Starting on a transom repair on my Fishhawk.
Pulled the motor and was able to cut the cap off transom, I will hopefully pull the board out this weekend.
Starting on a transom repair on my Fishhawk.
Pulled the motor and was able to cut the cap off transom, I will hopefully pull the board out this weekend.
Does the wood extend down past the rivets and splashwell drain tubes? Curious if you'll have to remove any of those to get the old wood out/install new transom...?
Rivets are actually allen heads, so them and the splash well tubes have to be taken out.
Well lol, I got it out tonight. I will post pictures tomorrow. Btw Holy crap the hardest part so far was getting the two allen heads out of the foam that were buried under the splash well. Jeeeze!! Also removing splash tubes was simple to use a door skin crimper and lite tap of a hammer.
I lifted the rotted transom out by using screw in bolt eyes that drilled into the transom and then ran ratchet straps over the ceiling joist lol. She split right in to the center was completely rotted through.
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Last edited by 218_fishing; 03-31-2019 at 10:59 PM.
You and I are doing the same project at the same time, on the same brand of boat. Oh what fun it is
Lol so how are you going to deal with the touch up paint? I think I am going to re spray the back half a different color.
Last edited by 218_fishing; 04-01-2019 at 07:25 AM.
Well some more photos.
Next steps will be to make a new transom board and then weld all the little holes up.
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I am doing exactly the same thing to a 2006 1850 fishhawk right now, I was planning to get paint mixed from the paint codes on crestliners website and paint the whole back to the edges and hope it's close enough.
I'm impressed you got it out in one piece
1997 Charger 186 TF
1997 Yamaha ProV 175
Actually she folded/tote in the middle but it’s close enough to make a good template
I assume those two big washer looking things are the lower engine mount reinforcements? Hard to tell in the pic... how are they constructed? They tubes, or...?
Also- What's your plan for new transom? Marine ply with cloth/epoxy coating? Or composite like Coosa board?
Last edited by CastingCall; 04-02-2019 at 09:29 PM.
Yeah those are just washers, they are stuck into the wood. lol
So the new plan is going to do 3 layers of 3/4 ACX with epoxy coating between them and epoxy on the outside (and any holes). I thought about Coosa Board and SeaCast but to be honest, I don't see the need. If I keep the boat in the water 24x7 or fished 365 maybe then I could justified it. But were in Minnesota are boats get used 5-7 months out of the year, I store it inside and I have fan blowing in/on the deck when it gets rain on. I am adding wave whackers since this boat sits low in the transom area, then I am going 3m 5200 silicone any holes, Epoxy transom and I would accept to get another 20 years out of this transom. So to me is not a big deal to do the wood again.
Sounds like you've got the right plan! Should outlast the rest of the boat with that construction.
This year, we'll be lucky to get 5 months of boating weather at this rate.
Doing the same thing on a 89 sea nymph bass attacker. But I am going with coosa blue water 26. Put a 2013 four stroke on the back and the transom got a 1/2 inch swell from the weight of the motor. when I pulled the transom out it had no rot. Just something to consider if you plan on upgrading to a newer four stroke.
Yeah that is actually good one to think about. I got the epoxy order yesterday and I also order 3M 4200 instead of the 5200. I think I also have the color picked out for the repaint.
All the epoxy has arrive and I am waiting on one more major order to come in today and then it will be off to the races to finish this bad boy up.
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Getting closer, I have one more side of epoxy to do.
Yesterday I was able to get the boat out and remove most of the wet foam and then I pressure washer the bilge to get the rest of the crap removed. Next up is one more side of epoxy and then let it dry and then start hammering in all the hardware.
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A tip the composite boat builders use: Drill all known through-holes oversized (1/2” or so) then fill them with thickened epoxy.
When you redrill the epoxy to normal diameter, you’ll have a completely sealed hole - no chance of water intrusion into the wood laminate inside the hole. Something to consider doing now, while you’re at this stage and have invested this much time.
Been a crazy few weeks but I have finally finished up the paint work today, tomorrow night I will be hanging the engine.
Hard to tell the paint Urethane 2 part, smoke grey color and 2 coats of heavy clear coat.