Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 25
  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Greenville NC
    Posts
    955

    Restoring a 1987 375v, a two year journey (and continuing)

    Mods, not sure if this belongs in the Ranger forum or the restoration forum. Or both.

    This post chronicles a two year restoration project on a 1987 Ranger 375v. I posted bits of pieces on my social media and other forums, but I figured that you guys would appreciate a complete retrospective. Hopefully what I document here will be of some help, or at the very least, of some entertainment. I'm not the first person to restore these great boats and I certainly won't be the last. I've split this up into categories on the boat I fixed. It won't be chronological. The work was not continuous mostly split up into two parts, early spring 2018 and early spring 2019, as I wanted to use it as much as possible

    ************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************

    Background

    Ever since I started bass fishing, I wanted a bass boat. I humped the shores as a kid. In college and a little after, I bought a kayak. Lots of people might've stopped there. Kayak fishing is taking off and constantly evolving. But me? I had to have that bass boat, needed to be able to feel like I could go anywhere. Wanted something to hold all my tackle. Wanted the fish finders, the trolling motor. Wanted the satisfaction of pulling fish out of the livewell, not even necessarily for tournaments, just for pictures. Wanted to hear that motor turn up, get on pad. Nothing I'm saying here is particularly unique, I mean this is a bass boat forum and we all had that itch.

    Now bass boats are not cheap. We like to pretend that throwing down 50, 60, 70, f***, 80k towards a boat ain't no thang. But it's no shame to admit even a 20k new aluminum boat is a big purchase. So around February of 2018, after months of waiting and searching, I found a potential candidate. I wanted a used boat, something for cheap that looked like crap, but was a diamond in the rough. A gentleman was selling a 1987 Ranger 375v for $2200 that belonged to his son. It had a same year Yamaha Pro V 150. Due to some various obstacles, he had to sell the boat. The picture was blurry, and he made it clear that the boat was NOT in good condition. But $2200 is hard to pass up. It was at least worth a 20 minute drive.








    I don't have a lot of detailed pictures of the original state, but it's not hard to tell that it was a mess cosmetically. The owner left it in a field for 5 years with a tattered boat cover covering it.

    -The carpet so bad it would have been better to not have any at all. Chunks missing, discolored, torn etc.
    -The middle seat was completely rotten and could not be salvaged. I suspected the other seats had some rot as well.
    -The wiring seemed to be shot to hell, a lot of switches didn't work.
    -The fuel lines also were completely worn from ethanol and would have to be replaced. Water separating filter too.
    -Trim and tilt did not work. The seals were leaking and the owner said I would have to purchase new caps and seals
    -Trolling motor was in a barely usable state. Fish finders were 20 years old at least. So yeah those would have to be replaced as well
    -The cover apparently didn't do shit as the entire boat was oxidized.
    -Boat was not sitting at a good angle and had a ton of rain water just sitting in the bilge. I jacked it up a little higher and watched water pour out to my amusement
    -pedestal seats and pedestals needed to be trashed and replaced

    As we were going over the boat you could see the owner (his name was Gary) deflate more and more. There were so many issues, who in their right f'ing mind would buy something like this. Just to get it on the water would require a ton of work. Every sign screamed to walk away. Fortunately for Gary he was dealing with a 26 year old lacking in sense. More importantly, there were a few very critical points that kept me interested:

    -The water in the bilge was alarming, but it also told me there weren't any leaks. I had inspected under the hull before and it was dry, and in pretty decent condition.
    -I checked the transom the best I could. Brought a tiny hammer, manually lifted the motor and pounced on it. No indications of any flex. I damn near bounced that boat off the trailer. Also important, as you can see in the pictures, the transom didn't have any sign of damage or cracks. These Rangers man.....
    -You can see in the pictures the hull was actually in decent shape. Some chips here and there but nothing that couldn't be covered with a keel guard or fixed with marine tex. Overall the hull was in good condition
    -The motor started. Granted, there were some issues that I'm going to explain later, but it started relatively easily.
    -Compression was good. I bought a gauge and taught myself how to do it, so we did it right there on his farm. 110 psi on all cylinders with maybe 1-2 variance. Really good numbers.







    This brings us to a point I've held. A boat is a motor and a hull. If both are sound, then everything else can be replaced or repaired without a lot of fuss. Carpet can be replaced. Accessories can be replaced. Wiring can be routed again (at least in these older boats with forgiving wiring channels). Trolling motors get swapped out. Fuel lines, hydraulic fluid, seats....y'all get the point. This is something that most of you know and I know intimately now since I'm done. However, rewinding two years, this was something I was convincing myself of as I stood there talking to Gary.

    Gary agreed to lower the price to $2000 (as an aside, he was an honest man and down to earth, never got the feeling he wanted to cheat me, which helped me make the purchase). However, due to some circumstances he couldn't lower it any more. After a couple days doing some research, consulting some folks online, I pulled the trigger. This would be a good learning experience and I would gain a ton of knowledge about boats. Or so I told myself. I knew I was taking a risk but I'm young and like I said, I had that bass boat ITCH.

    So now I have a busted looking Ranger sitting on my driveway, with a billion problems. I'm not going to lie, sitting in my car I was feeling VERY overwhelmed. Where do you even start? So I sucked it up and made a list and believe me it was long.

    The goal at this point is to get the boat to a usable state. That would mean getting the bilge pumps working, trim and tilt working, steering hydraulic fluid refilled, and motor up to speed. Being able to run it successfully was the first priority.

    Bilge/Fuel Tanks/Pumps

    First on the list was getting the thing clean. From sitting in a field, it was dirty. I'm surprised I didn't find any critters in there. The bilge was the filthiest so that's where I started.





    Yes, that's the battery tray, covered in sludge. Same with the bilge.



    All cleaned up. You can see the lids had to be wiped down with some mildew eliminating compound. You can also see all the struts were shot to hell. The latches were all toast and rusted.

    With the bilge cleaned, I could finally see the guts and it wasn't that bad. In these older rangers, you have to remove the battery tray to reach the pumps. The bilge pumps (there were two) needed to be replaced, as well as the rear livewell pump (the front livewell I was going to convert into a cooler). The 375v had two gas tanks in the bilge, routed to the tank selector then the water separator. I believe the 360 series had the tanks under or behind the seats. The wiring you can't see but is just under the ledge at the front of the bilge. Accessories are routed through the starboard side and the trolling motor cables are routed port. At this point I figured that the circuit breaker was completely shot and needed to be replaced. The fuel tank sending units were also suspect, with torn gaskets and rough connections. Rust will do that. The original circuit breaker was rusted out. I replaced with a simple 20 amp circuit breaker:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Attachment 357934

    I ended up not replacing the sending units for a year as I had other priorities. However, I did replace the gaskets, which are standard fuel tank 5 hole gaskets you can find anywhere. When I eventually replaced the sending units, I used these:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Attachment 357937


    Most sending units have a swinging lever, and as the fuel level changes the lever swings because it has a cork at the end. I liked this sending unit better however, as it has a sliding marker, which IMO is more accurate. The marker shifts the resistance of the sending unit, and the fuel level gauge essentially moves the dial based on resistance. It's important to make sure the sending unit resistance matches the gauge. The most common range is 33-240 ohms which is what the original sending units had. It's also important to get the correct length of the sending unit. You don't want a unit too long obviously as it won't fit. The recommendation is at least an inch shorter than the height of the tank. This is to account for the plastic tanks expanding and contracting due to heat. If you have aluminum tanks, half an inch buffer is sufficient. I opted for 2 inches shorter than the height of my tanks. No harm in underestimating the amount of fuel in my opinion. DON'T USE POWER TOOLS near your fuel tanks. The spark from your tools coupled with fuel vapors can cause very bad things to happen.

    Replacing the bilge pumps was pretty easy. Just take out the original pump. Amazingly, one of the original pumps still worked well so I left it in. The other I took out, you may have to cut and splice new connectors or the new bilge pump wiring directly. So have a good system of keeping track of the wires. Luckily, Gary had the original manual with the wiring diagrams and the color codes. The manual was for all 300 series Comanche/Apache packages, if anyone is interested PM me, or I can post it here later. I still had to tag the wires, as some of them were either very dirty or the colors had faded.

    The livewell pump is a similar deal. If you know how to crimp or solder correctly, this is child's play. The only difficult part was detaching and reattaching the plumbing. Ranger really had a tight, solid system so some force was needed. I installed a Atwood tsunami 800 gph bilge pump and an atwood 800 gph livewell pump





    Trim/Tilt

    Trim/tilt was not working because of a leaky trim seal. Removal of the trim caps required a special yamaha wrench head that cost at least $60 dollars. I decided to try and use an adjustable pin wrench. Then I figured, why don't I just try tightening them first, as the o rings looked okay. I tightened them with my pin wrench and it fixed the issue, i just added more trim fluid. This is NOT the recommended way obviously, as pin wrenches can damage the cap holes, but I was loathe to pay 60+ dollars for a tool I would rarely use. The caps have held for 2 years thus far so obviously it worked out. The fill hole is above the starboard cylinder, you can see the bolt plug in the picture. Each cap has 4 pins that the yamaha tool or pin wrench attaches to.




    Motor (Yamaha Pro V 150)


    The motor had a couple of issues, the first being it would not turn off. How yamaha motors work is that there is a white wire that when grounded kills the motor. This is how the ignition and the kill switch works. Most wires route to a CDI assembly that you can't buy new anymore but can find used. They run anywhere from 300-900 dollars. Part number 6G5-85540-12-00

    Attachment 357941

    The fact that both my ignition and kill switch couldn't turn off the engine told me it wasn't a switch issue, so it was either wiring or the cdi unit. According to the mechanic it was both. I had the mechanic replace the cdi unit for $500 total, parts and labor, which was a pretty good deal.

    Now that the motor had it's basic functions back, there were still a few things that needed to be done. The previous owner f'd up the timing and carb adjustment, so the engine would sneeze or drop revs during idle. I sourced a Yamaha service manual and was able to adjust the timing myself. There are a few guides on how to do so in this forum, so I won't go over that. That subject is entire long form post itself. Here is a good one:

    http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=826681

    PM me for the service manual. It covers various high hp yamaha outboards around 1991 time frame, and it was applicable to my motor

    With the timing adjusted, the motor was still a little rough, so I had to clean the carbs. There are a plethora of guides on how to clean outboard carbs, so I won't go over that. The service manual also helps a lot. It's really not that hard, and anyone with a mechanical thumb can do so. Carb repair kits run around $150 for this motor. The hardest and most important thing to do is to adjust the float properly. That being said, I didn't quite get it right myself. A year later, I had the mechanic do it again, and he said I was very very close to getting it exactly right.

    The last thing I needed to fix was electric choke switch. I was able to take off the electric choke solenoid (part 6K1-82574-00-00) and verify it was working. That meant either the toggle switch or a wire was busted. A quick check lead to the conclusion that the wire was busted, so I had to bypass the wire into the motor, as the original wire was in a wrapped harness that wasn't worth the trouble to get out



    The green wire is the new bypass wire for the choke. The white wire is the bypass wire for the kill engine. I wrapped the wiring in a nylon cable sleeve for looks and protection.

    With the cdi replaced, carbs rebuilt, choke switch working, I had an engine I could use. I was fortunate, the mechanic told me I had a solid engine (as he obviously ran it to test his fixes). Every 6 months I checked compression and it would stay tight at around 110 psi for all cylinders, with maybe 1-2 psi variation on one. I also replaced the spark plugs, water impeller, gear oil. On my second trip, on the Cali Delta, my prop spun out, so I replaced it with a 23 pitch Turbo Lightning.



    Here's the motor running on a flush bag, still chugging after all these years:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UilReerLGH8


    Part 2 coming up......
    Last edited by th365thli; 03-27-2019 at 12:26 AM.

  2. Lead sled driver 11pounder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Broken Arrow Oklahoma
    Posts
    11,371
    #2
    Nice write up, I can't wait to see part 2.

  3. Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Greenville NC
    Posts
    955
    #3
    Wiring and Dash

    Earlier I had said the wiring was all shot and that's why some switches weren't working. That turned out to be not true fortunately. The real culprit was the fuse box. Once I replaced most of the fuses, to my surprise, all the switches worked. And when I eventually ran the boat, all the gauges worked (even the speedometer still worked!), though the original fuel gauge had some faulty connection and required some "finagling". This is a huge testament to Ranger build quality 30 years ago. To my eyes, all of the wiring was original with the proper color codes. I am still astounded that after 30 years, 5 years in the elements, the wiring was still intact.



    Even though the original switches and gauges worked, I wanted to go the extra mile. I wanted to have a modern switch panel, and gauges with better lighting and capability. I also wanted a voltmeter and a battery level gauge for my crank and trolling motor batteries. So I ordered a large piece of ABS plastic and cut it, using the original dash as a template. I had to take a hole saw and cut new holes for the additional gauges. Of course, I had to rewire the entire console which took the most time. However, I believe the end result was worth it. In the pictures you'll see the original dash, with my Garmin fish finder that I replaced with a Humminbird Helix 9. The original dash had a very old Lowrance bluewater pro and an Eagle temperature reader, as well as the old switches and the old livewell timer.



    The pictures below show the new dash, with new fuel gauges, switch panel, new GPS speedometer taking the place of the Lowrance Bluewater. I also added a new Flow-rite pro timer switch system, and two battery indicators for the crank and trolling motor batteries. The second indicator is above the switch panel next to the flow rite and is not in the pictures because I installed it a bit later. Pictures will be updated later. The switch panel has 8 switches with sticker labels and red lights. It also has a voltage meter, phone charger, and cigarette lighter. I did not like the way Ranger handled the fuel gauges. The original system had one fuel gauge and a switch that let you select which fuel tank to read. I thought that was a little fussy and I replaced the original fuel gauge with two more modern gauges that read both tanks.









    Switch panel:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Attachment 357951


    Carpeting and Casting Deck

    I actually recarpeted the boat twice, so the pictures will be a little confusing. The first time I used a teal color that looked a lot better online. I also tried to carpet by piece/template, which turned out mess. I used a multi tool and angle grinder with a wire brush. I used Roberts 6700 indoor/outdoor adhesive. For the lids I used 3m 77 adhesive spray. After a year, I decided to rebuild the casting deck and recarpet. I stripped using the same methods and used the same glue. This time however, I didn't cut the carpet in the exact template. I cut an oversized piece and glued it to the boat. Then I used a utility knife and traced the edges. The result was MUCH cleaner and looked more professional. During this time I also installed a recessed trolling motor tray.









    For the original casting deck, I used 2x4s which I had to shave down as they were too wide. The result was an even surface for the lids, causing creaking. The lids took up the entirety of the casting deck and it just didn't look very good.



    Last edited by th365thli; 03-26-2019 at 07:46 PM.

  4. Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Greenville NC
    Posts
    955
    #4
    Carpeting and Casting Deck cont.

    The second time around I used 2x3s. Coupled with .703 plywood it matched the front deck height perfectly. I used corner braces this time around, and I cut a piece of plywood as the deck, with holes for the lids. I sealed everything with kilz sealer. Carpet was laid over and cut with a utility knife to size, then stapled to the frame.













    I added whitecap brand latches and gas struts. Much more pleased with the results this time.

    Latches:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Struts:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I think we can all say grey looks a lot better than the teal.
    Last edited by th365thli; 03-26-2019 at 07:48 PM.

  5. Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Greenville NC
    Posts
    955
    #5
    Bow and Trolling Motor

    I went all out and installed a 80lb Ultrex with I Pilot. I also got a Humminbird Helix 9 Mega DI for the front, and a Helix 9 Mega SI for the back. Lot of my friends made fun of me for putting an Ultrex on a $2000 boat. But is it really that stupid? Going back to the question of what makes a boat. We already established it's the motor and the hull. I would argue the next most important thing is the trolling motor. That's what you use constantly on the water. A good/bad trolling motor is critical to bass fishing on a boat in my opinion. After using my system for 2 years, I am absolutely sure of my opinion. I've seen large boats blown around in the wind struggling to maintain position which is critical to fishing offshore structure. Anyone can maintain position with a close shoreline reference, but it's a different story offshore. With the Ultrex, I've pulled bass left and right off of rocks and ledges in the wind while next to me big boats come up empty handed, because they could not maintain position. The Helix fish finders only enhance the experience. I was able to mark fish in 30+ feet of water with clarity in Lake Berryessa, and side scanning is invaluable when chasing schools and finding offshore structure.



    I use zipties to secure the transducer cables to the shaft. A lot of people say zipties can damage the cable. All I can say is that this system has been working for me for two years.



    This is the most recent picture of my front set up. The recessed tray is very comfortable, and the deck-it fish finder stand is rock solid. The TH Marine troll jacket really completes the picture and gives the front a nice tidy look.


  6. Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Greenville NC
    Posts
    955
    #6
    Seats and Pedestals

    I mentioned that the middle seat was completely rotten and the other seats were on their way. I completely took out the middle seat but I kept the drivers and passengers seat for a year. After a year, I decided to replace them with seats from bassboatseats.com. The original pedestals were also garbage. Time and rust had rendered them useless. Fortunately, I was able to find replacement spring lock pedestals from springfield.





    The part numbers are 1642008 for the long pedestal and and 1642005 for the short pedestal.





    The seats were not a perfect fit. These older rangers have under seat storage. Luckily, I was able to completely salvage the platform under the original seats. I had to drill holes to attach it to the bottom of the new seats. I wouldn't say it's 100 perfect but it works really well. The only downside is that I lose the under seat storage. If anyone has bright ideas I'm all ears. Otherwise this is the system I'm going with.

  7. Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Raleigh NC
    Posts
    1,692
    #7
    Nice work!
    Russell Winneberger
    2002 Stratos 20 XL
    ColorVision Painting

  8. Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Greenville NC
    Posts
    955
    #8
    Structural fixes and alterations

    The biggest downside in these older Rangers are the rod lockers. Back in the day rods were mostly under 7 feet long. However, with a little bit of determination and a hole saw and an extension, you can drill the front of the rod locker to allow longer rods to fit. That is what I did.





    I'm able to 20 rods. I have actually not maxed out the capacity yet, but it definitely is enough capacity for me.

    The rubrail was in okay condition, but the rope insert was missing in chunks and worn. I took off the entire rubrail and retightned the top cap screws, replacing any that were broken or bent. After wiping the area down, I replaced the rubrail and inserted new rope. I also took 3m 4200 and sealed the underside of the rub rail touching the hull all the way around. I didn't have any issue with water intrusion, but I figured this was a good security measure to take. I recommend it especially on the back half of boats as they contact the water more frequently.



    Really need to replace the CF numbers and tags.......

    The bow eye needed some fixing. It was loose and the boat had some chips around the edges. I replaced the entire bow eye and backing plate. The wood backing inside the boat had gotten soft with rot, so I scooped out it out. It left an indentation where the backing plate was supposed to go inside the hull. I took fiberglass cloth and resin and filled it as much as I can. After it set, I redrilled the holes, then, I cut a block of wood and drilled holes in it. Using the block of wood as extra backing I was able to secure the bow eye tight. Finally, I used silicone around the edges of the bow eye. This eliminated any looseness and leakage.



    The previous owner had drilled holes in the transom for various accessories.......which I was not a fan of. The first go around I didn't remove all of the original accessories like the speedometer reader and the transducers, even though I didn't use them. I used a syringe and marinetex to plug up the holes. A year later, I wanted to strip the transom of everything except for my accessories. This time I used stainless steel screws and 3m 5200. I'm not gonna pretend it looks super clean, but all I cared about was effectiveness and durability. I think I achieved both. I'm a big fan of stern savers and I utilized two to cover up clusters of holes and to attach my side scan transducer.





    Luckily, the previous screw holes did not compromise the transom. Extracting the old screws I did see any wetness or signs of rot. Multiple hammer tests confirmed the fact.

    Attached a keelguard. Used silicone to seal the front

    Last edited by th365thli; 03-26-2019 at 09:51 PM.

  9. Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Greenville NC
    Posts
    955
    #9
    Miscellaneous

    Minn Kota 3 bank, 10 amp per bank charger



    Replaced stanchion wiring bases.



    Added a hot foot and pro trim switch



    The hot foot was pretty easy to install, I just needed a 2 foot longer throttle cable.

    Wherever I found bundles of wires I tried to wrap them in nylon cable sleeves. This served both to protect the wires and to clean up the look

    Last edited by th365thli; 03-26-2019 at 09:50 PM.

  10. Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Greenville NC
    Posts
    955
    #10
    What's left?

    This about sums up all the work done in the past two years. There are still things to be done. I wet sanded it a year ago, but I think I can do a better job. I want to try pro-tec products.

    There are some spider cracks in the gelcoat around the top cap at the rub rail. This isn't surprising to me, as that area gets bumped against docks frequently. It doesn't affect structural integrity, so I'm not sure if it's worth the effort.



    The right side trailer fender is torn. A quick fix is drilling holes and zipties, but it would be nice to do a fiberglass repair. Again, does not affect safety functionality of the trailer. The trailer also could use some detailing, but again, not sure how much of that is necessary.



    Needs some new carpet too...

    At some point I have to measure money/effort and diminishing returns. I am proud so far of how the boat is turning out. As far as I'm concerned, all the functional aspects are taken care of. Anything in the future would be cosmetic and fixing gelcoat defects.





    Here is a culmination of all the efforts, an 8+ lber and a new pb, caught September of last year. (Notice the old teal carpet....yuck) The sunlight does make the gelcoat look nicer :)

    Last edited by th365thli; 03-26-2019 at 11:16 PM.

  11. Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Floyd's Knobs, IN
    Posts
    27
    #11
    Nice work man, I say if you have the time and ability then why not resurrect one? looked like a good platform and im sure you could get your money back on materials at least on resale.

  12. Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Greenville NC
    Posts
    955
    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Hoosierquest View Post
    Nice work man, I say if you have the time and ability then why not resurrect one? looked like a good platform and im sure you could get your money back on materials at least on resale.
    Are you referring to the cosmetic work I'm talking about? Slightly confused by your question, I already put a ton of effort/money into the functional fixes, not sure if the cosmetic will bring that much more return, but maybe i'm wrong. Haven't even thought about selling honestly, the boat does everything I want.
    Last edited by th365thli; 03-26-2019 at 11:28 PM.

  13. Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Hillsboro, NH
    Posts
    3,067
    #13
    Nice results!

    1990 Ranger 362V Yamaha Pro-V 150
    Old Town Predator MinnKota

  14. Lead sled driver 11pounder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Broken Arrow Oklahoma
    Posts
    11,371
    #14
    She is sharp. Congrats man on bringing another classic back from the brink of death.

  15. Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Ridgeland ,Mississippi
    Posts
    70
    #15
    I like the write-up and parts listing. I need to post one myself as I am doing the same pretty much.
    In search of a double digit MONSTER!!!

  16. Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Highland, Illinois
    Posts
    2,738
    #16
    Very nice !

  17. New England Forum Moderator twitch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    New Bedford, MA
    Posts
    14,936
    #17
    Great job
    1990 374V Ranger Still kickin' bass after all these years

  18. Member CastingCall's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    5,058
    #18
    Looks great!
    For the seat storage, are the backs mounted separately from the bases?
    When I went from a bench with underseat storage, to separate bucket seats, I mounted the seat bases to carpeted boards that were hinged... which necessitated moving the base forward slightly and the back up slightly to allow the base to tilt without interference.

    Details here: http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=452834


    If you needed to mount the bases and backs together, I've got the original aluminum supports from my seats that I removed to separate the two. Then the entire seat could flip forward as one piece.

  19. Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Akron, OH
    Posts
    247
    #19
    A great post. Very well done and good job on the boat.
    1999 Triton Tr-18
    1999 Johnson 150 (J150PLEE)
    Abu Garcia for life

  20. Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    North Jersey
    Posts
    220
    #20
    Awesome, I remembered your original thread when you did have teal carpet. I remembered you were also on some ort of budget to get this boat useable... Guess that went out the window after 2 years.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast