06 Pro xs Lower unit problem.

[Facemelter]

1B372422

So, recently did a lower unit oil change as its been in my garage over the winter. Noticed a bit of discoloration / separation in the oil upon draining it which looked like water. Filled it back up and took it to the lake yesterday. Thought maybe condensation, I'll find out for sure.

Drained it at a friends house after I left the lake and got a color I did not want to see. To me, it looks like water since the color of the fluid has changed to a more lighter green. Or is this foamed fluid from running it? Someone with more knowledge on this than me can tell me.


I've already counted on it being water and am starting to get crap together to have this unit resealed. Of course this happens 1 week before I leave for Chickamauga.


60780235-e042-4684-9914-389c5eb07327.jpg

[Nova Kaw 650]

Yup, water.

[Facemelter]

Crap.

[SilverFox579]

Water intrusion with certainty.

[EuropeanAM]

Without a doubt- you have a leak.

[Facemelter]

So, I need opinions before one of two things happen. I spend money on a rebuild, or go get it and run the snot out of it.

They pressure tested it for awhile, like overnight. It held 12 pounds. They have been looking for some type of leak and cant find anything.

Do I spend the money anyway and have them reseal it, or go pick it up and giver hell?

Here is the time of events.

Last week Friday I replace the LU oil. Drain / Fill and vent screws had the old blue gaskets...

Noticed separated water upon draining. Replaced fluid and put two new yellow gaskets on it.

The next day Saturday, I hit the lake for about 4 hours. Leave lake and head straight to a buddies house to check for water. 30 minute drive.

Take lower screw out, nothing comes out until I crack the vent screw. This mint green shit comes out. Take boat home.

The next day Sunday. Take LU off motor and take drain screw out, its still this mint green color. How long does it normally take before this stuff separates?


Main question is, spend the money or run it? For me, its a good chunk of change as I have just paid a for my trip down south among other things that decided to take a bunch of my money.

[EuropeanAM]

Pressure testing should be done at a variety of pressures (example: 2, 6, 10, XX psi). For this gearcase, I would add 14.5 psi to the list, rotate all shafts, and check VERY carefully at the propshaft bore for leaks.

[Bob G.]

If you took to a dealer and they couldn't find the leak, take the lower unit somewhere else as there is a problem. Would you rather be somewhere on vacation and your lower unit takes has serious issue that would now be beyond a seal leaking?

Did you replace the lower unit fluid before winter?

[Facemelter]

Pressure testing should be done at a variety of pressures (example: 2, 6, 10, XX psi). For this gearcase, I would add 14.5 psi to the list, rotate all shafts, and check VERY carefully at the propshaft bore for leaks.

This process was done for two days.

I did not change the fluid before winter since the boat sits in my garage.

[EuropeanAM]

Andy- was ALL gear lube removed prior to pressure testing (drained completely)?

Answering your earlier question, it may take a considerable amount of time for small amounts of water to separate from High-Perf Gear Lube. High-Perf contains emulsifiers that helps keep water in suspension (up to a point). I've seen some that took weeks to separate.

[Savage]

The prop shaft seals don't look very good to me in your attached picture.

[bqtoot]

You ask about running it instead of fixing it (I understand your dilemma), but you have to weigh the cost fixing the problem vs. buying a new motor, vs. cost of your trip since you run the very likely risk of ruining your motor. Since gear case oil is designed to lubricate many moving parts and pieces, when water is part of the mix, all kinds of not so wonderful things can happen!

[Facemelter]

Got it fixed. Much gooder now.

I ended selling a good bit of my Bourbon to make it happen and my local place took good care of me. My dilemma came from me not seeing it sooner and ordering a Deans (expensive) tow-able travel cover for the boat.