Thread: Auto bilge pump

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  1. #1
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    Auto bilge pump

    2014 520C - Partner partially open remote drain switch in bilge area while "taking a leak". Boat filled to point of seeing water coming up through cockpit drain. Auto bilge never came on. Both auto and 2nd bilge pumps work as I used both to pump out boat. Obviously something wrong w/ auto switch. Any idea what it might be?

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    #2
    The newer pumps are set up to sense for water every few minutes measuring pressure on impeller and turn on w/ 2" to 3"of water. The older pumps had float switches. There should be two power leads connected (brown and brown w/ stripe) w/ the solid brown being the auto power. Make sure this lead is connected to power. otherwise, do like all of us weekend wrenches and snap the unit loose and check for anything unusual and reinstall.
    2006 Ranger Z20 / 225HP Merc Pro XS

  3. Ranger Boats Moderator jc2bg's Avatar
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    #3
    The auto bilge pump also can be turned on manually at the dash, which would allow you to see at least if the pump works.
    John Clark — Findlay, Ohio

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    #4
    jc2bg, the op posted "Both auto and 2nd bilge pumps work" Not being critical, just an FYI.

  5. Ohio Fishing Reports Moderator omcforever's Avatar
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    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by jc2bg View Post
    The auto bilge pump also can be turned on manually at the dash, which would allow you to see at least if the pump works.
    I always flip the manual switch at the ramp to insure it comes on and check the pump and float after the trip during clean up...almost sunk a boat 1 mile from the ramp at 2 AM at Lake Murray SC a few years ago because I didnt check and it didnt work. I also carry a spare portable pump set up with hoses and battery clamps. Just me but once you see your tackle floating in the cock pit, you will always check it/service it.

    Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill !!

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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by omcforever View Post
    I always flip the manual switch at the ramp to insure it comes on and check the pump and float after the trip during clean up...almost sunk a boat 1 mile from the ramp at 2 AM at Lake Murray SC a few years ago because I didnt check and it didnt work. I also carry a spare portable pump set up with hoses and battery clamps. Just me but once you see your tackle floating in the cock pit, you will always check it/service it.
    The newer auto pumps don't have a traditional float switch which makes trouble-shooting them a little more challenging.
    2006 Ranger Z20 / 225HP Merc Pro XS

  7. Ranger Boats Moderator jc2bg's Avatar
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    #7
    Wow. I read his post twice and still missed that statement. I plead eye strain from watching too much basketball. Hope the OP finds a better solution.

    Quote Originally Posted by Zpilot View Post
    jc2bg, the op posted "Both auto and 2nd bilge pumps work" Not being critical, just an FYI.
    John Clark — Findlay, Ohio

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    #8
    Did a controlled test today and intentionally let water in. Auto pump did not come on. Ran both pumps to pump out. When I went to manually turn off auto pump panel light blinked. Blinking auto pump light did go off after I turned master switch off of course, waited a couple minutes, turned master switch on, activated panel, turned auto pump on and off manually without incident. So was the original blinking light when trying to turn off manual showing a short?

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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by bbbill View Post
    Did a controlled test today and intentionally let water in. Auto pump did not come on. Ran both pumps to pump out. When I went to manually turn off auto pump panel light blinked. Blinking auto pump light did go off after I turned master switch off of course, waited a couple minutes, turned master switch on, activated panel, turned auto pump on and off manually without incident. So was the original blinking light when trying to turn off manual showing a short?
    Looks like you do have a short in the auto circuit. Try unplugging at the pump connection, reset breaker and if you have a multi-meter check for power on the solid brown wire plug. If you're good to there (pump) the issue is in the internal auto switch. I assume you don't have a float switch? If you do check power to float switch and then pick up float and check for power to pump. Your manual has directions for resetting breaker.
    2006 Ranger Z20 / 225HP Merc Pro XS

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    #10
    Just replaced my pump as the AUTO feature wasn't working. The pump would run in manual mode just not auto. The pump and float switch are sealed so there isn't a way to repair it. I found a direct replacement on Amazon for $75 and removed maybe 6 inches of wire with the electrical connector/plug from the old pump so it would connect to the Ranger wiring harness. I left the old pump base/strainer in the bilge and snapped the new pump directly onto it. I also cleaned the bilge area with some citrus based degreaser and a toilet brush to remove the gunk that had accumulated. Looks good, smells good, and everything works as it should.
    Phillip "Wade" Norris
    2015 Ranger Z520C
    250 Merc Optimax Pro XS (S# 2B113454)
    25P Fury - 4 blade all holes open


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    #11
    Sorry, should have told you that i removed the old pump and tested it in a 5 gallon bucket to confirm the float switch was bad.
    Phillip "Wade" Norris
    2015 Ranger Z520C
    250 Merc Optimax Pro XS (S# 2B113454)
    25P Fury - 4 blade all holes open


  12. Ohio Fishing Reports Moderator omcforever's Avatar
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by ericm View Post
    The newer auto pumps don't have a traditional float switch which makes trouble-shooting them a little more challenging.
    I know but threw that in there as a lot still have the older set ups....(and just pressing the point to check it always no matter what type.)

    Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill !!

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    #13
    Tidewater, ant way you could post the link to that Amazon pump you found?

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    #14
    bbbill - I found a Rule (RM750A) on Amazon that was a direct replacement for my 2015 Z520C.
    Phillip "Wade" Norris
    2015 Ranger Z520C
    250 Merc Optimax Pro XS (S# 2B113454)
    25P Fury - 4 blade all holes open


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    #15
    Thanks Wade

  16. mikesxpress
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    #16
    Just went thru this with a guy on his winter to do list items as he was replacing pumps. May help someone else?

    Engineering notes:
    1. A 750 GPH pump in the bilge that has to lift the water (in a 7/8" ID hose) more than 12" loses 15% of it's rated capacity. 14-18" lift looses 25%. Any bends (that don't crease the hose) will reduce the flow another 10%+.
    2. Adding a check valve reduces the GPH by 13%.
    3. Plumbing two 750 GPH pumps into one 3/4" discharge hose is not recommended. Even with a Y fitting and not accounting for the lift reduction the maximum a 3/4" hose can attain is 1100 GPH. Enter in the two pumps discharge flow meeting at the Y can cause cavitation of both pumps. *Yep. A few older hulls came like this.

    While most OEM'S install 750 GPH bilge/livewell pumps, the average lift from the bilge to the discharge degrades them to 562 GPH.
    Adequate?
    Maybe, but maybe not?

    Suggested alterations:
    Upgrade fuses to 6 amps for both the automatic bilge and manual bilge.
    Install Johnson Controls 1000 GPH automatic (sensor controlled not float switch) bilge pump and Johnson Controls 1000 GPH manual bilge pump on separate 3/4" hoses. No check valves and large radius turns in the hose routing. With the average degradation of lift these pumps they will give you the 750 GPH you thought you had previously. Spearing a wave or a rogue back deck wash can fill a boat in a hurry. You want maximum pumping happening then. Best to have the max pumps in place and the upgrade cost is minimal over the 750's.

    *These 1000 GPH pumps will draw more amps. On/off use such as rain water pump out is not an issue but if you take a huge volume requiring extensive pump time keep the engine running.
    Side note: Any other 12VDC pumps rated over 1100 GPH will require 1 1/8" inside diameter hose.




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    #17
    Damn, That`s one clean bilge!

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    #18
    drop a bar of soap into the bilge keeps it clean and smells good too I use irish spring

  19. mikesxpress
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    #19
    It stays clean. I don't work on anything that's nasty. Takes twice as long and is a general PIA if it's all gunked up. Super Clean from Ya'll-Mart. 2.5 gallon purple jug. Cleans everything. Cup in the bilge with some water. Drive around and flush out.