet to test it. I’ll probably give it a try some time tomorrow.

    I also pulled the manual steering crap out of the boat and fed the new Seastar Pro hydro lines from the helm to the engine. I still need to order the water pump but I am waiting to see if I will be needing any other parts for the cooling system before Implace am order. Tomorrow I think I will pull the lower unit off and hook up a garden hose to the water feeder tube that runs from the pump to the bottom of the engine block and see what kind of flow I get with just garden hose water pressure. If everything looks good there then I will put the T-stats back in and reinstall the lower unit and start it up to see what kind op psi I get at the gauge. I got the meter that goes up to 35 psi.

  3. Member Delta Bass Fool's Avatar
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    #23
    Made some progress today. I pulled the lower unit and put a garden hose on the tube from the pump to the block and checked water pressure at both t-stat housings and I had plenty of flow through both T-stat housings. Next I installed the T stats so I could check the the water pressure gauge I just installed. I get about roughly 14-15 psi at the gauge with the garden hose on almost full blast.

    Next I checked the new meter gauge on the dash and all the lights are working from what I can tell and I left the light green wire unplugged from the port side with just the black and purple wires plugged into the heat sensor and the gauge on the dash indicated an over heat problem code 1-4 with the series of flashes from the Check Engine light. So I plugged light green wire back into the port side wiring and tried turning the key on again. This time I did not get any flashing code for an alarm. The two wire Starboard side sensor was left unplugged the whole time and it did not set off any code.

    There was a little cracked cylindrical boot at the rear of the lower unit.

    It is #20 in this parts diagram " https://www.boats.net/catalog/suzuki...-200efi-150efi "

    I glued it back together using some super glue and some baking soda to make it cure fast. Then put a dab of liquid All laundry detergent on the tube that sticks out the bottom of the leg towards where the skegg type anode mounts. I put some inside the rubber cylindrical boot as well so the two would slide together fairly easy. I'm not sure what that boot does but I'm ordering a new one with the water pump.

    I Think I will try to set up the Starboard side temp sensor so that I can unplug it fairly quick while the engine is running to see if it cures the alarm next time it goes off.

    I'm getting closer :) Here is short quick clip that took me forever to make and upload. It's not much. I'm no video expert :/

    Last edited by Delta Bass Fool; 04-15-2019 at 11:41 PM.

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    #24
    2018 Bass Cat Lynx w/Suzuki 250SS.

  5. Member Delta Bass Fool's Avatar
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    #25
    Well I made an interesting discovery. When at idle I get no water pressure at the gauge. The gauge starts to move at about 1150-1200 RPM.

    I also noticed the Port Cylinder Bank was getting upwards of 160F where the temp sensor is housed. I'm not sure if this is normal or not. That sensor is suppose to set off an alarm at 220F as far as I know. The port side does get hotter than the Starboard side.

    Both of the Thermostat housings stayed with in about 10F of each other the port side hotter at about 126F and the Starboard side at about 116F.

    Not sure what to think at the moment. I ran the engine with out the Starboard side temp sensor plugged in but even if it was plugged in I don't think it would send an alarm unless the sensor is faulty. I shut it down when I saw 160 on the port side.

    Does any one know what the water pressure should be while at idle? The Top Port Cylinder seems to be getting the hottest.
    Last edited by Delta Bass Fool; 05-26-2019 at 12:56 PM.

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    #26
    Usually when at idle, the PSI should be around 1 to 2 PSI at a minimum, at least on Mercury's. I've seen high as 3 after a new water pump was installed.
    2018 Bass Cat Lynx w/Suzuki 250SS.

  7. Member Delta Bass Fool's Avatar
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    #27
    I will have to check the psi when I get it all back together and out on the water. I am wondering if I went with too high of a psi gauge. I may have another one that I bought before this one but can’t remember if I did or didn’t return it but iirc it only goes to 15 psi which may give me better accurate reading at lower psi like when idling IDK. I’ll see if I can find it in the millions of boxes I have in the garage.

  8. Member Delta Bass Fool's Avatar
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    #28
    I found the other 15 psi water gauge. I also did some more testing with t stats in and water tubes unplugged from T stat housings to see how water is flowing while running with T stats in. I will post some videos later. The Port side seems to get higher temperature readings near the sensor and also starts flowing water sooner than the starboard side. Next test will be pull the lower unit and test running with garden hose at different water pressures.

  9. Member Delta Bass Fool's Avatar
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    #29
    Made another pretty big discovery by accident. I was moving the hose clamp on the bottom of the hose for the thermostat hose and bumped into a head bolt by accident to discover it was loose. I though oh wow could it really be that easy as I though to my self? So I grabbed my torque wrench and 12mm socket to start tightening the bolt. Guess again....

    Broken head bolt all the way at the bottom #6 cylinder. All the other bolts seem to be tight and very difficult to loosen. I did not try to hard to loosen the other bolts. I don't need more broken head bolts than I already have but from what I have read the Suzuki's like to break off head bolts.

    With all this ^ information I am wondering what is the best way to remove the head bolts. Run the engine until it is hot then try to loosen them little by little? I am thinking I could probably get the bottom snapped off bolt out using a mig or tig welder to build up some material on the broken stud down in the block which by looking at it, my guess is it's probably broken off flush at the top of the cylinder.
    Last edited by Delta Bass Fool; 04-17-2019 at 09:52 PM.

  10. Member Delta Bass Fool's Avatar
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    #30
    Water flow with Thermostats installed.



    Water flow with out Thermostats installed.



    Discovery of Broken Head bolt.


  11. Member Delta Bass Fool's Avatar
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    #31
    Compression readings look with in range all are with in 10% of each other. Thinking I should do a leak down test on Cyl #6.

    Cyl 1: 105 PSI
    Cyl 2: 102 PSI
    Cyl 3: 101 PSI
    Cyl 4: 100 PSI
    Cyl 5: 104 PSI
    Cyl 6: 100 PSI
    '94 Charger Foxfire 180VF '96 Suzuki DT150S BASS

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    #32
    Yeah, it wouldn't hurt. Plus I'd try and use an easy out and get your head bolt out and put a new one in to be on the safe side. But it's looking more like you have a sensor issue IMO.
    2018 Bass Cat Lynx w/Suzuki 250SS.

  13. Member Delta Bass Fool's Avatar
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    #33
    I got the HF leak down tester and all cylinders checked out cold and warmed up. This has me stumped. Number 1 cylinder and number 6 cylinder spark plugs did look cleaner than the rest of the engine. I got a reading of 170+ today at the port side sensor :o

    I'll have to pull the whole head off to get the head bolt out and god knows how many more head bolts will break trying to do that.
    Last edited by Delta Bass Fool; 04-18-2019 at 10:10 PM.
    '94 Charger Foxfire 180VF '96 Suzuki DT150S BASS

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    #34
    I'm enjoying following your progress. Keep it coming. I have a 98 DT200 and didn't know about the head bolt issue. I'm due for a top end rebuild soon and busted head bolts sure would complicate that.

  15. Member Delta Bass Fool's Avatar
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    #35
    I am waiting for an answer from a guy on a welding forum that knows a marine mechanic. This guy is suppose to ask the mechanic the best way to get the head bolts out with out snapping them off. If they are very stubborn I was thinking to cut the heads off so the studs will remain long enough to put some heat on the studs and tap on them with a ball peen hammer or something while gripping the studs with some good vise grips and seeing if I can't get the studs to work free that way. I really don't want to have to heli coil the cylinder jugs just to look into the water passages and make sure there are no blockages and or blown head gaskets.

    I did get all my running lights working on the boat today. Got the trim up/down switch at the bow under the trolling motor working again. had to trace the wires all the way back to the throttle/forward/reverse lever where the tilt/trim button is. Took a while but I got it figured out. Two wires were unplugged between the front switch and the throttle/forward/reverse lever. I should have a trolling motor recessed foot pedal pan arriving tomorrow so that will be going in as well. I'm taking my time and getting all the bugs worked out of it since I purchased it. Once I get the boat all solid electrically and mechanically again, I'll start on reupholstering the seats and laying new carpet as well as doing the LED UV black light strip all the way around under the rub rail for night fishing. I'm taking my time and doing it right this time. I got the Sea Star Pro steering installed and can tell that thing is going to make driving the boat way more enjoyable. Also planning on getting a 6" jack plate.
    '94 Charger Foxfire 180VF '96 Suzuki DT150S BASS

  16. Member Delta Bass Fool's Avatar
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    #36
    Little update. I have been having an issue with the fuel strainer bowl not staying full of fuel and the primer bulb not staying stiff after the engine is running. I replaced all the fuel lines from the tank to the strainer bowl on the engine prior to the low psi fuel pumps. I did not touch the fuel lines after the strainer bowl to the low psi pumps and up to the vapor separator. I'm thinking I'm going to have to take the low psi fuel pumps apart to see if the pump diaphragms are leaking or defective in any way. That is about the last place I can be loosing psi and letting air into the strainer bowl. Oh yeah and the strainer bowl itself could have a crack that I'm not seeing or not sealing properly. So I think I'll inspect the pump diaphragms and replace as needed as well as replace the strainer bowl and see if that fixes the problem. Still over heating as well. It's looking like the cylinder head may have to come off.

    Here is a quick video of the fuel line I installed and a really quick shot of the fuel pump water separator and the mounting block I glassed into the bilge area.

    '94 Charger Foxfire 180VF '96 Suzuki DT150S BASS

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    #37
    I'm up in Redding with a '96 186TF with a DT150 Super Six. I'll be looking for your posts in future. Esp. when you do the rubrail LED's...as I plan on doing that for mine.
    A goal without a plan is just a dream.

  18. Member Delta Bass Fool's Avatar
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    #38
    Well I hope you are not in a hurry. My money is pretty funny these days. I'm doing as much as I can afford as fast as possible w/o rocking the boat with my other half.
    '94 Charger Foxfire 180VF '96 Suzuki DT150S BASS

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    #39
    I got LU and impeller, fuel send, tach wiring to do 1st. And also married, so I get the boat-rockin thing.
    A goal without a plan is just a dream.

  20. Member Delta Bass Fool's Avatar
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    #40
    Yeah I already spent enough to rock the boat but these things don’t fix them selves so I used a little credit for some of the recent purchases. I could easily spend another $4k on seating upholstery, carpet, lighting, stereo, another fishing graph, spare tire, trailer hitch swing away modification etc and still not have a boat worth much until I get it running right or so it don’t over heat any more. I hope I get another season out of it. Honestly I’m getting tired of chasing the over heating issue.
    '94 Charger Foxfire 180VF '96 Suzuki DT150S BASS

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