No excuses--tried to do a tranny dump on my (new to me) 2004 suburban and 'boogered' up the drain plug head (15mm)--need ideas on how to remove/replace it--even thought about dumping the pan si I can weld a handle onto the plug's hex head--any simpler ideas?
A tool such as this should work
https://www.harborfreight.com/screw-extractor-set-12-pc-61981.html
Yup, good Ole easy out, used one too many times myself.
Try tapping a 9/16 or a 14mm socket on with a hammer (light taps) try 6 point and /or 12 point. Did you try a vice grip?
Not sure how much of the head is left but I have used a good old fashioned pipe wrench to grab it and it worked well.
I have used a Dremel to cut a slot for a large flat head screwdriver to fit.
Just realized you are talking about the drain plug, not a gasket screw. one of these universal sockets might grab it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-S...-/232255445316
I have also had success with a universal spanner wrench to grab a flat side on a stripped hex bolt.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2PC-SnapN-G...AAAOSwUmtbI3Iw
Or, if you have a mig handy, weld a nut to the drain plug. Only putting a spot on the center hole of the nut let it cool for a second and use a socket to remove.
Vise or locking grips to take it off...Originally Posted by timfish
Then install this:
Fumoto Valve
https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/
Maple syrup... I put that sh*t on everything!
'09 Stratos 201 XL EVO DC | 250 Pro XS | Razor 4 25P | 6" JP | 10' Talons Gen 2 | 112# Ultrex | Lowrance C12 x 4 | AT | '16 RAM Rebel
If you have access to a welder, weld a bolt on it, double nut and remove it.
Use a pair of vise grips, you’ll need a large pair of channel locks to close them right enough. Smack them with a hammer. You won’t be able to pull them. You need the impact to break it lose. The instant torque is what does it. You’ll round it off even further by applying constant torque.
The other thing is to just drop the pan. They aren’t hard and the filter is the main concern anyway. That’s what will burn up a transmission. You o my need to change them every 85-100k so it won’t be like you’ll have to deal with it anytime soon.
See the previous owner always took it to quickie lube place for service,,,
And man,,,it seems as if EVERY filter/bolt etc they touched was applied with 1 million foot pounds
Some people can't figure out that tight is tight and too tight is broke. Had one of those places pull out the threads in an aluminum oil pan once on my wife's car.
If you cannot use the tool to remove the drain plug, don't worry about it. Just order a new one at Rock Auto for $61--AC Delco brand. Or, take your oil pan to the local auto salvage yard and pick up another cheap.
I concur a pipe wrench, vice grips, or a good old thick Bonney or older 6 point socket driven lightly onto it I guarantee will bring it out. If all fails as suggested an easy out (extractor) will remove it for certain.
I tried to take my drain plug out to change fluid and filter a few weeks ago. No dice...I think its welded to the pan. If you do a search on it you'll find that a lot of people can't get the plug out. I just dropped the pan. Once you get the pan off you'll see that even if you got the drain plug out that it wouldn't drain much fluid anyway due to its design.
VERY interesting!! Thanks
I assume that you have the 5.3 V8
https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/...modelId=550859
Yup, put them on all my vehicles... don't forget to buy the little plastic lock too.
Maple syrup... I put that sh*t on everything!
'09 Stratos 201 XL EVO DC | 250 Pro XS | Razor 4 25P | 6" JP | 10' Talons Gen 2 | 112# Ultrex | Lowrance C12 x 4 | AT | '16 RAM Rebel
mig weld a flat washer to whats left...……...weld a new nut to the flat washer then remove
------Co-founder of Post Derailment, LLC---------
I need that in my life.
Hammer and chisel ... a few knocks going lefty loosey and it’s off lol
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