Dianoses?

[KutTail71]

1st the motor is an 02 Evinrude 225HO Ficht model # E225FPLSNF. Here are the problems. Motor will crank up after a full charge, but after one run motor will not start and acts like dead battery. Cranks but starts putter out. I've eliminated starter, wiring harness, anything on such as graphs, etc. Tried 3 different batteries from a 27DC which is what I had on it originally. Upgraded to a Duracell 31, ran fine for a while but then started having this issue. Went back to a 27DC, same. Tried a 29DC because previous owner said that's what he ran, even tried the 31 and same. It's in the shop right now. Tach works as it should and so do the rest of the gauges. What could it possibly be? I do have a complete 03 motor so part is not an issue. If you're going to say dump it due to being a Ficht move on. Thanks

[CatFan]

First thing to check would be charging system output while the outboard is running.

[KutTail71]

First thing to check would be charging system output while the outboard is running.

I hooked it up my laptop and it showed 14 volts at least that's what I thought I saw. My graph showed 12+ while running.

[CatFan]

I'd measure with a meter at the battery terminals. It should measure more than 12V on the graph unless the wiring is bad.

[KutTail71]

Wiring for the graphs is not that old. They are tied into a fuse panel ran with 10ga wire to the battery with a switch.

[Danrude]

Check the big blue capacitor for proper operation, also the PDP of that time frame were subject to cold solder joints which can cause symptoms of no start. It may be that the 40V that drives the injectors is not sufficient!

[KutTail71]

I'll see what the shop finds. At least I have spare parts.

[KutTail71]

Well the shop said it's charging and they had no issues. Explained the times it would not start. Supposed to try a few more things to see if they can get it to act up. Shop mentioned possibly the battery cables or connections between the solenoid and starter. Is there a way to test the cables? I cleaned the connections all up at the battery, checked to make sure everything was tight. I have bypassed the wiring harness so it's not that.

[DaleH]

Do a resistance check on the battery cables and even the battery switch. Went through similar w/ a thristy/loved oil 225hp carb’d OMC. Added new heavier cables & a new battery switch - to same batteries - and it was flawless starting for the next 5+ years I had it.

Corrosikn builds up resistance & heat, which makes it worse ... might be why she starts fine cold then acts up after some use.

[KutTail71]

Thanks. Will give that a whirl once I get it back.

[FTMS]

This might be a long shot but it is a cheap one. Behind the motor fuse box there is a 20 amp inline fuse, replace it. It controls the fuel pump. I had mine crack. You could not see the crack or even test it with a meter unless you twisted the fuse. When mine went it would run fine then die then run good or hit and miss, it was crazy.

[KutTail71]

This might be a long shot but it is a cheap one. Behind the motor fuse box there is a 20 amp inline fuse, replace it. It controls the fuel pump. I had mine crack. You could not see the crack or even test it with a meter unless you twisted the fuse. When mine went it would run fine then die then run good or hit and miss, it was crazy.

It's not shutting off. on it's own It acts like the battery is going out after shutting it down and restarting.

[KutTail71]

Do a resistance check on the battery cables and even the battery switch. Went through similar w/ a thristy/loved oil 225hp carb’d OMC. Added new heavier cables & a new battery switch - to same batteries - and it was flawless starting for the next 5+ years I had it.

Corrosikn builds up resistance & heat, which makes it worse ... might be why she starts fine cold then acts up after some use.

What gauge did you go up to?