Trying to swap out my prop on my ultrex but the prop wont come off. Ive tried everything i can think of to get it off..Im sure the pin got twisted. Any tricks on getting it off???
Trying to swap out my prop on my ultrex but the prop wont come off. Ive tried everything i can think of to get it off..Im sure the pin got twisted. Any tricks on getting it off???
Get a new pin, a prop, and a hacksaw.
Call Minn Kota before you get all cave man! That motor shaft will bend. Bob
I was thinking of cutting it off was going to be solution
2017 Phoenix 819
2016 200ProXS, s/n 2B359849, Mod 1200P73BD
Bradrodfish, That was a caution. Your description sounded like it could be very violent. I have seen bent shafts on trolling motors. Some people are not as gentle as others. Bob
Tap on it rather than beat on it would have scared me less
Last edited by bobcoy; 03-11-2019 at 11:06 AM.
Go to Harbor Freight and get a GEAR PULLER. It will have three legs that "Hook" over the back side of the blade and a center bolt that goes over the prop shaft. Turn the bolt by 1/4 turns and tap the end after each turn. You may have to drill a hole in the blade to get the hook in, but it will come off without damaging the prop shaft.
Ranger Boats / Mercury Motors
G Loomis Rods / Shimano Reels
Raymarine / MinnKota Ultrex
Garmin / Live Scope Plus
Pepper Jigs / Robo Worms
Troll Bridge / V-T2 Vents
If you drill holes in the blade, it's ruined anyhow. The threads on the end of the prop shaft are fine, they should stick out past the surface of the prop, and a gear puller could slip and damage them. Just bite the bullet, save yourself a trip to the store. Cut it off carefully if moderate non-destructive methods fail.
If you use a puller, install a steel nut flush with the end of the shaft to protect the threads.
I pulled one off with a cheap gear puller when I bent the shear pin so bad it wouldn’t come off. Replaced the prop and shear pin and was good to go. I loosened up the nut on the shaft but left it on to push against.
On those that are stuck, I use a ball peen hammer and hit, not tap, the blades from the back side. Most of the times when it's stuck that bad, the shear pin has cut into the prop and needs a new prop anyway and you'll have to cut the shear pin to get it out, so if you do break a blade on a bad prop, no biggee. I've done this for years and have not bent a prop shaft doing it. The puller idea doesn't work because the prop fits so close to the housing there is not place to put the puller jaws.
John
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I have to yield to the experts. Perhaps I put too much meaning to the words. My perception of BEAT- Hit- and tap are all different. A mechanic knows how hard to do it. Some others not so much. Bob
Those have a specific meaning to mechanics. We use terms like "a RCH", and "two white knuckles and a grunt". If you hit something you need a BFH. If you tap it you use a screwdriver. Speaking of screwdrivers, we used to have a saying, "Don't stir your coffee with a screwdriver, use a pen. You have to wipe a screwdriver off".
Now BEAT is Greek to me.
I am familiar with all those terms. Not auto mechanic but have been working mechanical stuff since the 60's, a couple of those can be a bit embarrasing if a kid or woman asks for an explanation. Bob
I have the same problem with a stuck prop. Hitting the blades hasn’t worked. I hate to sound stupid but I guess it comes naturally anyhow...where/how is the best place to cut to get it off?
hanks
Just to the outside of the shaft. Try to cut as straight as possible and when you get about a 1/2 inch from the motor housing stop and use a chisel to open the cut. It is a little time consuming but it is best to take your time so as to not damage the prop shaft of the motor housing.