I think I am using my unit backwards.. In this pick. Which way would the beam be shooting? Towards the point of the trolling motor or towards the prop? I thought the flat part on the bottom of the ducer was where the beam was coming from. I have mine on an independent shaft that I can turn. the whole time I thought the side of the trans that had the wire going in was the back of it...Originally Posted by LWINCHESTER2
It is pointing to the nose, away from prop , the same as directional arrow on tm
There are a bunch of beams all over the place. That's how on one screen at any point in time you can see something near the surface and also something near the bottom. It is not one beam. There are three arrays. Each array has multiple elements. The technology is not like 2d transducers. It's multi-beam phased array technology. This allows the direction of the beams to be electronically steered by the software. Elements may be physically pointed in one direction but the beams steered to go in other directions. The steering of the beams is accomplished by minute differences in the timing of the firing of multiple elements. The significance of all that is that it has to be mounted according to the installation directions for all this to work.
I don't know which pic you are referring to. Go back to my earlier post that shows port and starboard mounting for Forward. That's how it should be "pointed".
My wife asks if I'm going to fish every day. I can't fish every day. Some days I might be sick.
Yep, i was looking backwards and fishing forwards. I didn't have the installation instructions because I bought a floor model. I watched a youtube video and I reckon I just missed that part. Looking at the trans I assumed that the two angles were facing forwards. It doesn't matter that I have it backwards because its on a rotating shaft, but the angle was way off because I have it reversed. I basically had it in front view facing down and back instead of forward. No wonder I could only see out 20' ft or so. Thanks guys!
Resetting sonar defaults fixed the problem. I didn't think so at first because when trying to find the problem i left the transducer in the wrong spot. Now when i move the transducer to the wrong spot i can get a 10% void, nothing like I had before.
When I return it to the correct spot, everything works great. .
Yea, I am a compete idiot. Had the transducer mounted wrong. Everything good but there seems to bee a lot of static that I cannot get rid of. Even when the livescope is the only thing powered up. Any suggestions?
Here are some suggestions I just emailed to Charlie. It has worked for me.
Take some old spark plugs or something similar and make two clusters of three. Suspend them under a chlorox jug at different depths. The purpose of this is to know the targets you are looking at are the ones you put there. You can see the jug so you'll always know where they are. Try different ranges. Start with TVG OFF, Trails OFF, Noise Reject OFF, Gain on 50. Get back from the jug 30-40 ft. Adjust the Gain until you can see the targets. Probably have to turn it up some. Now try to clean up the screen. Try Noise Reject first. Try Low and Medium. I don't like to use High but when I'm in 100 FOW and have the gain run up sometimes I have to. For now, don't use High. Now adjust the TVG. I don't know that the order matters so you could do the TVG first and then the Noise Rejection.
Now you may want to turn the Color Gain up to say 70. Just try it and see if you like it. I'm usually in deep water looking 70-90 ft away and I like to turn it up, but if you can't clean up your screen it may not be worth anything to you.
My wife asks if I'm going to fish every day. I can't fish every day. Some days I might be sick.
Thanks LWINCHESTER I will try this once I get back to the lake this weekend
On second thought, I think I'll revise my suggestion a bit.
1. Adjust Gain to see the targets. Start with Auto Medium and Auto High. Using Auto is preferable to manual but you may have to use the manual setting
2. Adjust TVG to get rid of rays.
3. Then use Noise Reject settings for clean up whole screen.
My wife asks if I'm going to fish every day. I can't fish every day. Some days I might be sick.
Update...5-6 weeks was incorrect I guess. Got new one within a week. Bench tested it...all good. No rays. Point is that it seems some come out good, others not so much.
will have to post a couple pics as I got my unit out for the first time the other day . I had what cactusflyr described as “artifact” on the screen or some tree like image coming up from the bottom going away from me.
Looking to see if there are any settings to try but sounds like a new unit might be the only way to get it fixed ?
I will get that if I have the gain to high, I will turn it up and down as need to keep my screen fairly clear.
here are a couple of screenshots of what I am talking about , you can see it in every shot. I did start with the gain around 71 and backed down to 68.
Have to say the clarity in the screenshots does not look as good to me as when viewing the unit.
I did manage to get a better image clarity by reducing the view out to only30- 40 feet front and setting the unit to manual depth to see more water column.
The third picture is from a dock that has a nice drop off coming up to the front of it , looks like a couple fish there to me .
For the life of me I have no idea what the heck that thing is in the last picture, it was located on a rocky point . ( maybe proof of Nessie ? )
Last edited by flatstick; 04-21-2019 at 09:32 AM.
I think you just need to back the gain off a little to get rid of the clutter. I have not been on dirty water but I understand it can create some clutter too. When I was vertical fishing/drop shot, I simply turned the gain up or down till I was happy with what I had. To low and I would have clear screen but would not see my bait. Happy medium was pretty easy to obtain. I also found that for the way I was fishing in that situation, the blue screen worked better for me. NOT always the case though.
Thanks for your thoughts on the images.
The lake is pretty clear but as you said I can try backing off on the gain some.
Also saw another post about using another setting called TVG in addition to the nois rejection and adjust gain from there .
I have not looked at the TVG setting yet to clean up the artifacts as it seems Garmin is calling them.
Here are some suggestion from Garmin also ( kind of what everybody on here suggests )
https://support.garmin.com/en-SG/?fa...DT93aqHfX7iKQ7
Flatstick,
I fish brackish rivers and your screen looks great. As far as gain levels, on manual in less than 20’ of water I run <50 on gain and don’t miss a fish. I will be dialing it in using the method described by Winchester. Forward 45-50’.
Not sure how the gain power curve is set up but if it’s going to work in 100’ of water, a gain <50 or even 40 would seem to make sense in < 25’ of water.
What you are saying makes a lot of sense. liked the picture other than the rays shooing up for the bottom .
Like you said I will try working on dialing in the settings .
Was able to clearly see a 3 inch jig on the screen falling to 25 feet of water and watch fish come to check it out.
I think your images may be too clean. I like some clutter, then I'm sure I'm seeing all there is to see. I don't think the Livescope gives the prettiest picture but nothing else comes close to showing you fish swimming live!
Reply With Quote
