Good Boat Stands

[BPenrod]

Engine stand bolted where the engine goes and an engine hoist with strap thru the bow eye

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They work for everything.

[Rick H]

I don't have major repairs to make and don't need to remove the motor. Just want to take it off the trailer and take care of a couple spots, that stumps have marred the hull or if I need to have the trailer worked on.

Just looking for some stands for side support and or stabilization once the trailer is pulled out.

[Chautauquanuy]

A buddy of mine had work done on his trailer. He went to a marina that had indoor rack storage. The marina stored his boat for him while the trailer was being worked on. He did this when most boats are out of storage so there was plenty of open racks. He didn't want to play around with stands.

[Rick H]

A buddy of mine had work done on his trailer. He went to a marina that had indoor rack storage. The marina stored his boat for him while the trailer was being worked on. He did this when most boats are out of storage so there was plenty of open racks. He didn't want to play around with stands.

I understand if your not comfortable with it then don't. I've got real 6 ton capacity each stands now just need a couple taller ones for the side just for a little extra stabilization will give me 5 contact points.

[Rick H]

Thanks for all the suggestions.

I got lucky and found a new Brownell MB3 Motor Boat Stand - 25" to 38" on Craigslist just listed 5 days ago about 40 miles away for about half base cost but he only had one and then was able to find one on amazon with free shipping for standard retail 113.

So it worked out in the long run but shipping is the biggest cost issue. One shipping quote was $175 buck for 2 165 @ stand each. Got lucky with free shipping.

[alli ss]

Be careful under there

[Lanierspook]

The stands support the boat, you still need blocking in at least in one location on keel.

[alli ss]

The stands support the boat, you still need blocking in at least in one location on keel.

I like to use 6x6 or 4x4 lumber under the jackplate with a big base like a jenga puzzle. Like with a car always have a backup catch

[g352nv]

Engine hoist and I welded up a stand for the front. It bolted to the eye of the boat.
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[Rick H]

The stands support the boat, you still need blocking in at least in one location on keel.

Yeap got that covered with the other three 6 ton stands.

[g352nv]

Yeap got that covered with the other three 6 ton stands.

The thing you want to make sure of is when you make the front stand it allows enough room for the tires to make it through the front. Thats why the rack I built it so wide.

[Rick H]

The thing you want to make sure of is when you make the front stand it allows enough room for the tires to make it through the front. Thats why the rack I built it so wide.

Got it! Nice job if I needed to refinish and strip it looks like a good way to go. Mine isn't bad just has a couple semi deep spots I want to deal with and want the option so if the trailer needs work I can take the boat off as is in the garage.

[g352nv]

Got it! Nice job if I needed to refinish and strip it looks like a good way to go. Mine isn't bad just has a couple semi deep spots I want to deal with and want the option so if the trailer needs work I can take the boat off as is in the garage.

[m.t.hands]

sorry for the delay, just had a lot going on, looks like you have found a solution though, but here is what my last personal one looked like though, not really that big of a deal on a bass boat, done a few bigger Pleasure boats with a different setup, that might make you a little nervous though
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[Babe Winkleworm]

The whole time I am reading this I am thinking. No Effin way I'd do this.

[Riccochet]

when I worked at a marine dealer we used solid concrete blocks stacked 2 wide alternating direction till it was close to the height of the rear upper chine. Slap a piece of 2x6 on top and drop the chines on to that by raising the front of the trailer. This will lift the stern of the boat off the trailer. Next, use a tall floor jack with a piece of wood, jacked all the way up, and drop a flat part of the keel on it. NOT on a curved part. This will essentially free the trailer under the boat. Pull the trailer out until you come to a cross member that the jack is blocking, now, place more concrete blocked behind the cross member with wood on top an drop the jack until the keel is resting on the concrete blocks, pull the trailer forward a couple feet and re-install the jack, remove the concrete blocks. Repeat until the trailer is completely removed. Then drop the keel on concrete blocks/wood. Just be sure NOT to drop it on a curved part of the keel or you're going to have a bad day.

Blocked countless boats in the yard and shop doing this.

Not a bass boat, but this is what you're going for.

[Rick H]

sorry for the delay, just had a lot going on, looks like you have found a solution though, but here is what my last personal one looked like though, not really that big of a deal on a bass boat, done a few bigger Pleasure boats with a different setup, that might make you a little nervous though
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That's close to what I'll be doing. Back is okay with 2 6 tons and a 4x4 then near the middle rear point with the 2 MB3'S as outriggers around the seating area, the front another 6 ton no wood but a lot of padded left over from the gator back install at all contact points. I'll have 5 contact points

The way your front wood is leaning back I wouldn't care for that. Tall block like that tend to move were a 4x4 doesn't tend to move when properly placed. Drove a sling wrecker for 14 years and worked with 4x4 and lifting daily. Today these flat bed guys don't have a clue.

[Collin C.]

This is what i did and it worked well for me. I used floor jacks to lift the rear and a come along to lift front then sat it down on the boards. I lowered the front down on the 4x4 just to keep it from swaying. The boards i cut the boards the at same angle as the bunks on the trailer. I ran it very low on fuel and took all but 1 battery out to save weight.

[Rick H]

This is what i did and it worked well for me. I used floor jacks to lift the rear and a come along to lift front then sat it down on the boards. I lowered the front down on the 4x4 just to keep it from swaying. The boards i cut the boards the at same angle as the bunks on the trailer. I ran it very low on fuel and took all but 1 battery out to save weight.

Nice but you put more trust in hydraulics than I do. I never store or depend in them even on the wrecker which have redundant systems to hold loads. Maybe I'm a little to careful but I'm still here. Other then that looks pretty good.